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Upper and lower Intake removal on a 2.8


5speedz34

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Alright so I'm pulling the Intake assembly on the Cutlass. I pulled the plenum, and I'll be pulling the LIM in the next few days.

 

Is there anything I need to look for or any tips anyone can give me. Should I pickup a torque wrench for this job.

 

I plan on replacing

 

I got the Intake Gasket set (upper and lowers)

Possibly coolant pipe from across the motor

Valve Cover gaskets

Clean the Intake out good

PCV valve

Fuel injector O-rings

 

Anything else you guys can think of? Like I said, any tips or tricks?

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Oil pump drive o-ring, if it hasn't been done (don't use the one with the intake kit, use the silicon one from GM. it's a brownish color).

coolant bypass pipe's gasket (on top of the water pump)

 

shouldn't need a torque wrench, but any excuse to buy tools is a good one. Should have it pretty much covered besides that. Maybe EGR gasket just for the hell of it.

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have fun with the coolant line that connects to the LIM...the one right under where the TB should be...that quick connect fitting is FUN :lol:

 

other than that...i'd do the oil pump drive seal too...it's damn easy once you're down there

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coolant bypass pipe's gasket (on top of the water pump)

Yeah those tend to go on cars this old. When I polished my valve covers, I had to remove the pipe from the pump and there was virtually nothing left of that gasket.

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i never used a torque wrench on the 3.1 LIM and it went 75k more miles before i sold it. i have a calibrated hand :lol:

 

get brake cleaner to clean the gasket surfaces and apply a nice 1/4" bead of RTV(o2 sensor safe stuff) to the end seals of the LIM, let it skin over about 5 minutes before installing the manifold. run the bead about 3/4" up each head as well. i've been using that method on everything from 3.1's to 500+" big blocks for years with not one leak.

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i would say an torque wrench is a must. preferably an in/lb wrench and a ft/lb wrench.

 

:werd:

 

Do you want to risk cracking your LIM/UIM, heard of a few people doing this. There is a tighning pattern as well for the LIM,

 

For lim, need to torque to some spec for all, then torque to some higher value. I'll get the specs for you with some pics of the pattern

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I have the service manual so for tighting sequences and the proper spec that shouldn't be a problem.

 

I already did the O-ring so that shouldn't be a problem. I also did the throttle body bypass since those lines where a bitch to get off. For the coolant bypass pipe I think I'm going to replace it. Since it probably is a dealer only item, how much you guys think it runs? And is the Coolant bypass pipe gasket also dealer only?

 

I bought a Torque wrench today, I figured a 3/8 would be fine since the 1/2 is really big. They had another 3/8 but it was like 2.5"-100in. I figured this one would be better.

 

This is the one I bought: It was on sale. :wink:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00944594000&bidsite=CRAFT

 

What do you guys think?

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For the coolant bypass pipe I think I'm going to replace it. Since it probably is a dealer only item, how much you guys think it runs? And is the Coolant bypass pipe gasket also dealer only?

 

I don't know if the pipe would still be available, if not I'd have somebody sandblast all the old paint/rust off for you and just repaint it good. If it's too far gone, there are plenty in j/ys.

 

Gasket's definetly not dealer only. Picked mine up at Napa, should be called "waterpump bypass gasket."

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I guy at work has one of these bad boys. I absolutely love it, and plan on getting one someday when he stops letting me borrow his:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=68395&group_ID=17226&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

measures in ft lbs, inch lbs, newton meters

displays what you are actually torqing the bolt to on the digital display.

Vibrates and beeps when the desired torque is reached.

$300 you gotta pay to play! :lol:

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I want to clean the intake out and everything.

 

I'm thinking getting some Berryman's Chem Dip, and getting a turkey sized pan and letting the intake soak for a while.

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I want to clean the intake out and everything.

 

I'm thinking getting some Berryman's Chem Dip, and getting a turkey sized pan and letting the intake soak for a while.

 

Might as well go for a decent sized rubbermaid container. Can fit more stuff and limit spillage. the dip should be fine on the plastic, long as it's not sitting in there for months.

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Guest TurboSedan

i used brushes and Brakleen on my LIM, and got it REALLY clean that way. you could also bring it to a shop to get bead blasted....i did that with my timing cover.

 

in order to submerse the LIM in Berryman's ChemDip you'll need to buy several cans. that gets expensive.

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I want to clean the intake out and everything.

 

I'm thinking getting some Berryman's Chem Dip, and getting a turkey sized pan and letting the intake soak for a while.

 

Might as well go for a decent sized rubbermaid container. Can fit more stuff and limit spillage. the dip should be fine on the plastic, long as it's not sitting in there for months.

 

I thought about that but I figured it would eat away at it.

 

i used brushes and Brakleen on my LIM, and got it REALLY clean that way. you could also bring it to a shop to get bead blasted....i did that with my timing cover.

 

in order to submerse the LIM in Berryman's ChemDip you'll need to buy several cans. that gets expensive.

 

How much did bead blasting run you?

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Guest TurboSedan

IIRC $15 but that included a few other little things besides the timing cover. LIM should be around $15-$20 i would imagine....but i have never priced bead blasting service anywhere but the one place i went to (they also rebuilt my TGP heads).

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IIRC $15 but that included a few other little things besides the timing cover. LIM should be around $15-$20 i would imagine....but i have never priced bead blasting service anywhere but the one place i went to (they also rebuilt my TGP heads).

 

Damn, well I'll check it out.

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Guest TurboSedan

it really didn't take too much work to get my LIM cleaned with brushes and Brakleen. i just went to ACE hardware and picked out some chepo brushes, several cans of Brakleen and went to town on it. the timing cover however has areas that are impossible to thoroughly brush due to the way it was casted. i tried to get the timing cover cleaned myself and finally gave up after i realized bead blasting was the only way to get it as clean as i wanted it.

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When I cleaned the intake on my girlfriends Cavy I just let carb cleaner set in the intake for a few hours. After that I scrubbed what was left with the brush in a solvent tank.

You could just buy a few cans of carb cleaner, and see where it gets you.

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A head shop would clean it out for cheap, like 20 bucks, leave it looking like new, all the nooks and crannies.

 

I think its some type of powered they use, can remeber the name, i think its also used to check for cracks.

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