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Oil pressure gauge not working, need advice


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Posted

I just swapped out my Lumina's gauge cluster using one of stockgp's wiring adapters. I also swapped my oil/coolant sensors for the corresponding senders. So far, the coolant temp. guage works fine, but the oil pressure guage is not responding at all.

 

Did I miss a step? Any help is appreciated!

 

-GMJ

Posted

It's one of the mysteries of the UB3. My UB3 always reads full as well, and my car came with full analog gauges originally, so it couldn't be a sender, so I dunno.

Posted

Sorry, forgot to mention this:

 

I had the base analog guages, and swapped in the full analog guage set.

Posted

read FAQ referencing Lumina guages. The person who made your adapter may have made one compatable to the euro guage cluster that has an oil light and not a guage.

There is only one pin difference between the two cluster. PM me if you need more info.

Posted

Well, that wouldn't explain why mine doesn't work. I sent Dan the pinouts myself, specifically for a 94 with analog gauges. And I double checked everything he did. I couldn't see any reason why the gauge doesn't work.

 

I'm pretty sure there is something incompatable between the two clusters, because every 92+ car that I've seen with the UB3 swapped in doesn't have a working oil pressure gauge. One member that comes to mind is SupremeCutlass, but I've seen others as well. :?

Posted

NOPE. On the lumina swap I did it works fine.

 

The way the guage works it that it reads higher as the volatage from the sending unit drops. No voltage = highest reading possible. So a misconnected wire would cause that.

Posted

Mine still doesn't work. Don't really care anymore...If there is a solution great, if not I'll watch it read over 80

Posted
http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36972

 

very simple. the wire in spot D-10 needs to be moved to spot C-13

 

Even simpler.... you can even just add a pin to spot C-13 and use a wire splice to connect it to the wire already in spot D-10

 

3pt1lumina, I ain't talking to you again if you don't get this fixed!!!!!

 

I have bigger problems to worry about now that the car won't even run on all 6 cylinders. (or at least it sounds this way)... I'll get it figured out, it's gonna take some time.

Guest Anonymous
Posted

mine always reads maxed out... always has and probably always will.

Posted

well if it's that there is a difference in one pin between euro's and other lumis, that's why they arent working. i go by pinouts from alldata 8.0, and there are only two diagrams; one for the base cluster, and one for the z cluster. Crazy K, thanks. i'll need to make a note of this.

 

for you two guys, i'll fix your adapters if you send them back to me, no problem.

Posted

3pt1lumina, Hey I was joking! You know that right? :D

 

stockgp, I think you may be able to make the wire diverge. so it goes to both ports without a problem. (or do a cut here or here if necessary.) The unused socket is a dead socket.

if you have access to alldata.... got a question... PM...

 

 

Speaking of which.... If anyone had a guage that is reading pegged...

1 Is it not pegged when the car is off, key on? Replace the sending unit.

2 is it pegged car off, key on.... period? Wiring problem.

Posted
3pt1lumina, Hey I was joking! You know that right? :D.

 

Yeah dude!!! :D :wink: Trust me, takes a lot to get me mad.

Posted

if you had the the base gauges you have to change out the sending unit to get the oil psi gauge to work

Posted
if you had the the base gauges you have to change out the sending unit to get the oil psi gauge to work

exactly! But as i mention again...

If the guage remains pegged with the key on, engine off. You have a wiring problem. (although a defective sending unit could be at fault.)

Posted
I also swapped my oil/coolant sensors for the corresponding senders. -GMJ

 

make sure the clowns who sold you the oil pressure sending unit didn't sell you one for just the idiot light. from my experience the one for the gage is longer than the one for the idiot light. I had this happen to me for the temp sensor.

Posted

when i did this upgrade way back when in my ciera i had to try 3 times before they sold me the right sender for the temp gauge.

 

as for the oil psi, if you have the wrong one it will peg the gauge at all times.

Posted
if you had the the base gauges you have to change out the sending unit to get the oil psi gauge to work

 

did it

Posted
I also swapped my oil/coolant sensors for the corresponding senders. -GMJ

 

make sure the clowns who sold you the oil pressure sending unit didn't sell you one for just the idiot light. from my experience the one for the gage is longer than the one for the idiot light. I had this happen to me for the temp sensor.

 

For the oil pressure sender, I swapped out the sensor for this part:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=OPS125&parttype=417&ptset=A

 

For the coolant temperature, I purchased a GP Sorensen brand unit, part #TSU126. However, on the advance auto part website, that part is no longer listed. So, of the choices in the below link, which one do I need?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=290&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Coolant%20Temperature%20Sensor

Posted

I put the longer one in. That is the sender not the switch, correct? The one I took out is a short little dude.

Posted

For the oil pressure sender, I swapped out the sensor for this part:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=OPS125&parttype=417&ptset=A

That's your problem. That's a switch not a sensor. You just put the same thing in your car.

 

Actually, that is the right part. I went back to Advanced Auto and double checked it. The part inthe link above is the "oil pressure switch for use with guage" (as listed in their catalog). The only other choice is listed as "for use with light", which is the shorter one I just pulled out of my car.

Posted

For the oil pressure sender, I swapped out the sensor for this part:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=OPS125&parttype=417&ptset=A

That's your problem. That's a switch not a sensor. You just put the same thing in your car.

That is a Misnomer! The pic is of a sender, but they called it a switch.

 

AGAIN guys, send your parts back and he'll fix the problem.

 

AND AGAIN:

 

If the gauge remains pegged when the car is on but returns the 'zero' when the key is on but the car is not on, You have the wrong unit in your vehicle.

 

If the gauge remains pegged with the key on , engine running or not. You have either a bad switch/sender, or a bad wire. (the bad wire would come to play if you did a repin and got the oil wire in the spot on the cluster harness!)

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