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vats bypass question


stockgp

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why do you need more then one resistor? do yourself a favor and spend the extra for a bypass module. less headaches and do not have to worry about resistor value changing in cold weather and being out of specs.

 

take it from someone with almost 20 years experience installing remote starters.

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Bypass module = >$50. Home-made resistor pack using parts from Radio Shack = <$5.

 

Why more than one resistor? You need to run the required resistors in series to achieve the proper value. If the value on your key is 11.8k ohms, then you need to solder together a 10kΩ resistor to a 1kΩ resistor to an 800Ω resistor to acheive 11.8kΩ :wink: ...

 

More info can be found here...

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yeah that'a the one i need, too.

 

another question, distostudd. does it matter which wires you splice the resistor pack into? on your page it doesn't seem to matter. i just want to clarify

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Look for the "rubbery" orange wire running the length of the column (it should be in close proximity of the signal switch and wiper switch wiring.) Snip the orange wire and inside you'll find 2 small white wires. It doesn't matter which side of your resistor pack connects to which wire. Just be sure to connect the pack to the wires that run to the "bulkhead" connector (after you cut the orange wire in half) and not to the one running back to the column...

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bypass module for that car = $18 or less on ebay. you only need one resistor if you need it i will send it to you free. i have never had to use 2 resistors. only asking for more trouble as in cold weather the resistance of the resistor will change and if not in tolerance it will not work. there is only so many values of resistors that they use and everyone is availible in a single resistor

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Sorry for the lack of pictures, but I never snapped any because I never intended on doing a write-up when I did the bypass on my old LeSabre. Maybe I'll bring a camera with me to the boneyard next time I go so I can get a good pic of me "butchering" the wires :lol: ...

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eh i'll figure it out.

 

tblanning, the local radidio shelack doesn't carry 11,800 ohm resistors, so i'm doing the best i can here.

 

i paid all of 10 bucks shipped for this remote starter. i figure if it doesn't work or i can't figure it out, big freaking deal. so it's really not worth it to me to buy a bypass module for a remote starter that may or may not work.

 

plus, the resistor fix i had in mind anyhow so my mom doesn't have to spend 30 bucks a key at the stealership for new ones. she only got 1 set of keys with the car.

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only asking for more trouble as in cold weather the resistance of the resistor will change
Okay, if that's the case, then how do you explain modules that the auto manufacturers use not failing in cold weather? I worked at a plant that made (amongst others) wiper and chime modules for Ford and GM that used regualr old "wire lead" resistors. They "duribility tested" one batch of each module once a week inside of a "thermal chamber" that heated and cooled the modules to extremes that most cars on the planet won't ever see. If the resistance values were still in spec after all of that, then how would you expect that to happen with a handful of "wire lead" resistors you can buy at Radio Shack?

 

I used this method to bypass the VATS system in my 92 LeSabre and never encountered any change in tolerance due to cold weather. I'm sure that if this was a recurring problem, I'd have received a ton of angry hate mail by now (which isn't the case, actually quite the opposite.) :lol: ...

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When I install a remote starter into these cars, myself. I plan to use a relay... that only connects the resistors when the remote starter is active. No one can punch the column and steal the car this way... but you could so easily if the resistors are permanently attached!

 

using several resistor should be fine, the VATS modules have flexiable torlerances, anyhow. I should publish my VATS modlue values and tolerances.

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VATS # (K)OHMS

 

1â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€ 0.402

2â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€ 0.523

3â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€ 0.681

4â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-0.887

5â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-1.130

6â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-1.470

7â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-1.870

8â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-2.370

9â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€-3.010

10â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€3.740

11â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€4.750

12â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€6.040

13â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€7.500

14â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€9.530

15â€â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€Ã¢â‚¬â€11.801

 

That's a good idea to use the relays with the RS system.

 

I should clarify that I wrote my document only to remedy a broken wire at the VATS reader inside the ignition lock cylinder. It was, quite simply, what I did when the wire(s) broke inside the column of my old LeSabre. Personally, if I were to install a remote start system, I would go with the transponder bypass module, or build the "signal pulse generator" to eliminate the VATS altogether.

 

One guy sent in a suggestion to simply solder a wire on each side of the pellet on a spare ignition key and connect that to the 2 wires running from the reader...

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I've seen a module that you insert a spare key into and then wires into the system. It reads that key ONLY during a remote start so you dont need to worry about it being stolen.

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VATS Pellet codes in OHMs

Pellet Code = ideal value, low range, high range

1 = 402, 386, 438

2 = 523, 502, 564

3 = 681, 654, 728

4 = 887, 852, 942

5 = 1130, 1085, 1195

6 = 1470, 1411, 1549

7 = 1870, 1795, 1965

8 = 2370, 2275, 2485

9 = 3010, 2890, 3150

10= 3740, 3590, 3910

11= 4750, 4560, 4960

12= 6040, 5798, 6302

13= 7500, 7200, 7820

14= 9530, 9149, 9931

15= 11801, 11328, 12292

 

I have recieved a PM regarding the idea of building a relay enabled VATS resistor bypass. This is to prevent a resistor from being availible in circuit to start a vehicle if someone punches your column. The saginaw columns are easy to punch. Trust me. I've driven many many junkyard specials on thir final journey to hell.

I must test before I post a how to, but the idea is...

 

Either:

To create a parallel circuit to the key cylinder's OEM circuit.

To create a Replacement circuit to the key cylinder's OEM circuit.

 

A parallel circuit would the operation of the remote starter, and allow the key to start the car normally..

 

A replacement circuit completely bypasses the key, preferabley with a hidden engagement switch for the relay, or just a switched relay-less direct circuit. Even better... how about a manually actuated circuit that stays connected until the car is off for more than 30 seconds????

 

give me a few days of experimentation, I shall return!!!

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Why not try wiring one of these to a relay:

http://fp.enter.net/~rockcrawl/passkey.html

 

Have the relay you use to activate the above circuit engage only when the vehicle is cranking over. Wire the "activation" relay to a hidden switch (say, inside the glovebox) so you can override it. You could even tap off of the "start" relay of the remote start system to send power to this circuit simultaneously so it will still start with the RS system and stay deactivated if you have the hidden switch turned off...

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i see in alldata that the theft deterrent module has some kind of built in timer. so does the pcm only read the resistor pellet long enough to start the engine?

 

i'm thinking if that's the case, i can use the signal simulator discostudd posted for the remote starter and for additional keys with out the resistor pellet. and i can also put a momentary switch on the circuit so anyone who wants to start the car will need to puch the button to start the car without a resistor pellet key.

 

that way the signal simulator won't always be on and i can leave the resistor pellet in my mom's key so she can use it to start the car when the car is at home in the garage and she doesn't need the remote starter.

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well, if the resistor came disconnecteted it would turn the security light on. It would also do the same for about one cycle (4 minutes?) if both the resistor relay and the key were engaged....

 

But It is my understanding that the system will not work with a momentary device only while cranking, because it will recognize a problem when the momentary device becomes disconnected. The Module will disable the VATS system allowing the car to restart thinking that the circuit has been damaged.

 

A relay that remains engaged after power has been applied to it, and for maybe 30 seconds after the car has been shut off( to allow quick restarts in the event of a stall, for instance) woulc be the best bet for a total bypass of the key.

 

I was even thinking that the key resistor (as well as the remote starter) could complete a circuit to trigger this same relay. A simple punch of the column would not enabel the system, but if someone was to see the cylinder wires and try to cross them (YES I HAVE SEEN THAT DONE) it would enable the realy and start the car.

 

thus maybe a hidden switch would be the best solution?

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ok, so the theft deterrent module is on the entire time the motor is running?

 

if so, then i could just as easily put an on/off switch on the signal simulator above. it has a 555 timer. then, whenever someone is done using the spare key without the resistor pellet, they can just turn the switch off.

 

this way when the key with the resistor pellet can be used by the next person to get in the car.

 

but shit, then i won't be able to use it with the remote starter. unless my mom carried a spare key without the resistor pellet and her resistor pellet key.

 

hmm. sounds like i'm stuck having to take the resistor pelet out of her key, also.

 

i'l just bild a signal simulator and put an on/off switch on it. she can turn it on when she goes into work so she can start the car from inside. then when she gets home she can turn the switch off.

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