Pictorial "How-To" rock 3.1L engine to access rear

[ycartf]

I took some pictures the other day when I rocked my engine on my 1991 Lumina and thought I would simplify this with pictures for those who wonder about this procedure (like I did) when they first hear of it.

 

To everyone who wants to comment on another method that is better in their opinion, I can only say that this is the only one I have tried/used thus far and it is the one that is recommended by the Haynes manual and GM service manual - so it is the one I am depicting here. I know moving the alternator and the bracket it is on reportedly works for some, but it only makes a bigger access hole (for me personally) and does not give my big arms the extra clearance between the engine and firewall that I need.

 

Thanks again to all those who share the great info on here!

Tracy

 

http://home.earthlink.net/~faulkner36303/rockingengine/id1.html

 

 

(The following are key reference words for folks searching the forum) rear spark plugs wires PCV valve oxygen O2 sensor MAP removal accessing rocking rolling tilting moving engine 3.1L gaining more room reaching behind between firewall tight cramped transverse

[birdman]

looks good but someone already made a writeup for that.

[ycartf]

Sorry I did not know. Called myself looking for illustrations of it before posting this.

 

Tracy

[birdman]

no prob, the other one is floating around in someones sig, so its kinda hard to find.

[Prospeeder]

might wanna replace your Upper dog bone mounts, that ones bushing is cracked! Goos write up, it seems most people are retarded and cant figure out the whole 2nd hole on the dog bone

[ycartf]

Done - does that one look better? I thought at a glance that was where the bushing "broke" for insertion.

[Guest TurboSedan]

next time try removing the alternator bracket instead. gives a ton more room than that and you won't be breaking vacuum lines. i think people don't want to do it that way becuase it just sounds hard but it really is easier and gives more room than rocking the engine forward does.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

That's excellent. Yeah, the right dogbone on 3100s is a little bit different than the 2.8/3.1s. I know cause I used to have a 2.8 now 3100.

[digitaloutsider]

I did this tutorial about 2 years ago. It still amazes me people have problems with the simplest of tasks.

[NeonKnight]

Why are the vacuum lines from your IAC so long???

[Prospeeder]

I did this tutorial about 2 years ago. It still amazes me people have problems with the simplest of tasks.

 

You know, You have such a OMG why isnt everyone as smart as me attitude, just because people dont know certain things because they havent been on this message board for over a year doesnt mean there stupid or what ever

[z284pwr]

next time try removing the alternator bracket instead. gives a ton more room than that and you won't be breaking vacuum lines. i think people don't want to do it that way becuase it just sounds hard but it really is easier and gives more room than rocking the engine forward does.

 

Agreed 100%

 

Besides FFP mounts don't have that hole on the drivers side.

[Prospeeder]

 

Besides FFP mounts don't have that hole on the drivers side.

 

That right there would keep me from buying an FPP mount....they should invest in a hole there

[z284pwr]

 

Besides FFP mounts don't have that hole on the drivers side.

 

That right there would keep me from buying an FPP mount....they should invest in a hole there

 

Umm, no, hell no, they would like so weird that way.

 

Like was said, the alternator trick REALLY isn't that hard. Its 3 bolts, the belt, and un-hooking the big wires....its probably faster than the other method to for that matter, if you know what you are doing atleast, as long as the big red wire doesn't touch anything, its way easier to get to, the hand slides right in that hole, and the plugs are aimed quite easy to get from that angle.

[Guest TurboSedan]

next time try removing the alternator bracket instead. gives a ton more room than that and you won't be breaking vacuum lines. i think people don't want to do it that way becuase it just sounds hard but it really is easier and gives more room than rocking the engine forward does.

 

Agreed 100%

 

Besides FFP mounts don't have that hole on the drivers side.

 

i had the engine tilted forward earlier today while installing my Prior accumulator. i had the alternator in place of course. i tried to imagine doing it that way and just thought to myself "NO WAY". removing the alternator is easier and it gives more room. i've done it both ways and there is no way i'm going through the hassle of tilting the engine forward to do the spark plugs ever again. besides, i need my brother's help just to get the engine far enough forward to put the bolt through the slave hole.

[z284pwr]

next time try removing the alternator bracket instead. gives a ton more room than that and you won't be breaking vacuum lines. i think people don't want to do it that way becuase it just sounds hard but it really is easier and gives more room than rocking the engine forward does.

 

Agreed 100%

 

Besides FFP mounts don't have that hole on the drivers side.

 

i had the engine tilted forward earlier today while installing my Prior accumulator. i had the alternator in place of course. i tried to imagine doing it that way and just thought to myself "NO WAY". removing the alternator is easier and it gives more room. i've done it both ways and there is no way i'm going through the hassle of tilting the engine forward to do the spark plugs ever again. besides, i need my brother's help just to get the engine far enough forward to put the bolt through the slave hole.

 

Wow, work-a-holic, we didn't even tilt the engine forward when we did the Master Cylinder. And that Prior unit is a lot bigger than stock too. I guess we were never a fan of that, definitely to much of a pain to tilt it

[Guest TurboSedan]

Wow, work-a-holic, we didn't even tilt the engine forward when we did the Master Cylinder. And that Prior unit is a lot bigger than stock too. I guess we were never a fan of that, definitely to much of a pain to tilt it

 

for the master cylinder there would have been no need for me to tilt the engine forward. it's because of how Prior made the accumulator with the nut on the frontside of it (RETARDED). you can only get the wrench in there one way (or vice grips in my case ) and tilting the engine forward is the only way to get access.

[z284pwr]

Wow, work-a-holic, we didn't even tilt the engine forward when we did the Master Cylinder. And that Prior unit is a lot bigger than stock too. I guess we were never a fan of that, definitely to much of a pain to tilt it

 

for the master cylinder there would have been no need for me to tilt the engine forward. it's because of how Prior made the accumulator with the nut on the frontside of it (RETARDED). you can only get the wrench in there one way (or vice grips in my case ) and tilting the engine forward is the only way to get access.

 

Yes, that is true, we went and baught one socket just for this job. A swivel head 15mm I believe it is right? Luckily we were able to work it down in there enough to get it. Definitely one of the biggest P.I.T.A. bolts on the entire car

[Guest TurboSedan]

a socket would work on the stock accumulator, but there is no getting a socket on the Prior unit. end-wrench only....or vice grips

[ycartf]

I honestly must say that I have not tried using the alternator removal method and I believe to each his own. But I have used the rocking method three times now and I can do it in about 3 minutes......counting taking the nuts off of the two bolts and everything.

 

And to Neon Knight - the reason the vacuum lines are so long is that I left a lot of slack in them when I replaced the hard ones with rubber - but I am thinking about shortening them just to see if they are more effective that way.

[Miko K]

Another easy way to tilt the engine is unbolt the dogbones and use a ratcheting strap to ratchet the engine forward. Takes no time at all . Also, put the car in neutral, otherwise you'll be moving the whole car with the engine. My $0.02.