ratcheting strap/tie down/come-a-long: changing rear plugs

[briandors]

I've read a few threads where people talk about removing the front engine mount and using the engine lift to pull the engine forward using a strap of some type.

 

Yes, I am aware I could park the car nose-down and not need a special tool, or remove the alternator and not even rock the engine forward. Sorry but not interested in these methods.

 

For those of you that use a strap / tie-down /come-a-long, can you please explain exactly which one you like? Links are appreciated. I want to make sure I get a good one.

 

Also, where to attach the other end of the strap? Can I use the support/brace that runs above the radiator along the front?

 

Thanks!

Brian

[TGPilot]

I do not have pictures of it in use...but I use a motorcycle tie-down strap. What I do is have it in park or in gear depending on which car I am working on...and rock the car back and forth with the dogbones removed. This causes the motor to rock and then I just take up the slack when the motor comes forward.

 

With a ratchet tie-down you do not need to rock the car just pull the motor forward with the ratchet.

 

I usually put on hook on the alternator bracket eyelit and then put the other hook of the tie-down on the hood latch hard hook piece whatever it is called...but anything on the the upper brace is more than strong enough to hold the motor forward. 8)

[Psych0matt]

I thought I heard somewhere that it works much easier in nuetral, and less stress on the tranny? maybe I'm nuts, I dunno

[TGPilot]

How do you rock an engine in neutral? :?

[Regal_GS_1989]

i put a block of wood on my floor jack, and than put it at the rear of tranny pan and jack it up. I have aloways had enough room to change the plugs that way.

[Guest TurboSedan]

wow, takes me all of two minutes to remove the alternator bracket from the rear cylinder head (leave the alternator on the bracket and leave it plugged in...just lay it on top of the PS pump). IMO it's easier and it will give you alot more room than undoing the dogones and rotating the engine forward.

[patgizz]

i always popped the dogbones off and tossed a strap on one of their brackets and ratcheted it forward by hooking onto the radiator support. takes all of 30 seconds with an air ratchet and you're ready to change the plugs.

[GP1138]

(leave the alternator on the bracket and leave it plugged in...just lay it on top of the PS pump)

 

Disconnect the battery if you do that, either that or make sure the positive terminal is covered by that little rubber boot, or else you'll have a spark show if you're not careful.

[TGPilot]

However it works for most...I have tried your method one time Josh and liked it. Worked pretty well. I like to rotate the motor so I can get in the back side from under the car and see what is going on and clean the plug holes out. A plus for us 5-speed guys to have that 200lbs auto tranny out of the way! 8)

[briandors]

Considering the alternator is kind of off to the passenger side and not dead inline with the cylinders I don't see how removing the alt gives you MORE room to work than removing the dogbones and tilting the engine fwd.

:|

 

HOWEVER since I have never done this job before, and always like to learn the best way to do things... I will take a long hard look at both suggestions. Maybe I should have said I have a 95 3100 CS from the start, though I'm not sure the engine differences warrant a different approach.

 

Thanks everybody.

brian

[Dirty Rockstar]

I just did them in my Oldsmobubble.. I took off the dog bones (<2 mins total) and had my friend Peter kiss the back with his truck to push it forward a little.. Got the rears out, in and wired in about 15 minutes.. No harm done, plugs are done, and I got my gas mileage back..

[LukeZ34]

I always removed the alt to change the rear plugs, but I always left the bracket on the motor. However, the last 2 times I've had to get to the rear plugs, I removed the bracket w/ the alt still attached (like Josh said) and it makes it MUCH easier to remove the plugs. 4 Bolts (1 10mm, 3 15mm) and it lifts right off.

I've got a picture of the engine w/ the alt + bracket removed, and how much room it gives you. I'll have to find it when I get home and post it.

[GnatGoSplat]

Lisle makes a tool that's even easier to use than removing the alt bracket... makes it easy to tilt, but is a little annoying to untilt because it binds up and needs to be hammered.

Basically, you remove a dogbone and install this tool. Then undo one end of the other dogbone and tighten the tool to tilt. To untilt the engine, loosen the tool, then whack the crap out of it with a hammer till the engine is back into position.

 

I think there are better tools, but this one worked pretty good. It would work a lot better if it didn't bind.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I've explained my method of tilting the engine a couple of times, but nobody seems to care. Oh well, I'll tell anyways...

 

-Undo dogbones

-Apply e-brake (if it works 100%) or have someone sit in the car and HOLD the brakes

-WITH THE BRAKES LOCKED- put car in reverse, and the engine will tilt forward. Apply throttle as nessesary and slip the bolt through the dog bone mount on the engine.

-put car in N or Park and shut off engine, now you're ready to work!

[Prospeeder]

I've explained my method of tilting the engine a couple of times, but nobody seems to care. Oh well, I'll tell anyways...

 

-Undo dogbones

-Apply e-brake (if it works 100%) or have someone sit in the car and HOLD the brakes

-WITH THE BRAKES LOCKED- put car in reverse, and the engine will tilt forward. Apply throttle as nessesary and slip the bolt through the dog bone mount on the engine.

-put car in N or Park and shut off engine, now you're ready to work!

 

that doesnt sound good for the tranny, but thats just me

[digitaloutsider]

How is it bad for it, exactly?

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

How is it bad for it, exactly?

 

It's the same as brake torquing... except you aren't putting near as much force on the tranny. If it's hard on anything, it would be the brakes (but not really..)

[digitaloutsider]

I was referring to Erik's post. I know it isn't bad. I'm the king of destroying automatic transmissions. I know what hurts them and what doesn't

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I was referring to Erik's post. I know it isn't bad. I'm the king of destroying automatic transmissions. I know what hurts them and what doesn't

 

I know I was just answering your question for him..

[Prospeeder]

hmm arlighty, wouldnt it work the same in drive? or are u saynig that as a procaution so if thebrakes fail it doens come flying at you

[5speedz34]

I did the plugs on the POS Cutlass and all I have to say is thank god for engine mounts that are gone.

[Stekman]

I use one of these.

 

http://www.autobarn.net/lienti.html

[TGPilot]

hmm arlighty, wouldnt it work the same in drive? or are u saynig that as a procaution so if thebrakes fail it doens come flying at you

 

Think about it....if the motor is mounted transverse it will torque from front to rear right? If you have it in drive the motor will rock towards the rear of the car...reverse will rock the motor to the front of the car thus giving more room to reach the rear plugs which started this discussion.

 

Now I would not recommend doing anything other than the tool or strap technique with a TGP/TSTE. You just might rock the motor too much and put the turbo inlet housing into the A/C bracket and cause damage! 8)

[Euro]

so putting it in reverse will rock it THAT much to get your hand(s) back there?

 

i have to do this eventually..when it gets nice enough to where my hands dont freeze off

 

i'm still leery of the whole idea of rocking the motor forward :?

[GP1138]

so putting it in reverse will rock it THAT much to get your hand(s) back there?

 

i have to do this eventually..when it gets nice enough to where my hands dont freeze off

 

i'm still leery of the whole idea of rocking the motor forward :?

 

It doesn't hurt anything.. promise.