94 Olds 3.1 Engine Swap

[Prospeeder]

gotta replace the entire sensor, theres a write up in the FAQ section i think

[94Ragtop]

Thanks, I will search for it. Also thanks for the info onthe Spark trouble shoot, I might have started to take wires and the coils off etc. before even looking for the crank case position sensor. I hope they didn't chew other areas. I hate rodents.

[Crazy K]

You must rotate the engine for extra clearance.

 

I use a ratchet strap, connect it to sopmething solid like the lift point near the outlet pipe that returnd to the top of the radiator, and connect the other end to the radiator's core support. Then disconnect the engine dogbone mounts, the ones that connect the engine to the top of the radiator core support. I prefer the take out the 13 mm bolts from hte brakcet ontop of the support and flip[ them back atop the engine. The strap will tilt and hold the engine forward, and I bring it forward until the engine (exhaust manifold to be specific, IIRC) contacts the fan brace and just a hair more.

 

be careful removing the Cranks sensor as they are brittle with age. Spin them alot. I broke my first one and had to pull it out by the metal contact with a vice grip. Someone has used a heated (torched) wood srew to melt into the plastic, let it cool and then pulled, but others have said that they have had to drop the oil pan when one really gets broken and stuck. My fair word of warning, Good LUCK

[94Ragtop]

Thanks again. I wouldn't even think of rotating the engine but it makes sense now. I will post a pic of the car when I figure it out. Also taking pics as I work on it.

Mike

[Crazy K]

if it makes you feel better, I read in some online auto survey about someone who thought it was rediculous that they would have to pull the engine to change the rear plugs on a 3.1 (not 3100, same block, larger intake manifold to rear) engine. Stupid!!! Even if you get a cheap service manual like haynes and that is described in there, IIRC.

[94Ragtop]

I don't mind having to do things like rotating the engine. I bought the car because I've allways wanted one these and really like the way it drives. I haven't worked on the car yet and am more comfortable with rear wheel drive. Once I get used to working on the FWD I'll like it even more. I think once I pull the trans to replace it every thing else will be a piece of cake. Researching performance options, I liked the Idea of finding a supercharged 3800 but I'm finding that may not be necessary to get more power.

Mike

[Crazy K]

I think you should run the life of what you have under the hood. The reliablilty of what you have is fine. If you were to upgrade i would do a 3400 top swap on your car instead. Thats to say... if you were looking in J/Y and found a bad 3400 in say a 2000-2005 impala or something you could get the heads and intake for the swap.

 

That is what i would do to upgrade a 3100.

[94Ragtop]

I am glad I found this forum!! I replaced the wire to the CPS and now I have an engine again! Yes I am having a beer. I still need to deal with this transmission. FYI, the engine leaks a small amount of oil from the valve covers and the cover on the front of the engine Not even noticeable at oil changes intervals but anoying, is this stuff (gaskets) easy to clean up while the engine is in the car or should I pull the engine mate the new trans and do all of the gaskets while it is out and clean it all up then. Can't wait to do the tranny now!

Thanks.

Mike

[Crazy K]

Are you gals you listened to me? you didn't need an engine afterall.

 

It is your call. I have changed all the gaskets while the engine is in the car, but tilting the engine forward would again be necessary to change the rear valve cover gasket.

 

Also a known problem on our cars is the distributor drive gear gasket leaks(it is only a oil pump drive on our cars), it is located beneath the throttle body and you can look in FAQ for more info if you think it needs service.

 

If you have to take the upper plenum off, I always change the injector O-rings. Get this thing going down the road ASAP!

 

Good Oil and a quality (NOT FRAM) oil filter will also help. I use ACDelco filters and sparkplugs only. I also add a magnetic oil plug to suck particles out of the oil.

[94Ragtop]

Yes I am glad. Done for today and having another beer. ( Home for the night) I think I want to get the transmission in and look for those 3400 2000-2005 Impalla heads. (I like that idea) This way I can use the car in the meantime unless I notice oil dripping (so far it's just a weep around the gaskets) I can do all of the gaskets with the new heads and intake. I need to figure out how to drop the subframe and swap the transmission. Does it drop immeaditally or does the suspension hold it? Do I need to support the sub frame while undoing it? I have a hoist to hold up the engine. I see four bolts on the frame but not sure the best way to undo the struts. I guess I can plan on the exhaust bolts to break? I guess if I just stop looking at it and get into it It won't be so bad. I just don't like suprises.

[Crazy K]

It drops. AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! GET IT OFF!!!! GET IT OFF!!!! that is from personal experience. need I say more?

 

you do have to support it. The bolts on the frame are 15mm, you want to make sure they aren't frozen by turning them all in and out about a turn. I have broken a subframe bolt, the way the nuts in the body are held, a frozen bolt will turn about 1/8 of a turn. If any bolt requires too much force, don't try to break it loose.

 

In fact, since you have a lift, you should do exactly what was done in that picture, and raise the entire thing out of the top, it is much simplier.

 

and just like he did, the wires can be disconnected and teid to the top of the engine.

 

I think the entire enigne harness (except for battery cables and grounding strap(s), goes right to a firewall connector behind the alternator. as long as your engine lift is capable of lifting the wieght.