Auto Paint

[Supreme Cutlass]

I've been concidering getting new paint on the cutlass, probably just using the factory colors so I avoid problems in the door jamb area, etc. Any problems with earl scheib's pro 4 finish? How long should I expect the finish to hold up properly? Is it worth it?

[J]

I've been concidering getting new paint on the cutlass, probably just using the factory colors so I avoid problems in the door jamb area, etc. Any problems with earl scheib's pro 4 finish? How long should I expect the finish to hold up properly? Is it worth it?

:shock: :shock: :shock: make sure you do a shit load of prep work yourself, if your looking to do some work yourself some of the guys here have done it. Do it once and do it right

[Supreme Cutlass]

I've been concidering getting new paint on the cutlass, probably just using the factory colors so I avoid problems in the door jamb area, etc. Any problems with earl scheib's pro 4 finish? How long should I expect the finish to hold up properly? Is it worth it?

:shock: :shock: :shock: make sure you do a shit load of prep work yourself, if your looking to do some work yourself some of the guys here have done it. Do it once and do it right

 

I'm worried that if I prep it, that they'll blame me if it doesn't last long and I won't be able to redeem the warranty.

[1990lumina]

Is this place like Maaco??? If it is you had better sell that car within a yar before the paint peels off lol....Maaco is known for cheap fast paint jobs that don't last (even though they say they last lol)

 

Good luck in your decision.

[3pt1lumina]

I've only ever used DuPont paints on my vehicles. My Chevelle was painted with factory correct GM DuPont paint and it looks great as well as the quality of the paint. However, application is a big difference. Because it was my show car, I had a professional do all of the work except for disassembly and reassembly. Came out A+ so I'm happy with that.

 

When it comes time to paint the Lumina, I'll use DuPont paint for that. I'll also have all the prep work done, so if something goes wrong, I can take it back and be like "fix it, bitches." I've never heard of Earl Sheibs pro finish? It may be good. Not sure though.

[Supreme Cutlass]

Here's a brief description;

Earl Scheib's Pro 4 Package

The best we have to offer. At $718.95 it includes:

 

* Chemically clean & dewax

* Dual-action sanding for adhesion

* Careful masking & taping

* Air-blown dust removal

* Tack cloth cleaning

* Paint coats #1 and #2

* Masking & tape removal

* Infrared Quartz Finish drying

* Final cleaning

* Many additional colors

* Paint coat #3 (base coat) for a uniform finish

* Bumper & Tire Conditioner

* Additional sanding & preparation for adhesion

* Integrated clear coat

* "Starfire Colors"

* Extra final cleaning

* Our BEST Warranty . .

* Includes new colors

* True seperate Euro-Clean top coat

* Ultraviolet sunscreen gloss hardener protector

* Pro-Tech protection plan

[ToroToro]

Every car I've seen painted by Earl Shieb looks like complete shit, if not right away, then a year or two afterwards...

 

 

Thats an ES job on my buddies old Firebird. I know its a nightshot, but you can tell how dull and rubbed out the paint looked after just over a year, and thats with using good waxes on there...

 

They may of gotten better, but I'd say unless your paint job is REALLY messed up, dont do it.

 

And it looks like their basic plan doesn't even include a clear coat. Single stage paint jobs went out with the 70s guys...

[Supreme Cutlass]

Do you know if he got a pro one or two service? those don't have a clearcoat, 3 and 4 do.

[J]

integrqated clear coat means a single stage paint, look like hell. I'd just do it right for like $2500, or buy the paint, do the prep and rent a booth

[3pt1lumina]

wow the side of that Firebird looks like a refridgerator door!

 

If you're going to spend the money, IMO don't go with a single step paint. Do a base/clear and have it done right. You will be happier in the long run. Especially if you are talking $700. Spend another $700-1,000 and make it really really nice.

 

If that's the type of work that they produce on that Firebird, I wouldn't send my Schwinn there.

[Jcrow]

Single stage paint is bad - it will for sure fade fast

[Supreme Cutlass]

If I shouldn't do earl scheib where should I go?

[ToroToro]

A REAL body shop, or DIY.

[Supreme Cutlass]

A REAL body shop, or DIY.

I'd like to use an actual REPUTABLE company, feel free to post/ IM or PM me if there's a good place in Dallas. Around here all the body shops withing a half hour or so look FAR from reputable. I'd probably have to go into Dallas for a good quality shop. I really don't like the idea of paying for doing it myself and screwing it up. :oops:

[Supreme Cutlass]

Looks like there's a good chance I might be doing the paint myself. My neighbor has some decent paint guns, and my OTHER neighbor said he could hook me up with his friend's paint booth and equipment. SO, what I figure I'll do, is take the body panels that need the work off of the car (bumpers, hood, fender, probably the trunk lid, two pieces of side trim [are any of these really hard to take off and put back on? I've never done it before]) and paint that way so I don't screw up the rest of the perfectly good paint on the car.

 

Any reccomendations on paint?

[ToroToro]

Glad to hear. It'll turn out much better than Maaco or ES.

 

The side pieces are fairly simple to get off. The front fender piece is screwed on from behind the plastic wheel well on the coupes, probobly similar on sedans. For the door moldings, there should be a few screws on the inside edge of each door, then they just unsnap. Ever consider getting the sportier body kit on that car? I mean since you are repainting it anyway...

 

Personally, I'd go with PPG paint all the way. Everything I've shot, I used PPG and it came out really nice.

[Supreme Cutlass]

Thanks, ToroToro, anyone else??

[mfewtrail]

Single stage paint is bad - it will for sure fade fast

 

For what it's worth, my old truck was painted with single stage paint and it lasted a good 10years before it faded(it wasn't always properly cared for either....sat outside in the sun here). Single stage is a decent alternative in some situations.

[J]

single stage is usually good for a quick paint job and sell the car. If your gonna keep it for a while, do it right IMHO

[Brian P]

single stage *urethane* is fine for basic color, non-metallic finishes. I've used PPG single stage on 1 car and I did PPG's omni line on a few others (basic urethane enamel) bc/cc I never had a problem with PPG. In fact the ass end of my car I painted with the latter and I'm very satisfied. Just practice painting on some other parts before you do your car, like a bare steel door or something...you don't want to lay too thick nor too thin layers of paint.

 

Stay away from lacquer or acrylic paints.

[Intlcutlass]

DIY!!!!

 

Base coat / Clear Coat !!!

 

You will spend more than you hoped, but less than having it done by a pro

 

 

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

[Pabz]

DIY!!!!

 

Base coat / Clear Coat !!!

 

You will spend more than you hoped, but less than having it done by a pro

 

 

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

 

 

I wouldn't take it apart though, leave all pieces on and get to work!

 

Be prepared for a hellava time

 

[Supreme Cutlass]

DIY!!!!

 

Base coat / Clear Coat !!!

 

You will spend more than you hoped, but less than having it done by a pro

 

 

http://www.autobody101.com/forums/

 

 

I wouldn't take it apart though, leave all pieces on and get to work!

 

Be prepared for a hellava time

 

 

Why not? only certain body parts need paint.

[Pabz]

Which parts are those? Oh, and i dont think your years had the GM paint problem so you dont need to sand that much.

 

I just find that sanding, body work, priming and painting are best done with it on the car, unless you can mount the parts so the paint gun will be parallel.

 

I wanted to take the parts off too. just didnt seem practical and i risked messing them up when i assembled.

[Supreme Cutlass]

.... SO, what I figure I'll do, is take the body panels that need the work off of the car (bumpers, hood, fender, probably the trunk lid, two pieces of side trim [are any of these really hard to take off and put back on? I've never done it before]) and paint that way so I don't screw up the rest of the perfectly good paint on the car.