EviLette Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 I think my on-board computer is OBD-I. If so, has anyone ever encountered this code? It gave me a long list of stuff to check over... I replaced the knock sensor and checked my module (the thingie where all the plug wires plug into!!) and I still haven't figured out what the code is. Any ideas? Quote
Prospeeder Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 http://shaunsite.com/error/2831error.txt according to that the knock sensor...you replaced it, and the wires wernt broken anywhere? Quote
92 GP Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 I think my on-board computer is OBD-I. If so, has anyone ever encountered this code? It gave me a long list of stuff to check over... I replaced the knock sensor and checked my module (the thingie where all the plug wires plug into!!) and I still haven't figured out what the code is. Any ideas? Will you marry me? Yep, you've got OBD-I You replaced the knock sensor when? If recently, you need to reset your computer to kick that code out of there. Quote
turby Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Pull your ECM fuse or disconnect the battery for 30 seconds or more. Should clear the code. Quote
EviLette Posted February 13, 2006 Author Report Posted February 13, 2006 My battery went dead overnight... wouldn't that do the same as reset? ...Wait, it wasn't totally dead. Okay, I'll try the fuse thing. Will you marry me? Yep, you've got OBD-I You replaced the knock sensor when? If recently, you need to reset your computer to kick that code out of there. .... I replaced the knock sensor around five to six months ago... as far as I can recall... the battery hasn't been disconnected since then... So yeah, I think I'll do that... ECM fuse. **EDIT** Pulled the fuse. Waited like ten seconds... then plugged it back in... Started the car. About fifteen seconds after I started it, the car idled differently and the service light came back on. I've always noticed that, though. When the car is sitting idling, when the light comes on, you hear the engine bog down, timing slow a bit, then the light pops on about a half a second after the engine drones down a bit. The light doesn't stay on constantly. For a while, I thought that meant it wasn't a constant problem, or it wasn't a bad problem... my mechanic told me it was just to keep the bulb from burning out, LOL. My service manual (Haynes, not Chiltons.. :oops: ) specifies that code 43 is ESC circut... duh... says Faulty knock sensor or MEM-CAL. That can't be the only thing possible, can it? Is there a way to test the MEM-CAL? It says it's a read only computer.... Mind you, I'm learning lots about this car as I go... so I am treading new territory here. **EDIT #2 dumbassville** Remove the fuse or disconnect battery for 30 seconds. Is that a 30 seconds on both? Gah. This has been a very brainless day for me. Quote
turby Posted February 13, 2006 Report Posted February 13, 2006 Do one or the other. Whichever you choose wait 30 seconds before reconnecting the battery or putting the fuse back in. Did you check to see what code it was giving you this time/ It may not be 43. Quote
EviLette Posted February 14, 2006 Author Report Posted February 14, 2006 nah, I actually haven't read the code in forever. I guess I just assumed. :? Maybe that's my problem? ...I think we put in a new battery at the same time, but I'll check it out again tomorrow evening when I get off of work... it's getting dark now and I need to consider eating something. Quote
92 GP Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Yea, your OBDI stores idle values in RPMs as well, so when you disconnect you're going to need to relearn your idle on your computer, which can take a while. Hopefully after you disc. your battery it clears. Any updates? Quote
turby Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Yea, your OBDI stores idle values in RPMs as well, so when you disconnect you're going to need to relearn your idle on your computer, which can take a while. Idle re-learn... Start car, put foot on brake, put car in drive, sit for at least 5 minutes holding brake with car in gear. No more than 7 minutes. Shut car off. Start car again. Repeat for 5-7 minutes. Quote
92 GP Posted February 14, 2006 Report Posted February 14, 2006 Yea, your OBDI stores idle values in RPMs as well, so when you disconnect you're going to need to relearn your idle on your computer, which can take a while. Idle re-learn... Start car, put foot on brake, put car in drive, sit for at least 5 minutes holding brake with car in gear. No more than 7 minutes. Shut car off. Start car again. Repeat for 5-7 minutes. WHen you're sitting there for 5-7 minutes staring at your watch, that's the longest 5-7 minutes of your life I actually popped mine up on the highway and just held it at like 1400-1500 and cruised a good 45 minutes one way, turned around, came back. Idled perfectly Quote
Slade901 Posted February 15, 2006 Report Posted February 15, 2006 3.1 engine? Where's your Ignition Coils/ICM located? Is it below the front of your engine? Where's your coolant reservoir located? Directly on top just behind the radiator? On mine, I was having those same problem and come to find out for one thing, the wires that goes into the ICM and out of the ICM has some wires that are just bare. Now, my coolant reservoir was not tight and it sprays a little bit of coolant straight down where the Ignition Coil/ICM is located and this cause my engine to bog down and to the point it just dies. Fixed the coolant reservoir cover and put sealed the exposed wires with electrical tape and no more problem. You could have oil dripping down where the ignition coil/icm is located at. Quote
EviLette Posted February 15, 2006 Author Report Posted February 15, 2006 Damn, you guys are so helpful. Okay, while I was sitting at work today on my break, I pulled the ECM fuse out for like a minute to make sure it was out long enough, since I was counting in my head. I hadn't seen the post about re-learning my idle on my car yet, so after I pulled the fuse and replaced it, I started my car. Right about on cue (I've sat in my car after just starting it enough to know how long it takes the light to pop on) the light popped back on... so whatever the problem is, it hasn't been fixed yet. My ignition coil (I'm assuming you are referring to the big black plastic thing on the front of the block that all of the plug wires are attached to) lol is at the front of my engine down a little bit, but in the front toward the headlights. I'll be getting pictures tomorrow hopefully... My coolant resivoir is on the passenger side of the car in about the middle, connected to the fender. I'm pretty damn sure it's not leaking... I replaced it like six months ago and checked it all out, then pressurized my cooling system and opened the valve to make sure to get all the air bubbles out... just so ya know... I have checked my wiring, to check for any bare, exposed, faulty, or worn looking wires... I didn't find any, but I'll start checking again more thorougly. This gives me a bit of a better idea of what to look for... Clairfication: My engine only bogs down slightly... like maybe 1-200 RPMS, but it's not like an idle kickdown once it's warmed up... because after a couple minutes, it'll kick back up. I've checked, and it doesn't seem to be in timing with the fans coming on and off... hell, to date, I've never seen the fans even kick on while I had the hood open and the engine running. I'm gonna go teach my car how to idle now. **EDIT** It's still doing the same stuff, LOL. It's too dark to check the wiring now (my mom came home right when I was finishing, I had to help bring in groceries) When it was running, when it first started and i put it in drive, it idled at 1000RPM for a bit, then VERY slowly dropped to about 700RPM average... at one point, the second time the service engine light flashed on, it dropped about 500RPM very quickly, then it was like the computer realized it was gonna die if it stayed down there, so it kicked it back up to 700. That was part of the kickdown I was talking about... though it doesn't drop like that all the time, only occasionally, and I have NEVER had it outright die on me. Simple answer: Blow it up. Quote
turby Posted February 16, 2006 Report Posted February 16, 2006 Have you rechecked to see what code it is now? This may sound stupid but check all the wiring on top of the motor. Look and see if everything is plugged in. Has the airbox been out lately? I usually always forget to plug that back in. It might be something simple setting the light off now. If after you do an idle relearn the rpm's still go up and down I would say your IAC valve is either bad or needs cleaned. Quote
EviLette Posted February 16, 2006 Author Report Posted February 16, 2006 ...IAC valve? And no the airbox hasn't been out recently... but I checked all the connections I could find, checked over the wires and stuff... the obvious shit... I just need to sit down and really look over it... I'll have the airbox out in a couple of days cuz I'm putting a new filter in it... That's the right airbox, correct? =\ Quote
Crazy K Posted February 16, 2006 Report Posted February 16, 2006 please re-check the codes ASAP. make sure we're looking for the right problem. What he is refering to is a plug that hooks onto a sensor thats attached to the airbox, make sure that the plug is connected. as for my experience with this motor and the same rpm variation... it was caused by an out-of-spec temp sensor for the ECM. (the one by the thermostat.) recheck the codes. please. Quote
turby Posted February 16, 2006 Report Posted February 16, 2006 Yes, recheck the codes before anything else. Quote
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