ExZion Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 I am about to do a full tune up on my 94 cutlass supreme 3.1. I want to do oil,antifreeze,plugs,wires,and a fuel filter but i cannot seem to break the plugs loose any ideas? I am afraid of striping the aluminumn heads or breaking a plug since they are the orignals. I was also wondering if there are any easy ways to get to the back plugs??? Thanks Drew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 Try soaking the plugs in pentrant for a hour or so before you try removing them. When you put the new plugs in use antisieze on the threads, availible at any autostore. It is usually either a graphite or copper paste I buy the big 10 oz one with appplicator brush. (and I have used up two of them in 10 years) Also don't use bosch plugs, I use only ACdelcos. or even acdelco rapid fire would be good. The engine can be rotated. I have changed rear plugs without rotating before, it can be done. I use a ratchet strap, connect it to something solid like the lift point near the outlet pipe that returns to the top of the radiator, and connect the other end to the radiator's core support. Then disconnect the engine dogbone mounts, the ones that connect the engine to the top of the radiator core support. I prefer the take out the 13 mm bolts from the bracket ontop of the support and flip them back atop the engine. The strap will tilt and hold the engine forward, and I bring it forward until the engine (exhaust manifold to be specific, IIRC) contacts the fan brace and just a hair more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 Make sure your engine is cool when removing plugs, that's about all you can do from preventing damage removing plugs. Tilt the engine to get the ones in the back. They are tight but you will not break anything from removing them if they are original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExZion Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 ok i am gona try that tomarrow i am just scared of cracking or striping a head and i was thinking ac rapidfires but where can i get those wires at because of the long 'boot' to protect them from the heat. Also i would like them in blue 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supreme Cutlass Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. You could always just stick the bolt through the lobe on the right torque strut...that's what it's there for.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. I'm sorry. I misread that. I thought you were saying it was not possible to rotate, My Bad. Rotating is quicker, easier, and safer IMO and no need to disconnect the battery compared to removing tha alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. You could always just stick the bolt through the lobe on the right torque strut...that's what it's there for.... i could never get the bolt through that hole, theres something in the way, i cant remember exactly. So i just took the alt off, made it a bit better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. You could always just stick the bolt through the lobe on the right torque strut...that's what it's there for.... i could never get the bolt through that hole, theres something in the way, i cant remember exactly. So i just took the alt off, made it a bit better. on ur TGP? I never had a problem puting the bolt through the hole on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 I never could get my bolt hole thing to line up either... actaully. So now i have a rachet strap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 i used a board behind the altenator and forced it forward till it got to the hole and stuck the bolt in, 2 person job to do that tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastbird232 Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 I could never get the engine to even get that far forward on my '89 SE. I put the trans in neutral, disconnected the exhaust, got everything I could possibly see out of the way, and it would ONLY rotate halfway there (which was good enough, but kinda nervewracking wondering if the tow strap was going to let go and crush my hand behind the engine). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 tow strap???? a rachet strap locks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 If you can't rotate the engine. Many of us unhook the battery and remove the alternator to get to the back plugs. No you can. It's just a matter of having a way to hold it forward. that is where the rachet strap comes in. You could always just stick the bolt through the lobe on the right torque strut...that's what it's there for.... i could never get the bolt through that hole, theres something in the way, i cant remember exactly. So i just took the alt off, made it a bit better. on ur TGP? I never had a problem puting the bolt through the hole on mine yes sorry, on the tgp something was getting in the way of the dogbone, its not like i couldnt push it enuff, the dogbone was just hitting something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 Wow it's so hard to tilt the engine... my method really should be in the FAQs 1. undo the bolt to each dogbone 2. With someone holding the brake down, or if your e-brake works 100%, start the car and put in reverse. The engine will tilt forward. 3. Slide bolt through the mount, giving it more throttle to futher tilt engine if nessesary 4. Put car back in park, shut off engine. Now you're ready to work and not tired from yanking on the engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 ahh, but i wasnt tired from yanking the engine, it just wouldnt work capn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExZion Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 OK i just did plugs and wires and now the car runs like shit wtf did i do wrong????? I used AC delco plugs and Autolite Wires and the belt tensioner is slaping forward when i get on it alittle. Also it's idleing at 1500 WTF please help.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 check to make sure you did not disconnect any vacuum hoses such as the ones near the MAP sensor on the rear of the engine. Is the check engine light on now? Assuming it wasn't before, btw? And are you certain you did not cross any spark plug wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExZion Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 I am pretty shure we have the fireing order dead on but idk about vacuum hoses let me check and no the check engine light does not come on. ill brb in 5 mins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 p.s. are you certain the bulb works. btw? it should illuminate with key on engine off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExZion Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 I am now thinking we have the fireing order off any one know what it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 1 2 3 4 5 6 actually lol 1,3,5 are on the rear bank, 1 on the passanger side, 5 on the driver 2,4,6 are on the front bank. 2 on pass, 6 on driv. the bank across the top of the of the coils drivers side to passenger side is: 1,4 6,3 2,5 THis would of coure be your view if you were looking thought the windsheild, btw. And the numbers should be printed on the OEM coils if they are still present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john99gtp Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 165432 or something like that, i know itsin order, but since it starts with 1 it throws it ff and the front cylinders are 1-3-5 (left to right while facing engine) on the coils, they are matched with the opposing cylinder (so 1 is with 4, 2 is with 5, and 3 is with 6) (i think) EDIT: My info is neither wrong nor right, I gave it for a 90* V6 instead of a 60* V6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ExZion Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 Ok thanks guys the car runs perfectly now and the way it came apart(its a virgin never touched since new) is completely backwards becuase 5 was the shortest wire on the back side and it ran to what is #1 but any way thanks the car runs Oil Change tomarrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 john99gtp, You made me pull the manual!!!! it is 1-2-3-4-5-6 the rest of the info you gave is correct. The coils share firing with the exact opposed cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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