Odd Problem...*Detailed post*

[z34_nut]

Ok, so I've had dash problems for a little while ago, but I've just been lazy as far as getting help goes. Needless to say my DIN connecter is fucked. All the wires are loose, and they have horrible connections.

 

Basically my dash works fine except for my speedo. Every now and then my fuel gauge with fuck up, but a light tap will bring it back to its senses. Now heres the good stuff.

 

My Speedo needle has been dead for a while now, but I've gotton used to reading my RPM's so I havn't felt the rush to fix it. I also learned the speed/rpm because of my DIC (which works perfect). Well I bought some 4x6 kenwoods to fill the void in my dash and installed them. While I was there I figured I would take a stab at the dash.

 

With the helpfull, but usless pin out for the z34 cluster by my side, I still couldn't get the damn speedo to even set at zero. After about 2-3 hours of tightening all of my loose connections, The speedo still wouldn't work unless you moved the harness to a specific point (in other words applied pressure in a certain direction). I zipped tied the harness up and the speedo seemed to have a signal.

 

It was set at zero, and I decided to take it for a spin to see if bumps would make it jitter and die on me. Well the ride didn't disturb its resting spot at zero except for one spot, and I tapped the dash and it returned to zero...My problem is it isn't displaying speed. My DIC is still working great, but for some unknown reason, the speedo will not go above 0 MPH.

 

It seems to be getting some sort of signal, or it wouldn't reset at 0 mph everytime I gave the cluster power, right? I just can't figure out why it wouldn't be getting speed.

 

Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to give you as much of a visual as I can. Any help is great, thanks guys..

[birdman]

vss mabey?

[Euro]

thats my guess...but i dunno if the 284 is electonically controlled like i.e the 4t60e

 

not all trans' have the vss

[1990lumina]

Sounds like you have a short in one of your signal wires in the harness....or maybe in the connection to the cluster itself??

 

That's wierd how the speedo will go up to zero though....considering I haven't seen the pinouts for the cluster...are there two different wires?? One to "activate" the speedo, and another one carrying speed info on it?? Probably not, but that's just wierd!!

 

Good luck and free bump!

[z34_nut]

Well the thing is, last time I worked on it, I got the speedo to work. The reason it died AGAIN is because I hit a bump shortly after fixing it, and I just got fustrated and forgot about it.

 

So while I had the front dash apart today I figured I would nail it one last time, but my efforts suck. I still feel like I need to wire in a whole new harness, but I'm gonna have an impossable time trying to find one with oil pressure instead of batt.

[birdman]

i find ones with oil pressure at the yard all the time

[z34_nut]

Heres the thing, if is was the vss, the DIC would not work. Its spliced into the SAME wire, right next to the cluster. The last time I tried to fix it, I soldered the wires togeather, thinking it was just a bad splice. like I said, it worked, but not for long.

[z34_nut]

i find ones with oil pressure at the yard all the time

 

For real??

 

If you can find another one, would you be so kind to grab it? Just keep in mind its KEY to have ALL the pins solid. No loose wires, no play at all, it needs to be 100%. Also, make sure you cut plenty of extra wire along with it.

[birdman]

then i would say an internal cluster problem if the dic still gets good data

[Guest Anonymous]

I would obviously check your VSS and ground connections, but you may have to get a new cluster. The coil things behind the needle sometimes go bad, and its just shot. You can replace those as well, in the GP ones there are 4 allen screws that hold them down. But i would just get a new cluster and swap the odometer. The early analog gauges are notorious for acting up and dying.

[slick]

Bad cluster. Almost guarantee it.

[z34_nut]

I have STRONG suspisions its not the cluster. I am willing to bet its the din connector. If you move the wires in the wrong direction the dash lights will go out, the oil pressure will die, the fuel will die, highbeam indicator light comes on and off...and so on.

 

I think a possibility is that the speed indicator wire is shorting, perhaps by the solder where it was spliced. This would be the reason for setting to zero, but no indicated speed. I have another dash around here some where, but its for a 3.4 euro. In other words it has the PNRD321 on the cluster.

 

Is the speedo its self just a bolt on? Can I take off my old speedo, and replace it with the speedo from the cluster I have now? Reasons being all my gauges are backlit red, and it would be a SERIOUS pain in the ass to swap all the red film over to a whole new cluster.

 

Another thing I want to stress is the fact that the speedo DOES work. Proven by my last attempt. The only difference this time is the fact its getting a nuetral signal, but its not picking up speed....hrm *checks out the FAQ section*

[z34_nut]

C2 - Black - Ground- Obviously works

C3 - Gray - Dimmer- Also works just swell

C5 - PPL - Fuel Level- This pin is loose also, it just isn't as picky as the speedo

C7 - Dk Grn - Coolant Temp- Some times dies ALONG with oil press

C9 - Lt Blue - Left Turn Signal- Never had issues

C11 - Yellow - Fasten Seat Belts Ind- Will dim when I adjust DIN connector

C13 - Tan - Oil Pressure Indicator- Will die with Coolent temp

C15 - Brn - Charge Indicator- Don't have one...

C16 - Yel/Blk - Low Coolant- This light will come on when Coolent and Oil press die.

 

D1 - Dk Blue - RH Turn Signal- Is as finniky as the speedo. Only works after pushing wire to certain point, but I can't sustain pressure.

D2 - Lt Grn - High Beams- Read above.

D3 - Tan/Blk - Shift Indicator- I dunno if it ever worked.

D4 - Pnk/Blk - Ignition Power- What exactly does this do?

D5 - Dk Grn - Speedometer- This has been a wicked brat.

D6 - Black - Ground- Works?

D9 - White - Tach Wire- Works perfect

D11 - Pink/Blk - Ignition Power- What does this do?

D13 - Tan/Wht - Brake indicator- Works, but seems to be finiky..like when my backlight goes out.

D15 - Lt Grn/Blk - Antilock indicator- Same as above.

D16 - Brn/Wht - SES Light.- No problem.

[birdman]

are you sure it was for a euro 3.4 because i didnt think the 3.4 could get colum shift? why dont you hook the wire directly to the connector to see if it really is the connector

[Stevo]

None of the wires have been bent sharply in anyway as in line breakage inside the insulation?

[z34_nut]

are you sure it was for a euro 3.4 because i didnt think the 3.4 could get colum shift? why dont you hook the wire directly to the connector to see if it really is the connector

 

In order to do that I would have to de-pin the connector...Chances of getting an old connector back togeather after dismantling it...not very good. Mabey it wasn't a 3.4 Euro, mabey a highly optioned Lumina with colum shift.

 

That did spark an idea though..I'm gonna take an old speaker wire, wrap it around the solder, and the hold some how fasten it to the speedo directly.. Take a jog around the block with it, and I'll post the results.

[z34_nut]

None of the wires have been bent sharply in anyway as in line breakage inside the insulation?

 

Nothing visually extreme. If they did break, I assume even wiggling the connecter wouldn't allow a broken wire to work.

[99RegalGS]

I suggest to try replacing just the wire terminals in the connector. Sounds to me that someone stuck a volt/ohm meter probe into the terminals, opening them up and causing the loose connection.

[z34_nut]

I suggest to try replacing just the wire terminals in the connector. Sounds to me that someone stuck a volt/ohm meter probe into the terminals, opening them up and causing the loose connection.

 

But where can I get those, thats my question...I seriously have no idea where to find new terminals. I didn't even think they made any.

[99RegalGS]

I got some at carquest in sept. They're named "GM-metri pack terminals" Part # TA717. Hope this helps.

[stockgp]

you can get them at advance. they're sold in a gm variety pack for like 10 bucks.

 

my guess would be there is a broken solder on the board of the cluster. rty taking off the back of it and resoldering the connector on the board.