New computer still running like POO!!!

[3.1LUMITIC]

Well i got a new computer for my car thinking it was the problem i have had for the last few months. But after replacing the computer the car wouldnt hold idle. I replace the IAC and it held idle for a few minutes but died. The problem im having now is the car will not start without me giving it gas and wont hold idle until fully warmed up. The car spits and sputters from 1k -2.5k rpm then is fine after 3k. When i pull away from a stop light the rpms will drop really low and i have to floor it to get it to go.

 

So there you have it

[LumiDriver]

Check your ignition and fuel systems. check Fuel filters, pump(s) and your plugs, wires, packs..etc

[Vegeta]

is your coolant temp sensor good? How about your O2 sensor?

[3.1LUMITIC]

well for the codes the only one i can pull is 66?

[Pabz]

Coils and ICM dood.

[Dan94Z34]

Check the Basics, spark, fuel, and air. Get one of those $2.00 spark testers and see if you have spark. If u do check your fuel pressure, If you have good fuel pressure, get a noid light and check to see if the injectors are pulsing.

[3.1LUMITIC]

Well i checked my fuel pressure good at 40 psi and coil packs are all firing blue spark so thats good as for the icm im changing it today. but i dont think thats my problem sounds like a real bad miss and off timing. everything ive replaced.

IAC

ICM

all upper gaskets

FPR

TPS

2 new coil packs

fuel filter

new computer

spark plugs ac delco

spark plug wires ac delco

alt 2 times

Do these cars have timing chains or belts? and this problems mostly happen in closed loop and get a lil better in open. Closed loop i have to hold the gas down or it will die and in open loop the idle with sway up and down from 600-700 rpm to 1500 rpm over and over. went i give it gas from a start it almost dies then the rpms kick up high. i have to keep it floored just to get it going and it spit sputters and its feels like its jumping a down a gear on the hwy at wot and it accel.. real slow.

[Crazy K]

Replace the Temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. It tells the ecm the car's temperature, and if bad often gives the car false readings without triggering the check engine light. A false reading of warm on a cold engine will make the car run way too lean. (use teflon to seal (i prefer the liquid teflon, and make sure you bleed to ait from the thermostat housing, i do this by fisrt removing the thermostat to ensure it's spring is emersed in coolant and them the bleeder valve on top

Other tips: try cleaning out the egr port.

good luck and let us know the result

[3.1LUMITIC]

Well should i go with a 180 or 160 im going to replace both at the same time.

[Crazy K]

I wouldn't replace the thermostat with anything but a 195 personally. The performance gains aren't very significant, and you would have to get a performance chip compatable with a colder thermostat. You might be able to get away with a 180 easily. but this would affect the amount of heat your car would generate here in the middle of winter, and could cause "open loop" where your car never heats up enough to run right. I believe the so called performance you would get is the ecm compensating for a cold engine by enriching the mixture. Get a k&n filter instead.

Besides... Wouldn't you want the car to run 100% correct before you get into doing that type of mod? It takes me one minute ( + or - 30 seconds) to change the thermo on mine. Worry about that later! -ken