Guest TurboSedan Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 lately my car seems to stumble under load, and last night it was really hard to start once. this morning it won't start at all and i checked fuel rail pressure and NO pressure. then i checked the fuse and it was OK. does this sound like a bad fuel pump? i have never replacecd one and was wondering what needs to be done to replace it. i've heard you need to drop the tank which sucks because i have a full tank :? i'll replace the filter while i'm at it... thanks, joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 Sounds like the pump to me. BTW, have you found a TGP waterneck yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 yep i'm getting the TGP waterneck and turbo oil lines from manualturbo this week sometime depending on price i think i'm going to go with either the GM # EP375 pump, or the Walbro 190ltr/hr pump from http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/ it's only $83.... joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 9, 2003 Report Share Posted March 9, 2003 OK, cause I found the water neck on GMPartsdirect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 12, 2003 Report Share Posted March 12, 2003 changing a fuel pump is a BITCH!~!~ just dropping the tank is hard enough and then i discover that i need a new sending unit also - which GM wants like $350 something for. Advance wants about $213 so i'm going to check the salvage yards....unless someone here has one for sale? i hate my car right now grrrr..... btw, i couldn't get a new Walbro fuel pump locally so i just bought a Masters fuel pump from Advance for the TGP. interestingly, they listed 2 different fuel pumps for the '90 TGP, so i asked what part # they listed for a '90 350 TPI Vette - and one of the part #'s matched the TGP fuel pump part # so i bought that pump. i figure this should be good enough for the turbo project until i start going with bigger injectors, T3 etc. then i'll buy a Walbro 255. well hopefully i can get the car running by the end of this weekend..... joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted March 12, 2003 Report Share Posted March 12, 2003 I feel your pain. i am going to be doing a pump in my lumina and my monte here SOON! i am doing the Walbro 255HP... Also i have something from B&M that increases the voltage to a few things, which according to that site posted above the pump will produce higher pressures if you have more voltage... woth a shot. http://store.summitracing.com/productdetail.asp?p=2538 "Power for your fuel pumps These new B&M Power Plus Voltage Control Units are designed for all fuel injected cars. Made for all high performance racing applications, these units provide up to 50 percent more energy for your fuel pumps. These are fully encapsulated to survive the toughest racing environments. Ideal for racing where the alternator belt will be removed as these units provide no degradation in fuel pump performance." RedZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted March 12, 2003 Report Share Posted March 12, 2003 255LPH HP for $97US shipped http://www.importevolution.com/store/fuel.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 14, 2003 Report Share Posted March 14, 2003 I feel your pain. i am going to be doing a pump in my lumina and my monte here SOON! RedZ crap i can't afford a fuel sender unit so i have to put the bad one back in with the new pump. at least the car will run, but i obviously won't have a gas gauge for awhile....so it looks like i'll be doing this job over again very soon.....(i'll probably just put the Walbro in at that time too) but anyway... i would definately recommend doing the job with an empty tank (if possible). mine went out unexpectadly so i didn't have a choice :? there is an anti-siphon valve on the tank so you can't siphon any gas out until the tank is out of the car. i tried to raise the tank today (still full) and ended up spilling a bunch of gas out of the filler hole so tomarrow i'm going to spill the rest of the gas out into a 5-gallon gas container before i try it again. at least it was much easier to lower the full tank than it will be to raise an empty one replacing the pump itself in the hanger/pickup assemble is a breeze thankfully. i would try to blast the lock ring (top cap) area with compressed air and brakleen before removing it to prevent any crap falling into the tank. oh yeah, one thing i noticed was that one of the strap bolts (that hold the tank up) was right above the exhuast pipe. i could just barely get to the bolt with a shallow 15mm socket and a U-joint. if you have a bigger exhaust than you might have to lower the exhuast system to get to that bolt..... joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted March 14, 2003 Report Share Posted March 14, 2003 malibuolds, There isn't much to a sending unit. It's really just a resistor. Try taking it apart and clean the resistor and the arm that rubs against it. That fixed mine. Mine was just corroded. Check the resister with an ohmmeter to make sure the wire isn't broken before and after you clean it. You may have to rebend the arm to make sure it rubs against the resister. You can check to see how it works with an ohmmeter. You will get a varying reading as you move the float up and down. You can even hook it up and see how it corresponds to your gas gauge. Hope this saves you some $ and the aggravation of having to pull the tank again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted March 14, 2003 Report Share Posted March 14, 2003 actually, my sender is broken in two places; the plastic that holds the arm in place on the 'swinger' is broken so it won't read correcty, and then when i was pulling the tank out i accidentally pulled too hard on the wiring harness and the ground wire for the sender was pulled out of the plug - i can't even splice onto anything...crappy huh? joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Cutlass Posted March 22, 2003 Report Share Posted March 22, 2003 Man my fuel pump went and i changed it myself in about 4 hours its not that hard just be gentel on the sending unit its pretty easy man, I just used some car ramps and backed up onto them the unhooked the Hoses that run to the gas take, I think thers about 4 hoses all together then undo the to metal straps that are holding it up. And change it, fuel pump is only around $50.00 at Advance Auto Parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZMonte Posted March 24, 2003 Report Share Posted March 24, 2003 Man my fuel pump went and i changed it myself in about 4 hours its not that hard just be gentel on the sending unit its pretty easy man, I just used some car ramps and backed up onto them the unhooked the Hoses that run to the gas take, I think thers about 4 hoses all together then undo the to metal straps that are holding it up. And change it, fuel pump is only around $50.00 at Advance Auto Parts. He is going turbo sooner or later so he will want a H.O. fuel pump.. walbro 255LPH HP is a direct dropin for our cars. RedZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted March 24, 2003 Report Share Posted March 24, 2003 Hey RedZ... I sent an Email to the Walbro supplier asking if the HP 255 pump was a direct replacement with no modifications needed. They have not answered yet, but do you know for sure that this is a direct replacement pump? edit: From Auto Performance I have not worked on a Turbo GP, so I can't be for sure, but the Walbro catalog lists the OE replacement pump for that car as a pump that is compatible with the FPG00x kits. The FPG00x kits contain: pump pickup filter hose w/ clamps wiring adapter rubber osolator for bottom of pump new o-ring tank seal instructions in several languages From the resources I have, FPG00x kits will be your best bet. -- Ron Gregory Auto Performance Engineering htp://APEusa.com 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) 255LPH HP for $97US shipped http://www.importevolution.com/store/fuel.php "was wondering why the huge upgrade until the future of that car was explained. did it ever get turboed? . i would try to blast the lock ring (top cap) area with compressed air and brakleen before removing it to prevent any crap falling into the tank." Brake cleaner is safe around fuel? and I was advised at AZ not to use compressed air that has huff-able fumes in it, because of the fuel fumes. Edited February 26, 2014 by Go4DaMo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 This isn't helpful at all, but I read the title as "Is it Mr. Fuel pump" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 This isn't helpful at all, but I read the title as "Is it Mr. Fuel pump" That's helpful, I'll name my next band "Mr. Fuel Pump" now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 ahh shoot...no answer on the compressed air or brake cleaner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Sam, i'd use compressed air before i use brake cleaner for something like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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