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Hard shfting into gear? ***Now with Video**


Prospeeder

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When i go from lets say Park to Drive, or reverse, or any combo, it has a 2-3 second delay then goes into gear farly hard, like, the car will jump if you dont have the brake on or on enough. Is this like a Trans, motor, or dogbone mount? My motor doesnt move an awful lot. I do have a trans fluid leak, its drip...drip and not alot, its not low from what i can tell. Shifting when driving down the road isnt very harsh at all, except somtimes when you give it a bit to much gas it slams down into gear pretty bad, but not very often. Think my modulators bad? Or Mounts? Or just low fluid? My fluid is nice and red, and smells fine

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no, it doesnt rev at all, When occasionally driving it has an extremly hard shift when gasing it, (not flooring it, not even close actually, lol). When you shift into drive or reverse or which ever it slams into gear pretty hard, theres just a delay, i usually have to wait to feel it shift then press the gas, im sure if i press the gas right when i shift it would rev up and then slam into gear

 

It never slips out of gear once its in gear

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icic...i will stick with my original reply and say check the fluid level first...then i would try rocking the car in park and look to see how much movement the engine and trans have...

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Alright, Any chance this is hurting my trans? Like could it wait till spring? Ill do a Fluid and Filter change

 

Depending on what the problem is it could definately hurt your trans. A few things that could cause that problem would defiantely cause your trans to be unuseable by spring...

 

Fluid and filter change is a great idea. I would also check your motor mounts as that would cause it to clunk in gear and in reverse/drive/park.

 

Shawn

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If you have a vacuum leak (possibly related to the modulator) that would cause it to take long to shift. If you take the vacuum line off the modulator and plug it completely, it should shift immediatly (and quite hard too).

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Curious, if i had a vacuum leak, wouldnt it cause it to have really sloppy light shifts not extremly hard shifts only into gear? But the delay i could see vacuum being a problem.

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My car has been like that forever...my dogbones are shot though....when doing 55mph around and u slam it into 2nd...there is quite a jolt throughout the car....in summer it is wrose though lol

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Curious, if i had a vacuum leak, wouldnt it cause it to have really sloppy light shifts not extremly hard shifts only into gear? But the delay i could see vacuum being a problem.

 

Yeah, if you've ever driven without vacuum line hooked to the tranny, it'll band your ass into gear. I was adjusting my adj. vacuum modulator and forgot to put the vacuum line back on. Went to drive the car, and once it got in 3rd gear it wouldnt downshift anymore. Came back, put the line on and it was fine.

 

Summary: Yes, no vacuum will make it bang you into gear

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Curious, if i had a vacuum leak, wouldnt it cause it to have really sloppy light shifts not extremly hard shifts only into gear? But the delay i could see vacuum being a problem.

 

Yeah, if you've ever driven without vacuum line hooked to the tranny, it'll band your ass into gear. I was adjusting my adj. vacuum modulator and forgot to put the vacuum line back on. Went to drive the car, and once it got in 3rd gear it wouldnt downshift anymore. Came back, put the line on and it was fine.

 

Summary: Yes, no vacuum will make it bang you into gear

 

Alright, I got a 10$ gift card to shucks, lol, i use it to buy a new modulator and go from there, mabye my Checkvalve is bad, ill take it off and see mabye its cracked, or my Line that screws into the plenum to the trans is lose or somthing

 

YES it is like a jolt 1990lumina, mabye my dog bones are bad? Im getting FPP ones soon

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well i orderd a modulator and decided to come home and really check my engine movement, see what you all think...im thinkning new dogbones now....hopefully not lower mounts, but So i have an idea, how do you replace lowers, just support the engine and bolt on and off

 

http://media.putfile.com/movment-2

 

http://media.putfile.com/Movment-

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I think so. I've not noticed any 95.5+ ones that were actually bad, but about 1/2 or 95.5 down ones are. (From years of salvage experience) i think it is because there is much less rubber availible to rot.

 

they use the same engine side mounts and nuts and bolts, but are integrated into the front brace that bolts to the radiator support. so to change you grab the 95.5+ and it uses pre-existing holes on your support.

Same top two holes, and the lower one, you will have to grease a bolt and force it to turn into the hole.. the old mounts vertical surface uses two front bolts, the new one has the hole between were the old ones were. it is predrilled between the original two holes.

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