Jump to content

yh


ManicMechanic

Recommended Posts

Posted
Not yet. For $17 at Auto Zone though, it's a cheap try...

 

Its a good try. Typically you can test that with the electronic cruise control, but on the vauum controlled units, I'm not sure. I know its cancelled by releasing the vacuum, but I'm not sure how much control the switch has in that.

Posted

on a 92? it should have no electric relase for the cruise control, it has a vacuum valve switch that releases pressure to shut off the cruise control.

On this car, It should have the funky shaped switch which sits all up high on the brake pedal. it you have an mutlimeter, you might be able to test conductivity of the switch, but even easier, there are either four or six wires that go to this switch. TWO of these are on a seperate connector, It comes out of the side ot the switch. The other four are either side by side or on the same connector, I think. They are on the edge of the switch. The TWO on a seperate connector are your brake light sires. Put a paper clip in it's contacts and the brakes will light IF your problem is a bad switch.

BUT just tp be sure, my manuel says: those wires should be orange and white.

 

p.s. multimeter the 3rd brake light bulbs for continuity as often they look good but really are bad.

Posted
on a 92? it should have no electric relase for the cruise control, it has a vacuum valve switch that releases pressure to shut off the cruise control.

 

 

Thats what I said... I am familiar with the '94+ Electronically controlled units... It is the vacuum controlled units I am unfamiliar with, hence I am not able to pinpoint the problem.

 

...but on the vauum controlled units, I'm not sure. I know its cancelled by releasing the vacuum,...
Posted

Just sharing my knowledge :wink: I upgraded my brake switch to a later type on my 91 CS conv, btw. But that was no small task... it required an entire brake conversion.

Hey Never Satisfied, let us know the results so we can try other stuff if necc.

Posted
Just sharing my knowledge :wink: I upgraded my brake switch to a later type on my 91 CS conv, btw. But that was no small task... it required an entire brake conversion.

Hey Never Satisfied, let us know the results so we can try other stuff if necc.

 

I know.. I respect your opinion... you seem quite edumacuated in the w-body field... just didn't want to come off like a complete dumbass with the topic. I know somewhat about what I"m talking about.

 

You remind me of a guy I work with. His name is Kenny.. And your name Crazy K reminds me of him. This dude I work with knows EVERYTHING there is to know in the automotive industry... he's awesome.

Posted

That was bizzare, I couldn't read what you wrote until i tried to quote it.

 

I am an Evil genius! I learn from experience and I've utterly dismembered way too many cars! I take that as a compliment, Sir! 8)

Posted

wait crazyk, why did you upgrade the switch with the brake upgrade? I wanna do the upgrade, but I dont wanna bother with the switch

Posted
wait crazyk, why did you upgrade the switch with the brake upgrade? I wanna do the upgrade, but I dont wanna bother with the switch

The reason why I upgraded the switch is because it came with a donor assembly for a retrofit... Replacing the entire brake pedal assembly from a deceased 91 PMIII to a 1994 lumina brake booster, Master cylinder, abs module, and pedal assembly, which naturally came with the switch....

The most critical part, is that the retainer bracket that holds the plunger type switch has only one hole on the 91 model(same as my vac powered 92 lum), and 2 on the 94 lumina model. Both have a vacuum release switch for the cruise control(only or upper hole), but the second hole (the lower if equipped) is where the switch mounts. also the contact pad that pushes the plunger in is larger on the 94. I don't think this retrofit will be worth you doing. Sorry -Ken

 

however, if you want to sacrifice your cruise control, you might be able to mount it in the release valves spot...

 

It required me to lengthen one pair of wires, and I repinned all six into the new switch's connector.

Posted

hold on, are you saying by connecting a hot wire to one of the contacts, the lights go on? and that the other wire is hot?

Posted

got it figured then :)

someone has a write up on the signal switch, it's not too hard to change if you are mechanically inclined. good luck (can someone give him the link, i gotta go!)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...