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coolant/heating problem


GPdriver1986

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hey guys my friend has a 95 Regal, I believe its a 3.1. Anyways when he drives his car the temp gage goes up normally and there is heat inside. But there is a point where it goes into the red zone and during that time there is no heat in the car. if you touch the engine when its at the red zone its not hot as it should be. He replaced the thermostat (also happend before it)

 

Any advice?

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I would check things in this order, each is a separate procedure:

 

1. Check to make sure coolant is full

 

2. Bleed the air out of the system

 

3. Make sure the gauge is reading correctly

 

4. replace thermostat again, and start back at 1.

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Do the fans turn on or off? and if so what point on the guage?

I've seen worn out temperature sensors cause the same perplexing effect. (both my 95 CS and my parents 95 ciera) I've only seen this happen on 95s...coincidence?

Try replacing the gauge sensor first to ensure that you see what the engine is really doing. You may find the engine actually is running too cold... which would mean the other sensor needs to be replaced too. The sensors are thermostatic resistors and with age, some start giving incorrect values when hot.

 

They thread into coolant passages, I prefer liquid teflon to seal the threads.

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there are two bleeder screws on the system...one on the pipe above the thermostat where the upper radator hose meets, and there is another right above the water pump...Just crack them open one at a time and wait until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Move to the next one, take the car out for a drive and get it fully warm and repeat. It may take a few cycles, but the air should come out and the car will run as normal.

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When the gauge is up in the red zone and there's no heat, pull the car over and feel the upper radiator hose. If you can squeeze it, or it's cool to the touch, then the thermostat is stuck closed and needs replacing.

 

When I bleed a radiator, I fill it up to the top, then alternate between squeezing the upper and lower radiator hoses to "burp" the air out (refill the rad after each squeeze.) When you reach the point where the squeezing doesn't burp any more air out, start the car with the cap off and monitor the level in the rad, filling as necessary. Shut the car off after a couple of minutes and squeeze the hoses one more time, filling as necessary. Put the cap back on the rad and fill the recovery tank to the "HOT" mark to compensate for any small pockets of air in the system. This should give you enough in the system so it will properly draw from the recovery tank :wink: ...

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there are two bleeder screws on the system...one on the pipe above the thermostat where the upper radator hose meets, and there is another right above the water pump...Just crack them open one at a time and wait until a steady stream of coolant comes out. Move to the next one, take the car out for a drive and get it fully warm and repeat. It may take a few cycles, but the air should come out and the car will run as normal.

 

the car has to be running right ?? :oops:

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Guest TurboSedan

what i do is exactly what DiscoStudd does. leaving the radiator cap off while the engine warms up (until coolant starts flowing out) will probably get most of the air out of the system.

 

i also open the bleeder valves after i shut the engine off when it is fully warmed up. then i run the engine for a few minutes, shut it off and open the bleeder valves again. i'm not sure if this is necessary or not, but that is what i do.

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