TGP and Optima Model

[Prospeeder]

Ok, i was woindering, i searched but didnt find what i was looking for

 

We all know the TGP has some serious drain off the electrical system, Power seats, windows, Locks, PM3, lights, and more! i use anything and my headlights everything dim, and people occasionally have the problem where there would be so much drag on the system when stopping PM3, headlights, tail lights, sound system that they would stall out and ud have to restart them, now, Iv read That Yellow top optimas wont last long in regular applications, as in no insane system, so do cure or help this problem I (or all TGP owners) have, would a Yellow or Red top be a better choice, and what series fits under our strange wiper washer bottle? im looking into batteries soon, so

[Garrett Powered]

just get the best AC Delco battery you can fit in there. But if you want a red top they are alright I ran one for a few years. you got to cut around the terminal on the battery box, plus they co$t, so just forget about it. not worth it.

 

TGPs came stock with the best battery available, ac delco. thats all I know.

[pwmin]

the yellow top might help that. i would also do the "big 3" wiring upgrade. that should help out a lot.

[90_Black_TGP]

I have an old wally world highend battery in my TGP...for a couple of reasons. one- you cant see it anyhow. two- no matter what you get it isn't going to last long so you might as well have a kick ass warranty. I think I spent $50 or so on a 5 year battery and I trade it back in for a new one at least once a year because my TGP sucked the life out of it. The car had an Interstate in it when I bought it and it too only lasted about a year. I had never heard it before, but since Ive owned the car one of the questions people ask me is "...have many electrical problems? All pontiacs have electrical problems..." but so far, mine just eats batteries and starters.

[Prospeeder]

not ALL pontiacs have electrical problems, its mostly just grand ams and sunfires, But i Have an intertsate my car came with right now, its been through HELL and still starts my car in a second or 2, even in the dead cold,l its been dead many times from stupid shit like the interior lights in the back seat staying on, its the light dimming and stalling occasionally from overly bogging down the electrical system that bothers me, it starts right up easy sure, but its still annoying and eberassing

[dkorinko]

When I had my TGP I had a red top in it...and every once and awhile it would still when coming to a stop, I didnt think it was the battery that was causing this but I guess I could have been wrong? But like I said, even with the red top, my car would still do it every once and awhile, just learn to drive with both feet lol, and when you come to a stop, keep your right foot just a little on the gas

[skalor]

I know on my TGP it idles great and the lights are bright as long as I don't have the brake pedal pushed. There was recall on the brake light switch for drawing too much current. So, I plan on doing that this winter along with a bunch of other little stuff. Maybe try that out to see if that might be your problem.

[Prospeeder]

I know on my TGP it idles great and the lights are bright as long as I don't have the brake pedal pushed. There was recall on the brake light switch for drawing too much current. So, I plan on doing that this winter along with a bunch of other little stuff. Maybe try that out to see if that might be your problem.

Really?! thats my Problem mostly is brake pedal pressing just sucks all the power, Dahs lights, head lights, interior lights, they ALL dim when i press the brake, but also like, if use the seats while just idling it will dim just the interior lights, thats it, mabye this recall is somthing to look into if its not to exspensive

[skalor]

I thought I read something about that at one time, but I can't seem to find it now. I was thinking of overdriving the alternator so the amperage would be higher at idle speeds. I was also think that it might be a good idea to get one from a Quad4 as I've heard they were designed for higher RPMs and then underdriving them wouldn't put as much strain on the bearings.

[Guest Anonymous]

You know, i've wondered about this myself. I'm in the same situation as you, i've got so much factory stuff running off the alternator, i'm afraid to put the foglights on. I feel like I cant use the radio and bagphone at the same time.

[RareGMFan]

This sounds more like an alternator problem than a battery one. I think it's rather silly that GM threw in the same 105 amp alternator regardless of option packages/amount of electronics eating up power. Every 6000 STE I've owned has had the same issue. My first base model, strippy 6000 with the Iron Duke, however, did not have this problem. Iceberg alternators makes a 140 amp version in our same casing, and has a much better cooling system, and they now have a 170 amp version. That may be an upgrade worth doing, and it really isn't much more than what most decent parts stores charge for "new" alternators. Check out the upgrade to the CS-144 style alternator, too, which is supposed to make more power at idle than our CS-130.

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm

[dbtk2]

just get the best AC Delco battery you can fit in there. But if you want a red top they are alright I ran one for a few years. you got to cut around the terminal on the battery box, plus they co$t, so just forget about it. not worth it.

 

TGPs came stock with the best battery available, ac delco. thats all I know.

 

I have a red top in my STE and my dad has one in his TGP. No cutting of any sort was required. Just removed the washer bottle, pulled old battery out, set optima in, put washer bottle on. Its that easy. You just have to get the little red top. The thing about the optimas is they're supposed to take like half the power to charge them as other batteries so it puts less strain on your alternator. Even with my UD pulley on my STE, when I stop the lights don't dim or anything, before I had the red top they would dim like crazy and the engine would bog way down and stall sometimes and this was without the UD pulley. I am nothing but ecstatic about my red top, I love it.

 

Shawn

[Garrett Powered]

I can drive all night in the rain with all accessoeies going ,all lights, 1300 watts at moderate level and the rear window defogger and the brake pedal lights dont draw too much current because they are LED. But that is after working on it every day for 3 years. it does not come easy.

[Garrett Powered]

Check out the upgrade to the CS-144 style alternator, too, which is supposed to make more power at idle than our CS-130.

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm

 

the cs 144 will not fit I dont think. Maybe. I looked at one installed in a old 80s buick and it had a custom bracket. the 130-d is your best bet. the guy that helped me with mine had the 144 in that old buick and it was a sweet looking install. total custom clean shit. it definately would be hard to fit in a TGP, mostly just V-8 equipped GMs or old Buicks 8)

[RareGMFan]

Check out the upgrade to the CS-144 style alternator, too, which is supposed to make more power at idle than our CS-130.

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm

 

the cs 144 will not fit I dont think. Maybe. I looked at one installed in a old 80s buick and it had a custom bracket. the 130-d is your best bet. the guy that helped me with mine had the 144 in that old buick and it was a sweet looking install. total custom clean shit. it definately would be hard to fit in a TGP, mostly just V-8 equipped GMs or old Buicks 8)

 

Normally, no, they wouldn't fit. But the ones in that link are custom designed to be a direct fit for many cars from '90 - '95, it says.

[Garrett Powered]

they are pretty massive, you would probably need a cowl hood to get it to shut.

[dbtk2]

I can drive all night in the rain with all accessoeies going ,all lights, 1300 watts at moderate level and the rear window defogger and the brake pedal lights dont draw too much current because they are LED. But that is after working on it every day for 3 years. it does not come easy.

 

Thats what I'm saying. I have done no work to anything on it other than installing an optima. It has a stock alternator (not the original one, but a stock replacement), and even with an FFP UD pulley (18% underdrive) and all my accessories running, wipers, lights (which on an STE is a LOT of lights), defrost, rear defogger, etc..., when I step on the brakes nothing dims, even when the accumulator pump motor runs. I don't have any 1300 watts being pulled from an amp or anything because I don't see the need to go deaf, but with all my accessories running it has no problems so its good enough for me. (and STE's have a LOT of accessories)

 

Shawn

[Prospeeder]

would the 170 amp CS-130 wich is a direct replacment be overkill? or would the 140 be good, and this CS-144, it IS a direct replacment for my Alt, it will fit under the hood, use the same brakets, and the same plug? I might go for that if so, but whats so much better about it than a 140-170 CS-130

[GP1138]

I just gotta say, I love my Red Top.

[Garrett Powered]

would the 170 amp CS-130 wich is a direct replacment be overkill? or would the 140 be good, and this CS-144, it IS a direct replacment for my Alt, it will fit under the hood, use the same brakets, and the same plug? I might go for that if so, but whats so much better about it than a 140-170 CS-130

 

NO,NO listen next time It is the CS-130-d that is going to be direct replacement that fits under the hood. It is available and guarantee the ones rare GM saw were 130-d because they come normally as 130-140 Amp, and build up to 165-170 amp with new bigger stater and HD parts .That is way better than a beefed up 130(non-D) <need the D-on the end which only can put out 150 amps for like 2 min. before overheating. tired of saying it so many times so get it right. 144 will not fit without cowl hood, but gohead try. any more Q's PM me.

 

Do the TGP justice and install one in your ride.

[RareGMFan]

would the 170 amp CS-130 wich is a direct replacment be overkill? or would the 140 be good, and this CS-144, it IS a direct replacment for my Alt, it will fit under the hood, use the same brakets, and the same plug? I might go for that if so, but whats so much better about it than a 140-170 CS-130

 

They have a direct fit version for many cars. You'll have to e-mail/call them to find out for sure if they have one for the 3.1 GP. It's supposed to have a bit more power at idle, I guess. Otherwise, the over-all power isn't going to be as good as the 140/170 amp CS-130. I think the CS-130 would do fine if it had a bit more juice than the stock 105 amps to give out. I can probably count on one hand the number of older, fully equipped GMs of our era that I've heard being as fortunate as Shawn's in the power output department.

[Garrett Powered]

its not a cs-130 the cs-130 has an external fan. cs-130-D has got to be those 140-170 amp models with internal fans. And they have a lot more charge at idle, 65 amps! :shock: , as opposed to -2 amps on the built cs-130.

[Prospeeder]

Ahh now ur all confusing the crap outa me, can i just freakin get the CS-130 (NOT D) With the 170 amps and be fine then, i dont wanna mess with modding and shit with the D unless its completly plug and play, OK?

 

http://www.alternatorparts.com/CS130F.JPG

thats is like mine, i wanna get the same one with the more amps, is that OK?! I dont wanna mod anything i just want some more juice, so theres nothing wrong with what i want, correct? And ill get an Optima red top also

[Garrett Powered]

da 130 ain't gonna blow up your skirt enough. you gonna need a D cup to have fun. . 130 = no charge at idle or when it heats up after charging 2 min.

[Prospeeder]

Lol, nice analagy, So this D, does it use the same braket, or do i need one from a 3100, and does it use the same plug then? i Know my alts ready to takea shit, its rusty fan, howling, and squeaking