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CS-130D swap into 3.1 Multiport


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Posted

I hope I'm not asking a stupid question here, but

 

 

How easy/hard would it be to install a CS130-D into a 3.1 w-body equipped with a CS130?

 

Anyone have any info about Wiring differences? Mounting differences? Would it even align with the belt?

 

Thanks

Posted

Yeah, those links don't even touch this. There were like 6 posts betwwen the 2 links, and one was about the 3.4. Do we need brackets from a newer 3.1? 3100? I know the plug is different, and the wiring simply needs changed to the newer plug. How about power steering lines? Does the old rear brace still bolt up? How about the newer one?

Posted

Would be usefull to name the thread " CS130-D into 3.1?" or something along those lines other than "alternator question". If everyone made stuff more specific then in the future the stupid search function would actually be easy to use. Just a general suggestion to everyone.

 

Sorry for the hijack.

Posted

im curious on this too, My alt is definatly going dead, its rusty fan and its starting to howl, and the lights dim like crazy under any load. So an Adapter is the only thing needed for this? Or Will it mount in the same spots? And where do you get these again?

Posted
Would be usefull to name the thread " CS130-D into 3.1?" or something along those lines other than "alternator question". If everyone made stuff more specific then in the future the stupid search function would actually be easy to use. Just a general suggestion to everyone.

 

Sorry for the hijack.

 

point taken

 

 

back to the first post, does the CS-130D bolt right onto a 3.1 Multiport? If not, what mounting mods are required?

 

What wiring mods are required too? I've never seen a CS-130D plug, so saying "change the plug/wiring" doesn't tell me shit

Posted
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What wiring mods are required too? I've never seen a CS-130D plug, so saying "change the plug/wiring" doesn't tell me shit

 

I don't know about mounting it, but I'm assuming you might just need to cut and splice the wire connector. It's what, like 2 wires?

Posted

Yea, GarrettPowered has information about the CS-130D and the 3.1. I'm honestly surprised he hasn't seen this thread yet. Shoot him a PM, I'm sure he could give you some advice.

Posted
Yea, GarrettPowered has information about the CS-130D and the 3.1. I'm honestly surprised he hasn't seen this thread yet. Shoot him a PM, I'm sure he could give you some advice.

 

 

thanks, but

 

Sorry, this user doesn't exist.
Posted
Yea, GarrettPowered has information about the CS-130D and the 3.1. I'm honestly surprised he hasn't seen this thread yet. Shoot him a PM, I'm sure he could give you some advice.

I was going to recommend talking to him as well, he seems to have a boner for those CS-130D's when someone posts about electrical problems. :lol: I'm not sure for far out of the TGP section he ventures though.

Posted

The CS-130D in my 94 Cutlass doesn't seem to be any more reliable than the CS-130.

 

I don't have the service info for older cars with me, but the CS-130D wiring is very simple. I looked up both 96 and 2000. The big wire is the output wire, and there is a 2nd wire to turn on the alternator. The alternator is grounded through its body. Very simple. The ALT light is controlled by the PCM when it detects an undervoltage condition. I could be wrong, but I thought on the CS-130, the alternator itself had an output to drive the light. This doesn't seem to be there on the CS-130D's, although the 130D's have 2 unused pins. One of them possibly could drive an ALT light.

 

Physically, I think you'd have to change that bracket that bolts onto the head. The pics I've seen of CS-130D's look like the mounting is different.

Posted

OK, I found out the Phoenix Gold alt. story my friend told me was total bullshit and he will be recieving a dead arm for it. There was no such thing as a 15-16 volt system available according to reliable sources.

 

So if you want to look into a Stinger brand one you may have better luck. I guess they have a 325 amp model.

 

If you want one that puts out a reliable 165 amps then go with a CS130D that has its internals beefed up with a bigger stater , capaciters, brushes. I had one built at a custom alternater shop. They had to get the case clocked right and needed my bracket so they could machine it down on the upper mount so it would fit. So bring in the bracket. The wiring can be tricky, but the letters corespond on the plug if I remember right.

Then we figured out how to run a better charge wire. We just shrink wrapped the factory charge wire and the ring terminal on it and tucked it down because running 2 charge wires was splitting the voltage and would not keep the battery charged that way. I run a 2 gauge charge wire right off the alt. post. The stud on a cs 130 d is bigger around and the factory ring don't fit anyway. So just run a 4 gauge(at least) wire from the alt to the charge post. And you will not benefit completely from all this until you make new 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the frame and block/alt. bracket to frame. Don't forget to wireloom all wires with split loom.

Posted
OK, I found out the Phoenix Gold alt. story my friend told me was total bullshit and he will be recieving a dead arm for it. There was no such thing as a 15-16 volt system available according to reliable sources.

 

So if you want to look into a Stinger brand one you may have better luck. I guess they have a 325 amp model.

 

If you want one that puts out a reliable 165 amps then go with a CS130D that has its internals beefed up with a bigger stater , capaciters, brushes. I had one built at a custom alternater shop. They had to get the case clocked right and needed my bracket so they could machine it down on the upper mount so it would fit. So bring in the bracket. The wiring can be tricky, but the letters corespond on the plug if I remember right.

Then we figured out how to run a better charge wire. We just shrink wrapped the factory charge wire and the ring terminal on it and tucked it down because running 2 charge wires was splitting the voltage and would not keep the battery charged that way. I run a 2 gauge charge wire right off the alt. post. The stud on a cs 130 d is bigger around and the factory ring don't fit anyway. So just run a 4 gauge(at least) wire from the alt to the charge post. And you will not benefit completely from all this until you make new 4 gauge grounds from the battery to the frame and block/alt. bracket to frame. Don't forget to wireloom all wires with split loom.

 

I take it you're saying it takes machine work to fit a CS-130D into a 3.1?

 

I didn't follow your directions totally.

 

 

Thanks for the info.

Posted

I'd be real suprised if the one from a 3100 wouldn't bolt right on as I have seen several '94 Berettas with 3100's that have the old CS-130 on them...especially since the alternators are mounted in the same spot. You might just need some 3100 brackets.

 

here's an old pic...i'd get a better one if i had the car here...I've got the Quad.

100_0130.jpg

Posted

this spring i'm going to aquire a CS-130D and 3100 brackets and go from there.

 

 

that's a good idea though, i didn't think of using 3100 brackets at all. I just wonder if 3100 brackets will bolt to a 3.1.

Posted

I think all the guy did was grind it down. But I guess he used a lathe to do it. When I got it back it was painted.

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