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Removing a stripped Torx bolt.


digitaloutsider

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Well, in all his years of automotive excellence, 93RegalGS did a mighy fine job of stripping out the torx bolt on the right-side brake caliper. :lol: How the hell am I supposed to get this thing out aside from going to the dealer and asking them to remove it?! It's pretty damn stripped, and I NEED to change my rotor!

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i've used a torch to remove stuborn calliper bolts before, nothing like melting them into nothing.... but i supose you do want to put it all back together, in which case my solution dosen't apply.

 

if you can get someone to weld a lugnut to it then just use a 19mm socket to take it off. or use a grinder and grind 2 flat spots on either side of it and use a large wrench to remove it. mabie try pounding a large socket over the bolt completely then just ratcheting it off.

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Those things are on there pretty god damn tight.. you might have to have something welded to it that you can get a wrench on. They're not exactly soft metal either, I dunno how easily an easy-out would work it's way in.

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Well, in all his years of automotive excellence, 93RegalGS did a mighy fine job of stripping out the torx bolt on the right-side brake caliper. :lol: How the hell am I supposed to get this thing out aside from going to the dealer and asking them to remove it?! It's pretty damn stripped, and I NEED to change my rotor!

 

I always thought that 93RegalGS was a sketchy character. He probably also replaced you muffler bearings (well, the one muffler), with inferior Chinese ones.

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Make sure you put the left fluid in for the left one too, and the right for the right.

 

 

We actually had one of our female friends go into the gas station and ask for blinker fluid, the look on the guys face was priceless.

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angle grind the tork bolt away at the collar, so you can pull the metal sleeve off and the caliper and bracket. then snap vice grips on it and start turning. You might have to grind a flat spot into the nub, or heat it with a torch to break it free. good luck

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loomiebrakes.jpg

 

This is what happens when you go crazy with the angle grinder on a caliper bracket (due to a stripped out TORX® head on the mounting bolt) :lol: ...

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Haha, I told you how to get the rotor out when you were trying to get the alternator out.....

Just get a bar and pry the caliper bracket forward, worked for me 3 times.

 

BTW It stripped because I had a hex bit not a torx bit (have one now though).

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When I had my '88 I just cut the head off of that bolt and removed the rest of it with a pipe wrench like said above. If i see them even the slightest bit stripped, they get replaced...NOT worth messing with. I'm still interested to see if I can find a nice reduced head hex bolt that will go in there instead...If anyone has measurements, I'd love to have them (I'm pretty sure they are M12X1.75 thread).

 

Easily the worst thing to remove on the whole car....I couldn't even get them out of my own car (when it had a whopping 28k miles on it) without a 1/2" drive, 24" long breaker bar. I usually have to use a big pipe on the end too. I think they are supposed to be torqued to like 137 or 142 lb-ft though :shock:

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The caliper bracket bolts on my Regal were suprisingly easy to remove. The previous owner coated the threads with anti-sieze, so I didn't need to put much pressure on the cheater bar to bust them loose. Come to think of it, every major suspension and brake bolt on the car had a good coating of anti-sieze on it (and as an added bonus, the previous owner installed MOOG outer tie-rod ends! :shock: ) I didn't have any trouble at all changing the struts or the brakes on all 4 corners.

 

So let that be a lesson to you kiddies: Always always always coat the threads with anti-sieze! Especially the lug studs.

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Well that was a pretty dumb idea, wasn't it? :lol:

Well we were able to break the top bolt out with the hex bit just fine. Sooooo it really wasn't a dumb idea since it works half the time. :)

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