GutlessSupreme Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 BADLY. Cutlass went back on the road today and it's awful... *THUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNKTHUNK*.. can't be good to be driving it like that. Cheapeast? tips? anything? Quote
terryk2003 Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 hmm...i need a rear drivers side hub...sounds wicked loud...like its about to fall the fuck off...i think the front one was like $100 @ advance auto and its like $150 the the rear that i need... ...must be the time of the year for wheel bearings... Quote
Crazy K Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 autozone's are about $95, but only have a 1 year warranty. I've gotten used ones before for pretty cheap... say $25. It would most likely be an OEM, of course(better) but might be well used. The Oem ones last a long time, but you might get what you pay for. I would get one off a lower mileage late model such as a 95 to 2000 lumina, since they all have the same hubs. (check with the j/y to be sure) and make sure you try to wobble the wheel to test the bearing first! -ken Quote
Kaline Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 I recently bought one for my '90 Cutlass from Murray's Auto Parts (local Detroit chain) for $85. It was a National/BCA brand, fit perfectly and has a lifetime warrenty. It was much easier to change once I borrowed a hub puller from Murray's. Took about 1.5 hours. Be sure to spray all bolts and the axle nut the night before with PB B'laster. The axle nut is a 36mm, be sure to get a new one. I used my impact gun to get the old one off. Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Posted November 28, 2005 Alright, so actually, I snapped off a wheel stud :cuss: :dammit: Can I just replace a stud and be on my way? (for now?) Quote
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 yep..you'll more than likely have to remove the bearing from the car to replace the stud though...its not too bad Quote
Jcrow Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 get the good name/more expensive one Quote
GP1138 Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 yep..you'll more than likely have to remove the bearing from the car to replace the stud though...its not too bad Replacing the wheel stud on my old GP was fairly easy. Remove the axle nut, breake caliper and bracket, and rotor, remove the four bolts for the hub, remove the hub and pound the new stud in. I believe we used a mini sledge for that. Never had any more problems with it. You may need a chisel or something to pound the rest of the broken stud out. Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Posted November 28, 2005 do the balljoint, tierod and axle have to come out? :oops: :? Quote
GP1138 Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 do the balljoint, tierod and axle have to come out? :oops: :? Honestly, I don't think so. I really can't remember. :oops: Sorry. Quote
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 no...just remove the axle nut, and the 4 hub bolts and it will come off with a little bit of tapping on the drive axle with a hammer and a block of wood Quote
Crazy K Posted November 28, 2005 Report Posted November 28, 2005 You don't need to pound it in place, only pound it out. Pound the old stud out with a hammer, (any medium duty one should work, a sledge isn't necessary) make sure the new stud is the same length as the others, and see if you can slip it into position from behind the hub. It it won't fit, then you have to remove the hub. Autozone (and probably advanced) will have a rental socket for the drive shaft nut. Read this link. About 1/4 the way down the page shows you a loose hub and the strut assembly with removal instructions. (it is identical to yours) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/473859/6 When I replace a stud, I tighten a lug nut on the stud to pull it in place on the hub. put the hub back on the car, (if you had to take it off) Then: mount the wheel back on, (use the spare tire if you have alloy wheels!) put the other four lug nuts on, put a dab of grease on the last lug nut, and carefully thread it onto the new shaft. Tighten. back it off and tighten again... do this about 5 times. this will force the lug in place. Assuming you made sure the lug is the same length, it should be at the same level as the others. I alwasy pop the wheel back off to make sure the lug head has seated. good luck - Ken Quote
GutlessSupreme Posted November 28, 2005 Author Report Posted November 28, 2005 Alright, I just wasn't sure if it'd come off the axle easily. The top two bolts look like a pain in the ass to get at with the CV boot in the way though.. I hope they're not too rusty I just tore apart a spare strut tower assembly to see how difficult it would be and nearly stripped one of the bolts while carefully using my 18" breaker bar. These shouldn't be too bad though, the ones on the car are off a '97 Lumina so they're not as old (and hopefully not as rusty). I think this whole thing was the result of a bad/stripped/crossthreaded lug that I tried to force back on too many times.. And that's how I was planning on getting the new one in.. just use a lug to pull it through. just future reference for anyone reading this thread: Hub bolts (x4) are 15mm. Caliper bracket bolts (x2) T60 Torx Axle nut is 36mm (I've gotten to know these last 3 bolts all too well on these damn cars) And no, the studs won't fit out the back of the hub with it still attached to the strut tower. Needs another half inch or so of clearence. Quote
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