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Ideas? Getrag 282 clutch not fully engauging


nerfbars

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I just put a motor in my 88 Cutlass Int with a factory 5spd. While I was putting it in I installed a new clutch. I bought the car with a toasted motor so I havent driven it before tonight. One of the last things I did was bolt on the clutch slave cylinder. When the car is off it shifts nice and smooth. When the car is running you can barely shift it. You have to force and wiggle the shifter to get it in gear and to shift gears. It acts like the clutch isnt disenguaging when I push in the clutch pedal. I may have accidently pushed the clutch pedal when I had the slave unbolted... could that have messed things up? Maybe the system needs to be bled? I never unhooked the slave just unbolted it from the trans. The clutch fluid is full so I dont know what the deal is. I appreciate any suggestions you may have.

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Oh man, I've been there.

 

First thing to do is to push, then wait, then release the pedal about 20-30 times. Don't pump, as you just airate the fluid. Try this and then see if you can shift while the engine is running.

 

You said the car already had the 5 speed? I ask because my 5 speed parts came from a 1988 Cutlass, and I have a 1991. I had to make the clutch master cylinder rod adjustable and make it longer for normal disengaugement of the clutch. I think the clutch or master cylinder changed between 88 and 91. Of course, if yours already has the 5 speed, this is not of your concern.

 

The other thing is you may have to bleed the system. This is EXTREMELY difficult because the system is supposed to bleed itself--but it doesn't. Tell me this...if you pump the pedal (I know I said not to, but if this works you need to bleed anyhow), will it disengauge then? Can you shift into first at a stop?

 

I bleed mine by submergeing the slave cylinder in a tub of brake fluid, and disconnecting the hydrulic line. I then pump the slave cylinder (while still submerged in fluid) until all air is gone. I then have someone push the clutch pedal in and out slowly to release air from the line. Once all air is gone (no bubbles) you can reconnect the line to the slave cylinder. Remember, this is all done submerged in brake fluid. There is of course another way to do it, but it requires special tools which I don't have.

 

Good luck! I fought my clutch problem for a month.

 

Jason

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Guest TurboSedan

sounds like the system needs to be bled. i didn't have any problems at all bleeding my system, and i replaced the master cylinder with a new one and also removed and replaced the slave cylinder so the line was disconnected at both ends. first - fill the slave cylinder thru the hydrualic line port with brake fluid while holding the slave cylinder at a 45' angle until full. then hold the end of the line in a clear container filled with brake fluid while a friend pumps the clutch pedal *slowly* until no more air comes out of the line. then lube the o-ring and push the line into the slave cylinder and press the roll pin back in with a pliers. make sure the reservoir doesn't empty while you're bleeding the system of course....it's just like bleeding brakes really. i have only done this once and it took me about 20 minutes and haven't had a problem since. good luck...

hth

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan

You said the car already had the 5 speed? I ask because my 5 speed parts came from a 1988 Cutlass, and I have a 1991. I had to make the clutch master cylinder rod adjustable and make it longer for normal disengaugement of the clutch. I think the clutch or master cylinder changed between 88 and 91. Of course, if yours already has the 5 speed, this is not of your concern.

 

Jason

 

wow, never heard of that problem. my 5-speed came from a '90 GP, and i didn't need to do anything to the clutch master cylinder rod. maybe things changed from '89-'90? fwiw, my haynes manual shows a Getrag 284 clutch setup for the '88 2.8 W-body.... :?: wierd.

joshua

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Yea, that is werid. The thing never worked right until I cut, then tapped the two pieces of the master cylinder rod, then welded 3 nuts together to make the connector. Then I adjusted it a lot, and it worked great. Actually, I think my trans came from a 88, and my Cutlass is a 91. I do have the microfische for both cars, but I'm too lazy to look up the pedal, or the dash brace to see if they are different.

 

I tried to bleed mine that way you described, but it never worked right. There was always still a little air in the system, so my weird method was the only thing that actually worked.

 

Jason

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Thanks for the ideas. I will try them as soon as my dad finishes rebuilding a motor for a skidder and gets it out of the garage. I'm done freezing my butt off outside.

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