94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I am new to this forum. Is there a way to search this forum so I don't ask a question that has been answered? I am going to remove my engine and transmission completely to install working ones. Can it be pulled out as one unit? I am not sure as how to remove them. Do they come out the top or out from under? I am looking for a detailed proceedure hopefuly with pictures because I tend to remove more parts than I have to. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I don't think that a DETAILED writeup has been done, I'd like to see one as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 ditto. I know the whole frame could be dropped and carted around with the engine and tranny attached... if you happened to have a good doner with a good frame :shock: If my brother were to trash his (really MY) 94 CS, I would transplant the guts into the 91 vert. frame and all if I must. You can take the engine and tranny out of the top if you have a hoist. I think you must remove the master cylinder and disconnect all the lines. and remove the radiotor fans and radiator (to avoid damaging it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 if you had the tools to do it, I think a cradle drop would be the easiest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have an engine hoist and a garage to do it in. I'm not sure as to how high I need lift the car up onto stands. After removing the sub frame how to control it dropping down? Do the struts need to be removed from the top or the bottom? How much of the front wheel axels etc have to be torn down? I have a manual soon so mabe its detailed in there. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 Would the engine swap be the same amount of work approx. if a Bonneville or similar 3800 doner car was found? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihela816 Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 A Regal donor car would be much, much easier because there would be no wiring or mounting issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I would also like to know how high approx you have to lift the car to slide out the old engine from the bottem (approx) ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihela816 Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I'd imagine 2-2 1/2 ft. You'd still have to remove the radiator and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 What years for the Regal? Is there an Olds 3800 compatable? I have a 1994 Cutlass Conv. with a 3.1 4T60E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 What years for the Regal? Is there an Olds 3800 compatable? I have a 1994 Cutlass Conv. with a 3.1 4T60E. actually to clarify... the 94 SHOULD have a 3100, it's first year of production in your vehicle(or any W-body). the 3.1 is a different motor. it is the predessor to the 3100. it was last put in the CS in 93. Do you already have a new engine and tranny to go in? what from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I've located a 95 Cutlass Supreme 4 door that is supposed to have a Jasper engine and trans. He wants $800 with a 90 day warranty for both not seperated. He can't confirm the mileage after they were installed. I am trying to do some research before I buy them. I have also been looking for other donor cars. At least I learned there is a difference in the 3.1 and 3100. I am glad I found this site for the other related info I am finding. This interested me. But it's probably too much $$ 3800 Series II Supercharged (L67) - Awesome motor, possibly the highest potential of all the motors. Easy 300HP, runs the 1/4-mile in high 14s stock, known to run a 13.1s@105mph 1/4-mile with mods. Excellent low-end torque. Excellent fuel economy. Iron heads and block make it very durable. Has features found only on race engines like cross-bolted (4-bolt) caps. Has low-friction needle-bearing rockers and roller cam. Fits into any 1988+ W-body using stock motor mount locations for 2.8L/3.1L engines. Swapping in the 4T65-E HD (MN7), all belt-driven accessories, and all associated wiring/computer is required. There are more performance parts for this engine than any other W-body compatible engine. Manual transaxle cannot be mated to this engine without a custom fabricated flywheel. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 before we continue... how many miles are on your CS and are both the engine and tranny bad? How do you know they are bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have 133000 miles on it and the trans whines and slips when it was running. now after sitting the engine won't start. It will crank overand actually puffed a small amount of smoke out of the exhaust very lightly then stopped. I also noticed the antifreeze is very dark. I haven't done a compression test yet, I am looking to buy the set up. I thought it would be easier for me to just swap out the engine and tranny and put the old one on the stand to mabe build later. Having never looked into a trans. I thought it would be interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 Oh come on! it's just being broken in! (said by the man with 207000 miles on a car that is on it's return trip from the moon as we speak) IMO that is too low a mileage to have many problems. I think your engine is fine, it just needs the problem is is having resolved. As for the tranny.... it might be fine if you were to change the fluid, but if you have done that already, then it may be it's time. I don't know how much of a mechanic or expert you may be, but In My Opinion: Just becasue you see some smoke coming from an engine or the coolant looks dark doesn't mean it is cooked... I think you are more liable to get into a can of worms by getting a used engine with unknown mileage, that 'might' be rebuilt. How long has it sat? if has been long enough for the gas to go bad it may need a fuel pump, not an engine. I also think you should test the engine for spark. If it sparks see if it will run on starting fluid. I could get an engine and tranny cheaper, but for a pair of jasper rebuilds for $800 seems a good price if they really are rebuilt and if it wasn't 150,000 miles ago. But I recommend making sure you need them. You'd be beating yourself silly if the engine problem turned out to be a fuel pump after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 The fluid and filter were changed about 10,000 miles before it failed. There was metallic specs in the fluid. When it was running the car would have to warm up and as soon as I heard it start whining is when I could put it in gear to move it. As far as starting it. I was thinking of checking the cold start soleniod if there is one also when I crank it over and then check the fuel bar for pressure it sprays out but I don't know what the proper pressure should be. Thinking of getting a guage to check it also. I was also thinking of pulling the fuel injectors to see if they are carboned up. I guess it is also possible to get spark to only a few cylinders which would cause it to only puff along with out starting? It looked to me that pulling the engine with the transmission would be easier than getting the tranny out. Never having done either I'm not sure, it looked real tight in there to reach the trans housing bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 ok thats better info, You do need a transmission. it soulnd like the same probelm my 91 CS has, I can get it to go if i raise one wheel and run it in gear for a moment, before I try to actually move it! But I think you should fix the engine first..... Spark test every plug wire, if they all have spark, You may have a fuel delivery probelm. Try spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while someone else cranks the engine, and see if it runs. If any of the wires don't spark there are a few things it could be. If two of four don;t spark most likley you have a bad coil, or possible the electronic module they are mounted on. if all six fail to spark, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is out. I test of spark by laying the plug end of the wire with a screwdriver inserted ontop of the engine. do that to all six and tell us what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 pulling everything out the top is easy. you don't have to remove the master cylinder (however i did not have ABS) or radiator. the hardest part is pulling the axles out but that isn't really that hard anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 i'd like to note that in that pic the entire engine and transmission along with the entire wiring harness with engine computer is attached. It could be done this way and the wires transfered to the new engine and/or trans and reinstalled that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 Thanks for the info on the Spark, I will do some of that this weekend and respond. I work nights. Nice photo with the hoist. So you can remove the axels with out removing the wheels? If I end up pulling the engine and trans, I will document with pictures and post them. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 14, 2006 Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 You have to access the axle nuts (Which you can do with steel rims, or utilizing the spare tire) to loosen the rims. You would have to take the tire off and probably disconnect the ball joints... You could remove both the stafts, and then stick the the balljoint back in it's socket and put the wheel back on. I did that for one dead car.... But I don't know if that may be damaging to the wheel bearings, as the car i did it to was toast. anyone else have a thought on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted January 14, 2006 Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 nah i put the wheels back on after i had the axles pulled out. since the car wasn't going to move i wasn't too worried about damaging the hubs. you definately don't want to move the car without axles in the hubs. i have a spare set of axles i'm going to pull apart so that i have some outer CV joints that i can put back in the hubs just in case i want to move the car with no drivetrain (such as towing the car to the carwash to clean the engine bay while it's empty). i did that with my old Lebaron GTS and it worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 Thanks, I was concerned about being able to roll the car out of the garage to work on someting else should I have to work on another vehicle. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 14, 2006 Report Share Posted January 14, 2006 reinsert outer edge of junk cv joints, good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Ragtop Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 Quote "Spark test every plug wire, if they all have spark, You may have a fuel delivery probelm. Try spraying some starting fluid into the throttle body while someone else cranks the engine, and see if it runs. If any of the wires don't spark there are a few things it could be. If two of four don;t spark most likley you have a bad coil, or possible the electronic module they are mounted on. if all six fail to spark, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is out. " I tried cranking the engine and while cranking sprayed a little starter fluid. It sputtered a couple of times and tried to idle then quit. I pulled the wires individually and checked each one and then found no spark at all. As I went to look for the Crank position sensor I turned the black covering and noticed it had been chewed on by something as I pulled a little it actually broke. Now how in the __ do you reach the Crank Position sensor my wrists do no flex that way! I hope I can just replace the wire. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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