ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 I have a 94 cutlass supreme with a 3100 with around 90k and i am beginning to get little green spots on the valve cover oil cap... so i was thinking about doing the LIM gaskets. How hard is it? what all do i need? and should i even bother?? Thanks, Drew Quote
Crazy K Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 yeah need to bother!!! in fact... I would not run the car any further until is is fixed. anyone got a tutorial? a basic haynes manual or equivalant should give you the procedure, btw. Quote
ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 alright, well how long do you think it takes? I need this car up and running... Quote
rudefyet Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 It may take awhile the first time, since you'll prolly hit a few tough spots....it's not a bad job though, if you start with all the tools you need, I'd say 2 hours...no longer then a day though (I took 3 days, but i'm lazy) Quote
ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 im going to run it up to the mechanic that has done all the work on it on friday... but i am not going to drive it till then.... Quote
Crazy K Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 With my experience... probably 3-5 hours.... alot longer if you have to take baby steps... depending if I'm shivering or not. I did my first one under a plastic tarp draped over the front of a car in a snowstorm with an extension cord and a blow dryer. :shock: It worked fine until my brother totaled the car 12,000 miles later. keep in mind that I also change the O-ring for the distibutor/oil-pump drive gear gasket and inspect all the injectors. Overall the task is not too hard.... I recommend getting a service manual to guide you... I ran it through my head, and there are many steps I can't recall since It's been to cold to work beneath the hood recently, and i can do the tadk in my sleep... if it's in front of me. but.. If cannot wait to fix it, I've done this type of trick.... Remove the radiator caps lower seal, which wll casue the coolant system to operate without back pressure... and change the oil ASAP, as it is already contaminated.. And check it at every stop to avoid coolant loss as well as oil level. if you just plan to go right to the mechanic... change the oil (and save it in a large plastic jug for him to see) as you may already be too contaminated to run. Or at least consult your mechanic if he is going to do the job before you drive to see him. btw a typical mechanic cost for this job might be $500... Quote
ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 My dad keeps bitching that its not that big of a deal and just wants me to run it up there as is... If it spins a bearing... how hard is a DOHC convert? Quote
chadz34 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 My dad keeps bitching that its not that big of a deal and just wants me to run it up there as is... If it spins a bearing... how hard is a DOHC convert? Not hard at all. Just use 95 or whatever year your car is and find a 95 DOHC motor. Quote
ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 is my computer and all the hook ups the same??? Quote
Crazy K Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 coolant sits below oil.... so if enough coolant is in the oil... is will get sucked into the oil feed instead... and will be even worse than running a car without oil.... (IMO) since it will displace oil and severely damge the engine. expect bearing damage minimum if you don;t at least check or change the oil btw is the oil high on the stick? and one thing that can be done.. loosen the oil plug enough for it to drip... and see if oil or antifreeze comes out. a trip to the store for a cheap jug of walmart oil may save your engine enough to get it to the mechanic.... and don't forget to at least loosen the radiator cap to prevent pressure from forcing more seepage. If your dad doesn't let you change the oil first... there are enough of us who'd be willing to lynch him for the death of your engine. or at least charge a jasper rebuild to him Quote
chadz34 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 is my computer and all the hook ups the same??? Nope, you would need DOHC computer. You can find a 1994 Cutlass PCM and computer. The get the 1994 3.4 DOHC. Quote
White93z34 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 if it is "let go" you run a VERY high chance of having a multiple piece crankshaft, spun bearings, or a thrown rod. coolant in oil is bad and should never be "let go". drive it minimally till it can be fixed. Quote
Crazy K Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 3.4 swap? you would need the 3.4's pm and wiring harness... btw the tranny also has a different final drive ratio (not too important, but a 3100 tranny is 3.33 FDR and a 3.4 is a 3.43 FDR) that said, the harness for the 3.4 will snap right in place with the pcm attached, and new motor. but I think the 3100 is a much more durable engine... not to mention the #$^* alternator location on a 3.4 dohc Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Just change the gaskets... Around $100 in parts (plus oil and filters) is cheaper than a new engine... It's not a job for the faint of heart if you haven't done engine work in the past... I did mine the week before Christmas, it was very cold in my garage. Worked on it a few hours after work each day for a week, then the whole day on a Friday getting it put back together and running. 5hrs if you've done it before, expect twice that if it's your first time. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME, label everything you take off so you can put it all back together again. Heres the link to my story.. lol http://wbodysource.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=530 Quote
ToroToro Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah you really dont want to put this off. It took me 5 hours in 40 degree weather, and I never touched a 3100 before hand. That said, I'll probobly never touch a 3100 after hand either. Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 I dunno why the hell it took me so long???? I almost wanna do it again just to see how fast I can do it.. (not on my fucking car though :x ) Quote
ToroToro Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Yeah...watch what you say or you'll notice your oil is milky tomarrow. I dunno... when I work on cars, it's like I'm running a freakin marathon. I dont waste any time at all. I jog in and out of the garage for tools. Not saying I rushed doing my gaskets or anything though. I definitely wanted to do it right. Quote
ExZion Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 no the oil is not higher on the stick just little green spots on the cap.... Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 that green will turn to white mily shit after it mixes in more. you're lucky that you caught it very EARLY. Get it taken care of now. Quote
ExZion Posted February 15, 2006 Author Report Posted February 15, 2006 ok well i took it to a mechanic and he said that they are good and that stuff is just condensation from driving a mile to work parking, driving a mile and putting it in a heated garage... he has done many of these and he said it is fine so ill take his word... If it goes i am doing either a l67 or a 3.4dohc ... Quote
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted February 15, 2006 Report Posted February 15, 2006 HAHAHA yeah when I started losing coolant I brought my car to the dealership and got a compression test done, and asked the guys questions and they were saying maybe an external leak (it was a little wet looking around the LIM) and the other guy was thinking maybe heatgasket. As far as the oil cap and PVC they said it might just be CONDENSATION.... It started off as this... and ended up like this I would keep a CLOSE eye on it, to say the least... Check your coolant levels (let the engine run HOT till the fan kicks in) to see if the level is dropping. Check your oil levels. If you notice the coolant going down RIP THE INTAKE OFF!! Quote
ToroToro Posted February 15, 2006 Report Posted February 15, 2006 Yeah that's exactly how the inside of mine looked. I would do them even if they aren't bad just for the sake of preventative maintenence, because with the 3100; it's not if, it's when. Quote
TeeJay3800 Posted February 15, 2006 Report Posted February 15, 2006 If you want to spend big bucks, this would be a sweet upgrade while you have it apart: http://60degreev6.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=17 http://60degreev6.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=18 Quote
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