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VATS module is BAD, do I need to buy a new one?>


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Posted

two things:

I am trying to build the circuit from fiero addiction.com I have all the parts listed, except radio shack did not have a 12-16v zener diode. I went to best buy and got a 12v 1amp diode... will this work the same?

 

 

On the diagram, it says 'out to ECM'. Where exactly does that wire go to on the ecm? Is this something that will have to be run to the ecm under the hood, or is there a better place to tap the wire?

Posted

PM turbocharged400sbc. He's the one who built the Fiero Addiction circuit for his Olds.

 

Acutally, if you follow the link in my write-up, I think he answers the question:

http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31124&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=vats&start=15

 

But to answer your question, bypassing the reader in the lock cylinder is counter-productive if the VATS module is bad...

Posted
two things:

I am trying to build the circuit from fiero addiction.com I have all the parts listed, except radio shack did not have a 12-16v zener diode. I went to best buy and got a 12v 1amp diode... will this work the same?

 

No, that diode wont work. Zener diodes are special in that they block voltage untill a certain point, in this case its 12-16V. After that voltage it allows the current to pass through it.

Posted

Alright, I built the circuit. I'm assuming when I find it I can cut the Dark blue wire from the VATS module and attatch it to th bypass circuit. I'll post pics later when i get my camera. My only other question is:

 

Where in the car is the VATS Module located?

Posted

on a ???? CS

95-97 CS will be behind the passenger side airbag. Easist way to access it, it to remove the glove box insert, and it will be mouted above the brace behind the insert. It is a black box about 1" x 3" x 6" with a aqua-green connector coming off the end. It is mounted on a metal plate coming up and above that brace on the rear side. You may beable to unplug it, or bend the metal plate towards the firewall, which will cause it to rotate into view, and the module will be yours.

 

on a 94 is is at the base of the column, behind a small black metal "cage". just bend the cage downward and you could unplug it.

 

I used to have a bypassed module I made that I could quickly plug into said port and punch the key and the car was mine. I drove many cars the last hundred yards of their lives.

Posted

I can see you I-pod. Is it learning? I can see it on top of sheet music! :lol:

let us know if you are having issues, i also have the wiring diagram for the module, as well.

Posted
I can see you I-pod. Is it learning? I can see it on top of sheet music! :lol:

let us know if you are having issues, i also have the wiring diagram for the module, as well.

 

:lol: :lol: Yeah, it is a new prototype I-pod that takes a picture of sheet music and then plays it. :lol:

 

 

If you have the wiring diagram for the module, that would be great if I could see it. I was gonna get the +12v from the yellow crank wire at the ign. harness, but maybe I can use one of the wires going to the vats module to power the bypass during cranking?? That would make things that much easier. Oh by the way it is for the '97 CS

Posted

ok here goes, it should be the same vats for 94-97

 

A1 ORN constant hot

A2 PNK hot in run, bulb test, or park

A3 DK BLU fuel enable signal (to pcm)

A4 YEL/BLK starter enable relay control

A5 GRY security indicator enable control

A6

A7

A8

 

B1

B2

B3

B4

B5 BLK ground

B6

B7 PPL/WHT ignition pellet return

B8 WHT/BLK ignition pellet feed

 

that help???

Posted

Thanks for the wiring diagram! No luck though. Every time I would go to start the car, it would run for about 1 second then die. On the circuit, I connected the +12v wire to the pink wire, the output wire to the dark blue, and I grounded the 3rd wire on my circuit. This did nothing, so I started fooling around and after grounding the yellow/black wire, the car would crank, turn over, run for a second and then die.

 

My R2 value is 13.9K ohms. Is this the correct value for my 97 CS. I thought it was... I double checked my circuit and everything is definitely soldered the way it should be.

Posted

man oh man......... give me a day, I'll see what I can come up with. specs perhaps....

 

if it was my car, I would go to a junkyard, find a W with it's passkey intact.... measure the Resistance with an ohmeter, and steal the module. and then make a resistor for it.

Posted

What really sucks is the car is sitting at the shop in the parking lot. I told them not to do the work and now they want it out of there asap. It may be a long night in the rain for me... :x

Posted

Oh my fuckin god I got it started. Best feeling in the world I just saved my parents $500.00

 

:shock: :shock: :shock:

 

 

Heres what it was... on this website... http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/passkey.html

 

they have listed the value of R2 as 13-14K ohms. Well, originally I had built it with R2 being 13.9Kohms. I had a hunch maybe that was too close to the limit of 14K so I cut that resistor out and soldered in a 13.1K ohm resistor. Drove back down to the shop, hooked it up and voila!!

Then I got out of the car and yelled something along the lines of 'I'm the f'in man'. I guess no one cares since it was 2am and raining.

 

crazy, discostudd, rocketman... Thanks for your help these last couple days. I definitely couldn't have done it without your tips. Now the only problem is... I left my cutty at the shop and drove the VAT-less car home :lol: :lol:

Posted
Then I got out of the car and yelled something along the lines of 'I'm the f'in man'. I guess no one cares since it was 2am and raining.

I did that in the Wal-Mart parking lot the first time I had to change the alternator in the Grand Prix. I had really never touched a car before except for oil changes, and I felt pretty damn cool. It was 2p.m., sunny, and during summer vacation. Yes... lots of people were outside.

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