ok, fuel pump on a 91 Lumina 2.5

[zoideraserb]

My Grandma's old 300,000+ mile Lumina finally stopped about a week ago and i've checked everything and i'm 99% sure its the Fuel pump. My Uncle put seafoam through it and so i though maybe it had loosened crap in the tank and clogged the filter, so i climb under it and take loose the exit side of it first to see if it was gettin ANY flow. NO flow there, so i take loose the other side just to be sure it was the filter and its getting no fuel from there either , So I've come to the conclusion its the pump. I also checked the relays and and they are good. I can't hear the pump prime or anything so that just adds to the notion that its the pump. It doesn't look like it will be to hard to drop the tank but i though i'd ask to be sure theres nothing that will come back to bite me in the butt lol. Just to recap, its a 1991 Lumina 2.5L.

 

Thanx

'Brandon

 

P.S. I almost forgot, it was throwin a code (check Engine light on) for about a week before it stopped according to my aunt, i checked it and it come out to be Code 32, something about the m.a.p., like Voltage or vacume to low i thin kit was.

[94CutlassSLCoupe]

well if you cant hear the pump priming, that's definaely it.

 

for the code...i would look for vaccum leaks first

 

its got the DUKE!!!

[Crazy K]

Is it for sale? I always wanted to finish drivng back from the moon!

 

Hey you should post this in:

http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36352

 

and give us history and exact mileage. org engine and tranny or not?

[1990lumina]

Dropping the tank shouldn't be to hard however the hangers holding the tank could be rusted quite a bit...soak the nuts/bolts in wd-40 or something to loosen them up some before torqing them...

[zoideraserb]

thanx, yea i even took a screw driver and put the the tank and up to my ear and couldn't hear it. I just hope i don't have to work on it on the incline that its parked on right now, i've had bad expiriences with even slight inclines :shock: . And i noticed that when i took the bonnet off to see if the injector was spraying that the vacume line to the map was unplugged... i didn't think of that till now, i had even forgot about the code till i posted this lol. So is there anything i should watch for when i drop the tank? no "special tricks" or what not? lol

 

And NO its not for sale, if anyone buys it from her it will be ME, i tried to get her to sell it to me and no go, the body is perfect, no rust at all or anything. Never been in a wreck, Suspension is good. Its actually the best looking original paint/no body work Lumina i've ever seen. Its a prime catidate for a 3.8 Series 1 custom turbo project

 

'Brandon

 

p.s. It IS still on the original motor and trans, no internal work on the motor or trans either. As for the exact mileage... I'll have to findout how many miles were on the original Cluster when it went and then add it to whats on the new one that was put in a few years back, but i'd say atleast 325,000.

[Crazy K]

post it when ya got it figured! Don't worry I wasn't serious. hope it comes to be something good for ya!

http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36352

[gp90se]

just a tip if you want 2 move it and/or get rid of some of the fuel in the tank before dropping it, kick the tank a few times. usually it will get the pump goin 1 last time.

[DiscoStudd]

Have you tried spraying starting fluid down the Throttle Body whilst cranking it? Every 'Duke I've owned needed a little "assistance" in getting started in sub-zero weather.

 

Regardless, you should be able to hear the fuel pump without using a "stethescope." Before dropping the tank, swap the FP relay with another and sand down the terminals of the relay so you get any corrosion off of them. Bend the terminals out slightly so they make better contact, and check to see if the pump runs after that

 

FWIW, I changed the pump on my old 96 Lumina and it was a piece of cake. I've heard that the older 1G W's with the monoleaf rear suspension are a bit trickier to get the tank out of than the 1.5G Luminas/Montes with the coil-over suspension. There was someone on here who did a write-up (Turbo231 perhaps?) on changing the tank on a 1G...

[GP1138]

There was someone on here who did a write-up (Turbo231 perhaps?) on changing the tank on a 1G...

 

http://members.aol.com/regal231/fuel.htm

 

In the good ol' W-Body FAQ Section!

[zoideraserb]

Have you tried spraying starting fluid down the Throttle Body whilst cranking it? Every 'Duke I've owned needed a little "assistance" in getting started in sub-zero weather.

 

Regardless, you should be able to hear the fuel pump without using a "stethescope." Before dropping the tank, swap the FP relay with another and sand down the terminals of the relay so you get any corrosion off of them. Bend the terminals out slightly so they make better contact, and check to see if the pump runs after that

 

FWIW, I changed the pump on my old 96 Lumina and it was a piece of cake. I've heard that the older 1G W's with the monoleaf rear suspension are a bit trickier to get the tank out of than the 1.5G Luminas/Montes with the coil-over suspension. There was someone on here who did a write-up (Turbo231 perhaps?) on changing the tank on a 1G...

 

Yep, I even ran it off of starting fluid for about a minute, and i put some gas down it and it fired up then died after it burned out.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Have you tried spraying starting fluid down the Throttle Body whilst cranking it? Every 'Duke I've owned needed a little "assistance" in getting started in sub-zero weather.

 

 

 

what made them hard to start?

[DiscoStudd]

Throttle-Body Injection. Or more specifically, the single TB-mounted injector on the TBI setup. It was one step up the evolutionary ladder from a carbuerator. The only saving grace of the Duke's TBI setup was that if the engine flooded and the ole "gas pedal to the floor while cranking" trick didn't work, you could easily unplug the injector and crank the motor over to clear out the excess fuel.

 

Owning a Duke will make you appreciate today's modern MPFI/SFI setups with their instant cold-weather starting ability ...

[Dirty Rockstar]

Been there, done that, Disco.. Although my 265,xxx mile 87 Dukester started everytime in the winter when it wasn;t eating Ignition coils or crank position sensors, lol

[DiscoStudd]

My 85 GA's Duke had an HEI distributor (which is actually why I got rid of the car - the pickup-coil took a shit and I didn't want to waste my time removing the distributor to replace it.)

 

Had you ever tried starting one of those sumbitches after letting it sit overnight in -20 weather? Not gonna happen! I used to slap one of those magnetic block heaters on my 85 when I got home from work and kept it on there until I left for work the next day. Without it, that car would not start!

 

I fried the starter on my 87 GA when I was up in Duluth for X-Mas back in 93 when the air temp was -34 (luckily no windchill.) I had to crawl under that bastard and change out the starter in that cold-ass shit! I remember after getting the new starter in, it took another half hour to get the damn engine started (that's when I began to rely on starting fluid!)

[gp90se]

I work on a good ol duke every 1ce in a while, -20, 110, thing fires up every time without a complaint. only thing its lacking is balls