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power cable size ?


oldspwr

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I have a 94 cutty and currently have 4 gauge power wire through the grommet at the firewall, but i need bigger power cables what is the biggest size cable that'll fit through the grommet? i'm looking to upgrade to 1/0 gauge cable or bigger. If that cant fit through the grommet is it safe to route the cables under the car?

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just make it fit. I dont think it will fit either, you will probably have to bore it out a little. who sells ott for cheap? I want to do the same thing. because the cable I got is not quite getting enough juice back to keep the deepcycle charged and feed the JL

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I had plenty of room for 4g wire + 8g wire and then some. 1/0 g wire should fit. (atleast on mine it would :shrug: ) but aslong as you have somethingto protect the wire when its under the car, shouldnt really be an issue

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I have a 94 cutty and currently have 4 gauge power wire through the grommet at the firewall, but i need bigger power cables what is the biggest size cable that'll fit through the grommet? i'm looking to upgrade to 1/0 gauge cable or bigger. If that cant fit through the grommet is it safe to route the cables under the car?

How much power are you running? Because I am running 1000rms between two amps on 4 guage and have no issues at all.

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just make it fit. I dont think it will fit either, you will probably have to bore it out a little. who sells ott for cheap? I want to do the same thing. because the cable I got is not quite getting enough juice back to keep the deepcycle charged and feed the JL

 

I dont really even know what the going price is for 0 guage but just with a quick glance i found this at eD I believe it is Tsunami wire.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/wire_cat.php?catid=31

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i'm running 2 jbl bp1200.1 amps which is (2) 1200x1, each one takes 120 amp fuses on the amp itself the 4 ga is not appropriate for this application more like 1/0 is best suited for my needs because of the approx 18foot of wire.

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i'm running 2 jbl bp1200.1 amps which is (2) 1200x1, each one takes 120 amp fuses on the amp itself the 4 ga is not appropriate for this application more like 1/0 is best suited for my needs because of the approx 18foot of wire.

 

DAMN!!!!! :lol:

 

0 guage is a must...lol.....I pitty you charging system.

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Everyone thinks i'm highbeaming them at night cause the music dances with all the lights :shock: and yes i do have cap make that 2 caps i might need more.

 

well in a case like that I would say the cap is doing you more harm than good. Have you addressed the "Big 3" or the charging system or battery yet?

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The alternator is new and the battery is about a year old. When i first had the system it was fine but about 4 months later thats when my lights started to dim and the voltmeter dips deep in the red zone.

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The alternator is new and the battery is about a year old. When i first had the system it was fine but about 4 months later thats when my lights started to dim and the voltmeter dips deep in the red zone.

 

Just to give you and Idea of what I have went through......I was going through brand new alts like candy.....4 in 3 years. I finally upgraded its output....and still my batteries kept being drained...and that caused them to prematurelly fail. So I bought a red top optima, installed a 2 farad capacitor and upgraded all of my vital wires of the "Big 3", and havent had any problems in almost a year now. And my battery is maintaining a full charge now.

 

 

But Even at idle, sitting at a stop light my voltage dips into the red on the guage....I've sort of just come to the conclusion that there isnt much more I can do to stop this.

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you can get a cs-130-d alternator. I dont know if you have tried one, but they really cool off well and are pretty much as big as you can go with the stock hood. They put out charge longer without overheating and mine does 65 amps at idle I think, but I will go check that. dont quote me yet, I just got a new digital voltmeter so I can check that shit now 8) $20 on sale,normally $44.

 

 

But even at 65 amps max output at idle IF it could do it for any length of time, The JL 1000 has a 100A circuit breaker and can pull every bit of it and then some leaving the battery to fend for itself.

 

Also I dont know much about e-wire but it seems like other high current accessories have e-wires going to them, starter, alt, isolater.....why does the cap not have one?

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When i dont use my system the volts are normal, i dont have any problems with starting or charging. So I dont think its the alternator, could be it is underpowered but thats where the caps come in. I have to test my caps to see if they are properly working, i think thats my problem. I should've spent the money on good caps in the beginning i knew they were gonna come back and haunt me, especially with amount of amps the jbl's draw. And i have to eliminate by bottleneck which is the 4 ga power cable. I have (2) 1 farad caps right now wired in series. I might go with the rockford cap thats like 5 farads.

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When i dont use my system the volts are normal, i dont have any problems with starting or charging. So I dont think its the alternator, could be it is underpowered but thats where the caps come in. I have to test my caps to see if they are properly working, i think thats my problem. I should've spent the money on good caps in the beginning i knew they were gonna come back and haunt me, especially with amount of amps the jbl's draw. And i have to eliminate by bottleneck which is the 4 ga power cable. I have (2) 1 farad caps right now wired in series. I might go with the rockford cap thats like 5 farads.

See that right there is the issue.......The general rule of thumb for car audio is that capacitors will do you more harm than good if you dont have enough current in the charging system. Because they just add additional strain on the alternator. And thats why I would say upgrade the "big three" and the alternator. Changing or adding capacitors arent going to solve you issues. They are caused by a lack of power and capcitors only store power...They still have to be recharged by your alternator.

 

And if you do upgrade the main power wire to 0 guage...Your voltage will still drop to what ever the voltage of your battery is because the power will flow from your battery to your amps faster than it can flow from your alternator to your battery.

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When i dont use my system the volts are normal, i dont have any problems with starting or charging. So I dont think its the alternator, could be it is underpowered but thats where the caps come in. I have to test my caps to see if they are properly working, i think thats my problem. I should've spent the money on good caps in the beginning i knew they were gonna come back and haunt me, especially with amount of amps the jbl's draw. And i have to eliminate by bottleneck which is the 4 ga power cable. I have (2) 1 farad caps right now wired in series. I might go with the rockford cap thats like 5 farads.

See that right there is the issue.......The general rule of thumb for car audio is that capacitors will do you more harm than good if you dont have enough current in the charging system. Because they just add additional strain on the alternator. And thats why I would say upgrade the "big three" and the alternator. Changing or adding capacitors arent going to solve you issues. They are caused by a lack of power and capcitors only store power...They still have to be recharged by your alternator.

 

And if you do upgrade the main power wire to 0 guage...Your voltage will still drop to what ever the voltage of your battery is because the power will flow from your battery to your amps faster than it can flow from your alternator to your battery.

thats why I am saying there has got to be a way to direct the power to what you are using the most current. Maybe solenoid the back battery but in a different way I did before. retain the 2 battery system with a new direction of power off the isolator. make it draw from the accessory power of the isolater and the 2 batteries off the primary. or get a 3 battery isolater and seperate wires and an ott going to the amp/cap!
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Ok, I went down to the welding supply place and apparently the measurements are different from car audio industry.because the 2 Ga monster cable I got is easily as fat as the 3 ott maybe 4 ott that they have there.its rated at 600 v but I dont think it is as good as car audio stuff and its like $4.25 a foot! It would definately work. I think this place is way inflated though. their 4 ga looks like 8 ga car wire. their 1/0 cable looks like 4 ga car, so different industry.

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