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So, what would you do if you kept blowing trannies......


TurboZ24

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So, I'm too the point where I'm considering what too do with my car.

 

I dynoed the car, 310.2 wheel HP At 7 psi. Ran it at the track, calculated the HP at 430 wheel HP at 16 psi, smoked the tranny.

 

So, I'm trying too decide what too do with it. Either keep the car, put a LSD in there (if I Can get it cheap), never race it again, and keep the boost relatively low (excepy maybe dyno runs).

 

Or pull the motor, sell the Z, and put the motor into something RWD that I can actually put the power down in and not blow the tranny.....

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I think you should stop shifting at 8k:P seriously, thats not gonna make it happy. Detune it some and drive it. You can always put a stock 3400 in there and boost it and use it on the street with moderate boost. Put your built motor into something else more durable.

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Curtis...what torque are you putting down? HP #'s don't really mean much when building a tranny that can handle the load. I have tried to contact the local tranny builder here in town that will gaurantee some high torque numbers with the 282 Getrag.

 

I need to get ahold of him soon because I think my tranny is losing a bearing! :shock: I will have him build me his high torque tranny and then the clutch and tranny will be ready for whatever I throw at it. :wink: 8)

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wheel torque was 290 @ 7 psi. So, wheel torque might be around 400 @ 16 psi.

 

I do know what is the issue with the shifting myself, though. The other "issue" with the HM-282 I have is case shift issues, the case sections shift, breaking the sealant between the cases. I've also lost the mounting bosses on the case before also.

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Guest TurboSedan
I have tried to contact the local tranny builder here in town that will gaurantee some high torque numbers with the 282 Getrag.

 

i'd be interested in that too Kenny. i'd drive down to The Springs with my 282 if i had to. i'm worried about my 282....it has a rattle that sounds like a loose heat shield but i think it's a bearing :( well at least i have an extra good 282 sitting in the garage if/when this one goes :?

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Josh...I will try again this week to get with him. I will post here what he tells me.

 

Curtis...The case shifting issue? Where is it shifting? I was just under mine yesterday and was looking around for the first time since I sold it to Luke, and did not see anything that looked like the tranny was in trouble or leaking. I just get a funky vibration now and again at certain RPMs while highway driving. Makes me believe it is an internal balance or bearing issue. 8)

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I usually have issues between the main case and the bellhousing/differential case. That's where it usually shift and busts the seal. I do run solid engine mounts also, though. You guys also use a different mount style and I think I might be able too reduce issues if I add additional mounts too the case.

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I can't say on mine that I see any movement there. My tranny was gone through to check for clearances and shimming before it was put in for the swap. By the same guy who makes the high zook 282 trannies. He said the inside of the tranny looked brand new compared to most he sees come through there.

 

The mounts on mine are...bellhousing to block (of course), and a rubber mount at the tail of the tranny to the subframe. Then you have the upper dogbones...three point dogbone on the drivers side and two point on the passengers side. Lower mount is at the bottom of the engine block to subframe.

 

I want to put a three point on the passengers side also so people quit asking me...how come there is a three point here and not here! :roll: :lol: 8)

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On the Cav, we only have the primary mount on top (bell housing too engine bolts and 2 too the top of the trans case), then we have 1 lower dog bone subframe too front of the tranny case. I think if I add another solid mount from the bell housing/diff case too the sunframe, I might solve the shift/mounting tab issues.

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Yea..our J/L bodies don't have the extra supporting tranny mounts the w-body, Fieros do. Basicly just grabed on to the top of the tranny and hold it there and depend on the engine mounts to keep it from rocking and a tranny dog bone mount to hold the tranny from moving too much.

 

Thank god I replaced my old tranny mount to a more "Center gravity" kind. Though I don't have the axle snaping power you do. So I won't know how well it did on my car.

 

Maybe Its just the John Force style burn outs that stress the drive line when everything is spinning at 8K RPM or who knows...40-50mph and then just WHAMO...DEAD STOP. I think Jeff M broke a tranny like that but on a pot hole and tire did 50mph..and boom..broken tranny. I did that with my 87 Chevy PU...Jack the wheels up on back and Put in drive checking for a bent rim I suspected from wheel shake..GOT upset and ran it to 60 and slamed on the brakes...POOR tranny just broke off from the bell housing.

 

Mybe just smoke them a little and be done with it. SLip the clutch in while trans braking with a stick (i'ved done this on my 5spd 87 Ford TC)....and relase the clutch and brake and lean on the gas.

 

I was thinking the John Force burn out or suspension Geometry is out of alighent.

On another note, I've heard the New Venture trannies had stronger parts form the old bro 282s. I know the diff sun gears were stronger or something.

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Well, I have blown 1 differential on the highway, and then another one at the track. The first one blew the pin, the second one, the actual axle output gears on the diff blew apart.

 

I do realize that swapping too an LSD would help with the Diff, but then the next weak link will break. That's why I was thinking that if I kept the car, I just would never drag race it again. I need too make sure that the car can never achieve enough traction too put too much load on the tranny, which of course would also mean limiting the maximum power of the car severly. I think it's kind of a waste too never crank up the boost and see the most HP she could put out.

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What about the new 6-speed from the G6 I thought it could handle more torque plus has much better mounts. ?

 

I'm surprised the 282 has held up to that at all. I think a lot of it has to do with the RPM you're running and the fact you're pushing double what the trans is meant to hold. Not to mention those burnouts :drool: Sweet car man. How's the new exhaust/turbo setup working, like compared to the old one?

 

Atleast I know it will hold up to anything mine will be putting down, although 6th gear would be nice too.

 

I think you might have helped me find the leak on my first 282, if the two halves can move that makes sense, I just figured a leak shouldn't have started there.

 

 

Drop the engine in a fiero where a 282 would probably take it.

 

 

 

 

Dual 3-point mounts also looks cooler.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/Baddflash/000_0134.jpg

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The F40 6 speed is not rated much higher than a 282 Getrag.

 

Maximum engine torque: 245 lb-ft ( 333 Nm )

Maximum gearbox torque: 295 lb-ft ( 400 Nm )

Gear ratios: MT2

First: 3.77

Second: 2.04

Third: 1.32

Fourth: 0.95

Fifth: 0.76

Sixth: 0.62

Reverse: 3.54

Final Drive 3.55

 

It is a great idea to put an extra gear in a tranny...but the final drive is not far from a 282 either.

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I've looked at the 4T65E, cost a bunch too get it too hold up, and that 700 dollar tranny controller is a sticking point, not too mention trying too stuff the 4T65E into a Cavalier.

 

Thought about the 4-speed Muncie, thought maybe it was tougher. The issue with Fiero would be worse, RWD, rear engine = good traction. The only choice for the Fiero would be too slap in the NSX tranny setup, but once again, it's waaay expensive.

 

As for the new exhaust, it lags a little more, takes until 3500 or so too reach 20 psi, but the dyno numbers seem too say it's working well.

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Fiero's are lighter and people are putting 454 and northstars on the 282's in them and they seem to hold up, just a thought.

 

I guess you'll have to go rear wheel drive, like a 2.8 or 3.4L camaro perhaps. It just isn't as cool in something like that though. Good luck either way.

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Actually, I've asked lots of Fiero shops. The trannies survive simply because they never put sticky tires on those cars. Put Drag Radials or slicks on them, and the trannies blow.

 

See, the real issue is having power + traction so you can use the power. I can simply fix my tranny, get it running again, but I need too ensure that the weak link is the rubber. It makes it difficult too drive when you sacrifice traction too ensure the tranny holds up.

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The guy I know who builds the 282's here in the Springs will be back after the 1st of December. He got caught in the blizzard out in the mid-west when he was returning from Turkey day with his family. He told his guys to let me know he will call me when he gets back.

 

Stay tuned! :wink: 8)

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I know Pontiac Jeff has been running a 3t40 built with racing parts. Like mine..I don't know..but his motor spins as high as yours..6-7.5K rpm. I might not have the HP you do..but I would be close to your Tq if I play with the boost. If this tranny holds...I would highly recomend it to you. BUT not just yet.

 

If that fails..IM going to try a 4t45. Yea...45.

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I talked too someone about using a slushbox (HM-125C). It's a less than exciting tranny. The issue is with the RPM, then the issue is with the power. I intended too run a lot more than just 7 psi. A local GM FWD tranny shop said that the 125C contained too many stamped steel parts too be reliable.

 

Still looking, though.

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Ok...word from my guy this morning. I am going to swing by his shop on Saturday for a "little talk" about the getrags and what we can do to get them for less than our first borns. :wink:

 

I am assuming all would want an LSD in place? 8)

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True gear based LSD, sure. Not a clutch style or "push" style like that engineered performance or the Phantom crap.

 

x2 I'd love to have an LSD to put in the 282 before it makes it way into the car.

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