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Another Alternator down


Puggsley456

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I've had my cutlass for 5 years now and am about to install alternator number 5!!! And the last one was HIGH OUTPUT!!

 

The price of a quality sound system I guess......

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Optima battery might help, like a red or yellow top, I think like a series 75 or somthing and they fit fine

 

Yep...check my signature........I even upgraded my "big three"

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I've had my cutlass for 5 years now and am about to install alternator number 5!!! And the last one was HIGH OUTPUT!!

 

The price of a quality sound system I guess......

 

are you going to upgrade now to a better alt or stick with the old external fan dinosaur ?

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I've had my cutlass for 5 years now and am about to install alternator number 5!!! And the last one was HIGH OUTPUT!!

 

The price of a quality sound system I guess......

 

are you going to upgrade now to a better alt or stick with the old external fan dinosaur ?

I'm not sure what you mean?

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I think that was a goof....... the 94 CS has the newer internal fan alternator, the 93- has the old type external alternator.

On W's (but not 94 beretta, corsica, skylark, or grand am IIRC) the 3100 comes with the internal fan type alt, (130d?) and the 3.1 comes with the old type external fan type.

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Im gonna get this alt when I need one, http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm#products 170amp alt. That should do you well.

 

Im actually pretty lucky, Im running stock electrical system with a Nine.1 @ 1ohm:)

 

 

 

 

BTW,Puggsley456, I got everything installed, and Im speachless! I cant believe it. and I put more dynamat (had some leftover) on the rear deck, and I swear it was much louder, not to mention no more rattles, thats what 2-3 layers will do

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Im gonna get this alt when I need one, http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm#products 170amp alt. That should do you well.

 

Im actually pretty lucky, Im running stock electrical system with a Nine.1 @ 1ohm:)

 

 

 

 

BTW,Puggsley456, I got everything installed, and Im speachless! I cant believe it. and I put more dynamat (had some leftover) on the rear deck, and I swear it was much louder, not to mention no more rattles, thats what 2-3 layers will do

Unfortuentlly by the time I get one of those through customs....it wont even be worth my while. I may just get mine rebuilt again to an even higher amperage.

 

I pulled it out today. I gotta get this done ASAP.....cause I wanna put my EDI 6500 components in next saturday.... :wink:

 

Yep A nice system upgrade sure can make you breathless. :thumbsup:

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Just beware of max output ratings that sacrifice idle charge output. It is like HP ratings on a dyno. there should be a graph with a curve. that "high amperage" on that link? what are they hiding? they are hiding the low RPM output and charging more for max output.

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He is saying that the alternator may not be creating full output at idle. It may have to be spinning faster to create the higher output.

 

How many watts are you running? Every one thousand watts you should have 1 farad capacitor.

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I dont understand how your running 1000w with everything youve done to your electrical system, and still have problems, and Im running atleast 1200w and I dont have a problem with a stock electrical system....

 

 

But at least that $40 part isnt too expensive of a part.

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Just beware of max output ratings that sacrifice idle charge output. It is like HP ratings on a dyno. there should be a graph with a curve. that "high amperage" on that link? what are they hiding? they are hiding the low RPM output and charging more for max output.

 

Take it from someone that has that alt and has hardly any idle output (the stock alt puts out more juice @ idle!) I'm currently looking for an overdrive pully so yes, make sure you do alot of research, because that's the one thing I overlooked was the power curve of the alt

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  • 2 weeks later...

im running 750rms at one ohm...

 

stock alt, junk battery, stock wiring, 4 gauge to trunk

 

my battery drops to 10.7 volts when my "high lows" hit and it turns my ABS light on. My cap shuts off when the voltage gets that low. I cant read my gauges either. they get so dark i have to squint to read em. when i get it up to about 3000RPM driving, it might jump to 11.3v or so.

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i dont mean to flame on you, but what kind of amps are you running? it sounds like the 1300 might be overrated.

 

my buddy has one of those audiobahn amps rated at 2300 rms and his old Directed 750D just like mine kicked the shit out of it. hes happy though, because the audiobahn is pretty and impresses more people.

 

i think if youre running 1300rms and you dont drop 13.5 with all stock components, somethings not right. i mean, what alternator can supply the car with enough amps and then drive a stereo that big without problems? even the 180 amp unit i have in the basement could barely keep up when i had my black ciera XC wagon. the car hesitated when i took off from lights. my CS SL does the same.

 

i dont mean to be an ass, i just think your amps might be overrated.

 

i think everyone with a system should go to a w-body meet. we can go find someone with a termlab mic and get all our cars measured :lol:

 

i think im around 140 but ive heard cars that are 150+ that arent much different from me. this one dude i know has 4 JL w-0s with two 500/1s walled in the back of his s10 extended cab and hes at 152.4db or something like that. mine is cleaner and sounds DAMN NEAR as loud.

 

i dont know, i guess i cant talk until i get measured.

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Well guys I started having problems again!!! The same thing happend...When I started my car up my voltage guage said 11v. So I started kicking the shit out of my car in anger. Then once that was over and I felt better I started to play with some stuff.

 

I checked all my under hood conections....but nothing worked. So I sat in the car made sure my stereo was off. Then I realised that my defrost was still on(I leave it on because of my comand start). I turned it off and my voltage came back up to 14.7v.

 

But now the exact opposite is happening. I will be driving along(heater on full) and then the heater output will double.....and the voltage guage goes way over to the right nearing 17+volts. And then it comes back down after a couple of seconds.

 

Does anyone else have the problem of the highest heater speed dying down when you come to a stop? Cause mine does. And come to think of it! I wonder if this could be the reason I have gone through all these alternators?

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My heater blower slows down and my lights dim when I press on the brakes... I would say the regulator in your alt is gone again, but you need to track down the problem that's killing the alts

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