bodyman Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 Hey, I have a 1990 Grand Prix TGP - turbo. I'll go out to start it and it starts fine, while it sits and idles for like 20 minutes you take off and a few miles down the road it starts to blow blueish/black smoke from the tail pipe. I know that you have already talked about this and I've talked with a lot of people and they said it would not be rings because rings would be smoking all the time. It can’t be the valve guide seals because that would smoke when you first start it up, not when it's warmed up. Other then that I have no idea. But when the car is warmed up after setting for about 20 minutes then take off it will smoke but then will clear up. I don't think it would be the injectors even though I put fatter injectors in it. Any one with any idea? I would appreciate any useful feedback. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 Hey, i had the same problem, my oil return line colapsed, it causes oil to back up and leak out the seals, replace it, its a foot long 5/8 silicone hose, its right under the compressor side of the turbo, its a fabric like wrapped silicone line thats black and goes to a hard line, simple 2 hex or flat head screw clamps. Get one from here if local places dont have it http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-024&Category_Code=OIL If that doesnt solve the problem, your turbos seals are shot and needs rebuilt, http://www.cheapturbo.com has a great price and is highly reccomended Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 take off the turbo and inspect the oil return line. then send in the turbo to Garrett for a reman. if your lucky they can rebuild it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 you dont need to take off the turbo to get to the drain line just so you know, it takes like 10 minutes max to take it off, because all the intercooler piping has to come off to get acsess to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 My car did that, definitely replace your Oil Return Line. Its so easy. My car actually had oil sitting in the bottom of the intercooler. :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 they should be rebuilt periodically anyway is all I was thinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 yea, im rebuilding mine wheni do my xover pipe, not way in HELL im gonn atake the turbo out and not rebuild it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 2, 2006 Report Share Posted February 2, 2006 use a resperator when working with that blanket or hold your breath. it can be nasty if it gets all crumbly. I just threw mine in the garbage the first time I took it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodyman Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Hey Thanks everyone, great tips I'll try changing my return line. If that does not work at least I know I have new lines. If you can think of anything else let me know. By the way I'll hopefully have both my Pontiac's on Cardomain.com and on here soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 yup, no problem, hope its your problem, it was mine, and my cars running great now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodyman Posted February 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 Prospeeder, Hey thanks for the information about my smoking problem. I just had another problem occur this week. My breaks are failing. I figured out the problem. Knowing you have the same car with the electric assist (sorry about the spelling) breaks you know how the break accumulator works with the master cylinders electric servos. I had it hooked to a computer and it said low accumulator pressure and the second code said left side rear break servo leak by. Then reading more about the break units, I work on cars and I know enough to know if I don’t know how something works I don’t try to fix it. Haa Haa To make a long story short, I took it to a GM dealer garage and they’ve never seen a Turbo Grand Prix before, let alone the break system. Let lead me know where, so I took it to another shop then they said the problem was caused by a worn out break servo and you can not buy a new break servo anymore they have discontinued it. The only way you could buy it is buying the master cylinder that would set me back $2200.00! That’s not GM because they don’t make it anymore. But I also found out doing my own research that Jeep used the same break set up and their break cylinders are about $900.00, which is still a lot but better then 22. Now to the question, do you know anybody trustworthy that ones of these kinds of break units for parts, all I need is that servo that goes into the master cylinder. If you could help me I would really appreciate it. Or if I can’t find one, do you know anybody that tore out that electric break system and put in a regular power break assist break system. I don’t know if the Turbo would heat it up and ruin it or there is not enough room to put a hydro jack system in it. I just don’t know. If you could help me out, write me back or if you know someone with the parts, I would be very appreciative. Thanks Hey thanks for the information about my smoking problem. I just had another problem occur this week. My breaks are failing. I figured out the problem. Knowing you have the same car with the electric assist (sorry about the spelling) breaks you know how the break accumulator works with the master cylinders electric servos. I had it hooked to a computer and it said low accumulator pressure and the second code said left side rear break servo leak by. Then reading more about the break units, I work on cars and I know enough to know if I don’t know how something works I don’t try to fix it. Haa Haa To make a long story short, I took it to a GM dealer garage and they’ve never seen a Turbo Grand Prix before, let alone the break system. Let lead me know where, so I took it to another shop then they said the problem was caused by a worn out break servo and you can not buy a new break servo anymore they have discontinued it. The only way you could buy it is buying the master cylinder that would set me back $2200.00! That’s not GM because they don’t make it anymore. But I also found out doing my own research that Jeep used the same break set up and their break cylinders are about $900.00, which is still a lot but better then 22. Now to the question, do you know anybody trustworthy that ones of these kinds of break units for parts, all I need is that servo that goes into the master cylinder. If you could help me I would really appreciate it. Or if I can’t find one, do you know anybody that tore out that electric break system and put in a regular power break assist break system. I don’t know if the Turbo would heat it up and ruin it or there is not enough room to put a hydro jack system in it. I just don’t know. If you could help me out, write me back or if you know someone with the parts, I would be very appreciative. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Dubya Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 cut/paste once!! Prior manufacturing sells reman units for a resonable price.. last I checked it was around a grand (i think). Prior also offers a warranty with their units. I don't have the link, but I know someone on here does, maybe they can give you the phone # or contact info. The brake accumulator is around $300 from GM, but the one from Prior works just as well, last I bought one it was $100. Reman units were hovering around $750, might have gone up. Removal/install is pretty easy, a couple bolts and removing the lines at the m/c, and it pulls right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 10, 2006 Report Share Posted February 10, 2006 I belive GM wants 200 or so for the acuumlator, wich most likley is your problem UNLESS its leaking out the back, then you need a new one, from prior they have the leaking case fixed, there 700-900$ from what i hear, you MUST send them your old one as a core for 100$, it keeps prices low for us other people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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