digitaloutsider Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Well, in all his years of automotive excellence, 93RegalGS did a mighy fine job of stripping out the torx bolt on the right-side brake caliper. How the hell am I supposed to get this thing out aside from going to the dealer and asking them to remove it?! It's pretty damn stripped, and I NEED to change my rotor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Vise Grips are your best friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Pipe wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Craftsman easy outs... The ones that look like sockets.. Saved me a couple times.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 When I had the same problem on my old Loomie, I took an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and cut the head of the bolt off. When I still couldn't get the "nub" to move with a pipe wrench, I cut the caliper bracket off with the grinder. http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=19283&highlight=grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 i've used a torch to remove stuborn calliper bolts before, nothing like melting them into nothing.... but i supose you do want to put it all back together, in which case my solution dosen't apply. if you can get someone to weld a lugnut to it then just use a 19mm socket to take it off. or use a grinder and grind 2 flat spots on either side of it and use a large wrench to remove it. mabie try pounding a large socket over the bolt completely then just ratcheting it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Those things are on there pretty god damn tight.. you might have to have something welded to it that you can get a wrench on. They're not exactly soft metal either, I dunno how easily an easy-out would work it's way in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Torx bolts suck alot some times, don't they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted December 7, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Yes. Who the fuck thought to use them on caliper bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo231 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Well, in all his years of automotive excellence, 93RegalGS did a mighy fine job of stripping out the torx bolt on the right-side brake caliper. How the hell am I supposed to get this thing out aside from going to the dealer and asking them to remove it?! It's pretty damn stripped, and I NEED to change my rotor! I always thought that 93RegalGS was a sketchy character. He probably also replaced you muffler bearings (well, the one muffler), with inferior Chinese ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Best change your blinker fluid too.. he probably cheaped out and tried to get away with washer fluid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyle Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Make sure you put the left fluid in for the left one too, and the right for the right. We actually had one of our female friends go into the gas station and ask for blinker fluid, the look on the guys face was priceless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Did you get them off yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supreme_style21 Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 If its anything like your opening-the-door job, just slice off the knuckle and all that shit and you'll have the caliper off in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 angle grind the tork bolt away at the collar, so you can pull the metal sleeve off and the caliper and bracket. then snap vice grips on it and start turning. You might have to grind a flat spot into the nub, or heat it with a torch to break it free. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 This is what happens when you go crazy with the angle grinder on a caliper bracket (due to a stripped out TORX® head on the mounting bolt) ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Haha, I told you how to get the rotor out when you were trying to get the alternator out..... Just get a bar and pry the caliper bracket forward, worked for me 3 times. BTW It stripped because I had a hex bit not a torx bit (have one now though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalgorn Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 BTW It stripped because I had a hex bit not a torx bit (have one now though). Well that was a pretty dumb idea, wasn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 When I had my '88 I just cut the head off of that bolt and removed the rest of it with a pipe wrench like said above. If i see them even the slightest bit stripped, they get replaced...NOT worth messing with. I'm still interested to see if I can find a nice reduced head hex bolt that will go in there instead...If anyone has measurements, I'd love to have them (I'm pretty sure they are M12X1.75 thread). Easily the worst thing to remove on the whole car....I couldn't even get them out of my own car (when it had a whopping 28k miles on it) without a 1/2" drive, 24" long breaker bar. I usually have to use a big pipe on the end too. I think they are supposed to be torqued to like 137 or 142 lb-ft though :shock: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 The caliper bracket bolts on my Regal were suprisingly easy to remove. The previous owner coated the threads with anti-sieze, so I didn't need to put much pressure on the cheater bar to bust them loose. Come to think of it, every major suspension and brake bolt on the car had a good coating of anti-sieze on it (and as an added bonus, the previous owner installed MOOG outer tie-rod ends! :shock: ) I didn't have any trouble at all changing the struts or the brakes on all 4 corners. So let that be a lesson to you kiddies: Always always always coat the threads with anti-sieze! Especially the lug studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 Well that was a pretty dumb idea, wasn't it? Well we were able to break the top bolt out with the hex bit just fine. Sooooo it really wasn't a dumb idea since it works half the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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