GutlessSupreme Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Would a motor with a cracked head or block still run reasonably ok? (for the most part?) I replaced the headgaskets on the Cutlass about a month ago because one night it randomly overheated into the red after I was driving for about 5 mins. I did not have any heat in that time - ice cold air. I pulled over and, low and behold, oily-looking coolant. BUT, the oil looked fine. My first thought was the headgaskets so I said fuck it and went with those. Before I did them, after it initially overheated I would shut it off for 5 mins and it'd seem fine. I never drove it that long afterwards but it seemed to stay in the normal temp. range. I get it all back together. I never properly refilled it with coolant (never got a chance), instead I did an oil change (needed it anyway) and filled the radiator with water. I would let it drain at night so it wouldn't freeze. Seemed to be doing ok. Then, as soon as the car started nearing operating temp, the RPMs would freak the fuck out. The tach would bounce around between 0 and 4000 rpms. It would usually stall and restart if I gave it a few minutes. After this initial spaz out, the car wouldn't do it again once it did get warmed up. Even if it was off for a little bit, if the block didn't get cold it wouldn't do it. Once or twice after the gasket change, the temp needle went up towards the red again. Once, something just happened and it fell back down to around 200. quickly. Could be because of poor bleeding, I don't know. I was still pushing it along until it completely died on me one night. I had to have a cop push me out of the road while I waited for AAA to show up. As soon as the car was off the flatbed and he left, I tried... it started right up. I hit the gas, and poof. dead. (I have started and moved it in the driveway since then, and it sounds like it's still running fine.) Like I said, no problems until it starts getting warmed up. Two additional tidbits of info: oil pressure gauge reads fairly high. maybe 3/4s. I thought I put in 5 1/2 quarts (filter was also changed), but I even drained some and the gauge hasn't moved. Level is a good inch passed the crosshatch on the dipshit. I need to try draining some more I guess. Coolant temp sensor on rear head - I broke the wire off when I was taking everything apart, but I thought I resoldering/shrinkwrapped it satisfactorally (sp?). I should've just replaced it, but I was trying to get away with spending as little money as possible. I don't know if those last two could contribute to the issue, but figured they were worth noticing. Also, I know there is zero problems with the thermostat. The LIM-to-heater pipe quick disconnect fitting also has a small leak since I didn't resecure it properly, but I don't think it has anything to do with any other issues. The whole RPM thing I can't figure out. After I put it back together and still had those problems, I figured the only other possibilities were a cracked block or head(s). Am I right? What else could be happening? I'll try to get a video of the RPM thing tomorrow... oh btw, my head gaskets looked fine. And I think the water I was putting in was still coming out oily. Should've been flushed well enough by then. Quote
slick Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Well, I see you mentioned the Coolant Temperature Sensor, and that was my initial guess a few paragraphs before reading that. I have an extra one just sitting if you want it, assuming they are the same from a 3100 to a 3.1. Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted February 13, 2006 Author Report Posted February 13, 2006 I gave it a thought, could definetly be part of the problem but it doesn't explain the overheating or oil in coolant issues. I think I'll just swipe one off a j/y car to test. appreciate the offer though, thanks. Quote
slick Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Very true. Is there any oil leaking externally, or is it all internal? Best case scenario- Head is fucked up. New head, new gaskets, and your good to go. Worst case- Engine is fubared. Swap in a 3400 and call it a day. Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted February 13, 2006 Author Report Posted February 13, 2006 Very true. Is there any oil leaking externally, or is it all internal? Best case scenario- Head is fucked up. New head, new gaskets, and your good to go. Worst case- Engine is fubared. Swap in a 3400 and call it a day. Internal. I do have a spare head laying around, I'd have to have a shop at least give it a once over though. I haven't exactly been kind to it. I'd have to figure out which was being the problem head too, though. I really don't have any heart to work on the car anymore, but it would definetly help the sale if it was running correctly.. and I can't keep borrowing the Caravan while I'm tearing the STE apart... I sure as hell aren't putting a new engine in, if that end's up being the case. Quote
ExZion Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Remember coolent in oil bad LIM gasket, oil in coolent Bad Block...... Quote
Regal_GS_1989 Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Would a motor with a cracked head or block still run reasonably ok? (for the most part?) Yes. Mine Ran actually pretty well before i realized that the heads were craked. (Across 4 of 6 cylinders) Quote
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