Crazy K Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 I have purchased three j/y HUDS and am keeping an eye out for more. I will have no problem with the ones for for the 94 and 91 CS, of course... But I am intersted in seeing what people may have done to install the HUD in 90-94 luminas, or regals, or newer style non-gp dashed gen 1 or 1.5 cars. I have a the HUDs and switches. 94 CS HUD to go into the 94 or 91 CS 97 GP HUD I want to go into my 95 CS and a 91-93 GP HUD to attempt to install into my 92 lumina. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 you should sell me one, preferrably the older style one ;-) (or find me another) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 I'm greedy. If I found more I would mount 2 per car. lol The truth? I still need two more actually! :shock: Yeah i would sell extras if I found them. I have bought every one I've seen at the j/y. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 where are you at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 11, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 cleveland ohio I plan the mount the gp hud switch beneath the dash in my lumina, to the right of tpanel beneath the column. and remove it's red bulb as needed, or not illuminating if neccesary... I may consider mounting hud beneath the dashpad, or on top. Perhaps lighting through the speak hole or the suface as nesessary. By friday I will have the wires in. then all thats left is to install the unit into the dash pad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 the hud wont fit under the pad on the 90-94 luminas. have to cut a hole in the dash. mines about 1 1/2" away from the defroster(need a new pad, hole too big, cut a little closer to defroster). that rear V on the hud's metal bracket sits atop the gauge cluster w/1"- 1 1/2" padding so it has the proper height to view. you will have to hack out the speaker mounting on that side so it can fit. thats is why i got the bose panels and the 3.5" speakers. here is where i mounted the dimmer; http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v496/bokkire_jin/misc_pics/dimmer.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 also, i might still have the pic of my 1st dash pad w/ the hud in it(though its backwards......) on my cardomain, on the second page. http://www.cardomain.com/id/crimson_fury_z34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 11, 2006 Report Share Posted January 11, 2006 I have yet to mount my dimmer switch under the dash, but I'll get around to it. It's fully hooked up and works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 12, 2006 Report Share Posted January 12, 2006 my other option on the dimmer mounting would've been above the console cubby, but i didn't think the cable would reach, so it ended up where it is now. my install is pretty much like 93luminaz34's, except i cut out the speaker mount so it would fit in better, and its closer to the windshield. theres about a total of 1/2" open space on the sides, and 1/2"-3/4" space on the overhang. i'll get pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have yet to mount my dimmer switch under the dash, but I'll get around to it. It's fully hooked up and works well. That would look so much better if you built up the dash with some fiberglass around the HUD/made a custom enclosure(removeable of course so you could remove the HUD easily if need be). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted January 13, 2006 Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 I have yet to mount my dimmer switch under the dash, but I'll get around to it. It's fully hooked up and works well. That would look so much better if you built up the dash with some fiberglass around the HUD/made a custom enclosure(removeable of course so you could remove the HUD easily if need be). ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2006 still working on the project. have some ideas... wondering... I have a GP pod that I suppose i will have to cut down, and since it is raised, I could make it sit higher than the CS's pod. still have to work on clearance, but first I am going to wire it in. Now for a 'How did you wire it?' question. I have come up with a solution, but I'm asking what you did, however. Have either of you wired in ALL the indicators in the display? The main baffling ones would be the gas indicator, and check guages light. The feed wires for those on the cars with a HUD are fed from the cluster. THey recieve the signal from a 'solid state' cicuit/device. It is exactly the same way that the temp guage climbs and turns the light on when it reaches the end of it's range. As the circuit nears twelve volts(theoretically speaking, it may vary) it closes the switch on a secondary circuit to light an indicator. and htis same circuit would be what feeds to the HUD. My solution is to solder the wires to the back of the light bulb 'twist-ins' to feed these (although the lumina doesn't have a low fuel light ) To feed the Check guages, several wires could be run, each with a diode to prevent back feeding. They would then splice together such that when any of temperature, low oil pressure, low coolant, or other critical bulbs turn on, it will illuminate the indicator, without lighting the others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 The HUD is now working, but I have not cut a hole for the unit, or mounted the switch. tomorrow, perhaps. I had issues along the way. I had an wrong wirng diagram and accidently shot voltage into the interior dimming backlights incorrectly after trying to diagnose an error that was crossfeeding electricity into the wrong circuits. I determined that I ruined my headlight switch. Everything but interior dimming does work, however. It turns out that I was using a CS HUD diagram for my GP HUD and two of the wires on the switch are crossed between them. I have hooked up the check engine wire from the HUD to the low coolant wire. I have not connected the low fuel light or the eng/met switch(soon to do). But I have now found the info I need. The 'solid state' stuff i was talking about utilizes "Zener diode" technology. it is a diode that only allows electricity to flow in one direction, and only allows electricity to pass once it has reached a threshold. If i can get some with a pass value of 10 volts I will link them to the oil and coolant light to see what happens. this way if the oil pressure, or coolant temp or level becomes low the HUD will illuminate! speedo, turnsignal and high bean indicator now work fine about zener diodes: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/solids/zener.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 I think getting a check gauges and low fuel output to the HUD from a car that never had it would be difficult, even with what you are proposing to do. Honestly, i don't think it would even be worth it... how often would those even come on? For all that work which may or may not be sucessful? Not to downtrodden you, but it seems pointless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 HelP mE! heLP Me! I'm being downtrodden!!! It all goes with having crazy in my name! I think in the end, this is what I have decided to do. I could do the Zener Diode, but instead, I will just connect a wire to the hot side of the bulbs for the coolant temp, oil pressure, and oh... alternator light. I will add one normal diode to each wire, before they merge together, and link to the HUD's check engine light. The Diodes will prevent backfeeding of power through the other lights in the set, so that only the proper light will light, and along with the HUD. and just forget about the fuel light. You are correct, the GP and CS have outputs built in on the connector for the HUD. Which I plan to double check the circuit board on, just in case GM was thinking about HUD compatability when they made the Euro cluster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted January 15, 2006 Report Share Posted January 15, 2006 about zener diodes: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/solids/zener.html I learned all about Zener Diodes with my GTS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 i tapped into the gas light and it works fine, no diodes. the only wires i didn't use were the check gauges and u.s/metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 i tapped into the gas light and it works fine, no diodes. the only wires i didn't use were the check gauges and u.s/metric. You mean tapped into the fuel wire before it entered the cluster, or does your cluster have a low fuel light bulb you tapped into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 16, 2006 Report Share Posted January 16, 2006 Just tap into all the instrument cluster wires behind the cluster. I did that in mine and it works fine. I too, didn't use the check gauges, but I grounded the us/metric so it reads metric all the time being that I live in Canada. I didn't use any diodes and have no problem with backfeeding etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 yeah, all the appropriate wires are tapped behind the cluster harness via the Y wire tap connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 how did you guys run the adjustment cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted January 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 Just tap into all the instrument cluster wires behind the cluster. I did that in mine and it works fine. I too, didn't use the check gauges, but I grounded the us/metric so it reads metric all the time being that I live in Canada. I didn't use any diodes and have no problem with backfeeding etc. AGAIN the reason for diodes is to hook on the check guages light, so that multiple inputs will turn it on, with out the input giving false indicators to all the other bulbs on that circuit. For the person who hooked up the fuel indicator, did you tap into the wire to the guage or wire from the guage, or how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crimson Fury Z Posted January 17, 2006 Report Share Posted January 17, 2006 the wire to the gauge, from the cluster harness. 92 Petty, i got that link to the dimmer pic on the first page, and it runs from a hole in the left side of the dash down by the panel where the trunk lid button is. i drilled a hole for the harness to come through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 [quoteAGAIN the reason for diodes is to hook on the check guages light, so that multiple inputs will turn it on, with out the input giving false indicators to all the other bulbs on that circuit. I understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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