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Another Alternator down


Puggsley456

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My heater blower slows down and my lights dim when I press on the brakes... I would say the regulator in your alt is gone again, but you need to track down the problem that's killing the alts

 

You are right. My regulator is blown again. When I am at a stop light with my foot on the brake and stereo off my voltage drops to 12.8v....always has.

 

So I went back to the Place that did my alternator. After a heated discussion over the fact that it wasnt the stereo killing the regulators and that there wasnt a need for a second battery. We came the understanding that they were going to redo my stator again. This time for maximum amperage output at a low rpm.

 

So I keep you guys updated.

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yah I hope you get everything worked out! The last thing you need is to be stuck somewhere... But I hope it works out for ya!

 

I know one time when my alt was whining, Id be at a stop light and itd drop down to around 12.8ish then let off and itd go back up. But deff get that fixed soon, because that 17v+ isnt very good....

 

 

 

 

 

i take back what i said lol, thats good shit...

 

what kind of subs, wire, head unit, and cap/battery?

 

Subs: eD 13Ov.2 (two of them)

Wire: Tsunami competition series (4g)

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH 7700MP

Battery: AC Delco

Cap: Nope

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Had everything tested today. My heater motor is overheating and drawing 55 amps!!!! :dammit:

 

So my heater motor killed my alternator which killed my battery! :leaving: :skep: :leaving:

 

Oooohhhh...this is starting to get to me!

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That sucks... I hate the fucking heater motors in W's... their so fucking weak. I've always wanted to take a motor out of an '02-ish sunfire. Those are the most powerful blower motors I've ever experianced... Wonder if it would fit though.... :?

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Ouch! well atleast you know the root of the problem

 

 

 

 

Besides you dont need a heater up there!!! :lol:

 

ROFLMAO.......Ya its only -46 C.....I think that equaLS -50 F...here tonight with the windchill!!!! :leaving:

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I've always wanted to take a motor out of an '02-ish sunfire. Those are the most powerful blower motors I've ever experianced... Wonder if it would fit though.... :?
RETRO FIT!!!!!!!!! i thought the cars only had one blower motor :oops:
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DAMN IT! :motz2:

 

It happend again today.....I go to start my car in the morning and its at 11.8 volts......this time I left it came home from work......started it up and it was at 14.9v for about five minutes.....them it dropped down to 12v.

 

This is starting to piss me off!

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Did you build custom ground cables to replace the stock 2-in-1 sidepost battery cable? That is what I had to do before it would charge all the way.

 

oh yea, and what charge wire are you using? Do you use the factory one, or something like a 4 gauge amp wire, or both? because it can really make a difference in charging a battery.

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Did you build custom ground cables to replace the stock 2-in-1 sidepost battery cable? That is what I had to do before it would charge all the way.

 

oh yea, and what charge wire are you using? Do you use the factory one, or something like a 4 gauge amp wire, or both? because it can really make a difference in charging a battery.

 

I did add 4 guage power and ground cables in addition to the factory ones. I just hope its not the ecm!

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oh yea, and what charge wire are you using? Do you use the factory one, or something like a 4 gauge amp wire, or both? because it can really make a difference in charging a battery.

 

Ok thats your problem then because what you are doing is splitting the voltage to the battery. Try it again with one 4 gauge wire coming off the alt post straight to the battery. the stock wire needs to be shrink wrapped and retired.

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Ok thats your problem then because what you are doing is splitting the voltage to the battery. Try it again with one 4 gauge wire coming off the alt post straight to the battery. the stock wire needs to be shrink wrapped and retired.

 

I've never heard of that, electric takes the path of least resistance, so you would think it would basically only use the smaller wire as a backup. :shrug:

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Electricity does take the path of least resistance. Having both the stock and the 4g just means that more current will flow through the 4g wire cause of less resistance, although there will still be alot of current going through the stock wire. I mean they both end up at the same place as well. So if you have a shitty wire and a good one going from the same point, to a different point, it wont matter.

 

 

 

The ecm could have gotten ove charged enough or not enough and it might be possible... (lets hope not!)

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. Try it again with one 4 gauge wire coming off the alt post straight to the battery. the stock wire needs to be shrink wrapped and retired.

 

This is specifically what I had problem with.

 

The grounds can be stacked and everything else doesnt matter nearly as much. The current directly off the alt will split and thats bad.

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very true. too much resistence can do more than screw with your regulater. I never had a regulater blow on a cs-130-d but resistence will do damage. grounds that are too long create mega resistence. your alt will work itself to death if something doesnt give. Like, when your 2 gauge charge wire melts off the charge post (through a thick gold ring terminal) and arcs across the alt welding chunks of metal off. :oops:

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Well it was my alternator again....no chargiong voltage. I've had it with this custom rebuilt crap! I work at honda so I got a great deal on a brand new Bosch alternator with LIFETIME WARRANTY and 2 years roadside assistance and towing :wink:

 

 

I am going to wait a couple weeks and see if that solves my problem.....sofar so good. And if it does I'm gonna take this custom alternator back......and lets just say someones not goin to be able to sit down when I get done!

 

I'll keep you guys updated.

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  • 2 weeks later...

While on the alternator subject, a quick question.

 

I had the alternator replaced in my 1993 Grand Prix (3.1 MPFI with 125k on the clock) because the voltmeter was jumping all over the place when idling. It was great until yesterday. When I started the car, the volts gauge read around 16.5. I eventually dropped down to 14.5 while driving. Then the voltmeter started fluctuating at idle- moreso at night with headlights on and if the blinker is on, it is much worse. Is this a bad alternator, or could there be a deeper root cause?

 

I had the new (rebuilt) Bosch alternator purchased and installed at Pep Boys. I've heard that Bosch spark plugs and certain GM engines don't get along that well. Is the same true for alternators? I will be taking it back to them but I guess I need to know whether or not I should request a different brand of alternator?

 

Kevin

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With the amperage you are pulling, I would recomend a diferent pulley. Otherwise it will just fry slowly from idling at stop lights and what not. Good luck..

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