My battery Relocation Pics......

[AWeb80]

http://photobucket.com/albums/v639/AWeb/Battery%20Relocation%20and%20Fender%20Well%20Intake/

 

 

I did this so that I can make a FWI.....now i just need to find where to get a Silicone 3x3" adapter @ 45* angle.

[birdman]

what gauge wire did you use??

[AWeb80]

I "had" 4 & 10 already running to the trunk for my amps.....so I just used those and took the fuses out of the engine side of the wires, put ends on the wires to hook them to the battery, and sand down the area around some exsiting bolts for the grounds, drill holes for the battery tray and bingo.

 

 

I think the cost, w/o the battery was like $30.....since the wiring was already there.....the fuse and fuse holder were $11 apiece. and it is a 200 amp fuse.

[birdman]

thanks for the info, i have 4ga already and wasnt sure if it was big enough. what did you do with the pos. battery terminal? i was thinkin about just wrappin it in electrical tape.

[93GTP]

I used 4 ga wire when I relocated my battery to the trunk and it has been trouble free for 3 years. I lost the alternator about a year ago but I believe that was because it was a cheap rebuilt one with cheap internals. I replaced it with a new AC Delco alt and the battery with an Optima Red Top.

[99RegalGS]

looks good Adam, but I'd buy a larger fuse than 200amps. The first cold day you try to start it, it'll probably blow the 200Amp fuse.

[DiscoStudd]

I gotta make one nitpick. You tied the 4 ga wire to the Aux post and left the wimpy 8 ga wire that tied the original battery cable to the Aux post. Looks to me like that's your only way of linking the starter to the battery. So if it's 4 ga from the battery, run through that small section of 8 ga, then to the original battery cable, that small section of 8 ga becomes the weak link.

 

That section of wire was not designed to carry the high current that your starter demands (it was only supposed to supply power to the fusebox.) You should run the original battery cable up to the Aux terminal (or tie your 4 ga wire directly to the original battery cable) so you don't burn up that small section of 8 ga wire...

[Miko K]

Well, not to pick on you, just a suggestion. Your car will not be allowed to 1/4 mile tracks the way it is. Your bracket is far too weak- only plastic. Basically, by the NHRA it is mandatory for relocated batteries to have a battery cut off switch mounted on the back of the car and the minimum thickness of the 2 studs that hold the battery down is 3/8". I had a similar setup and I wasn't allowed to race at NE Dragway.

[AWeb80]

I gotta make one nitpick. You tied the 4 ga wire to the Aux post and left the wimpy 8 ga wire that tied the original battery cable to the Aux post. Looks to me like that's your only way of linking the starter to the battery. So if it's 4 ga from the battery, run through that small section of 8 ga, then to the original battery cable, that small section of 8 ga becomes the weak link.

 

That section of wire was not designed to carry the high current that your starter demands (it was only supposed to supply power to the fusebox.) You should run the original battery cable up to the Aux terminal (or tie your 4 ga wire directly to the original battery cable) so you don't burn up that small section of 8 ga wire...

 

 

Ooo, thanks for the info....i see what your saying...i think.

 

I should have 4ga and run it from the remote terminal to the starter?

[DiscoStudd]

Ooo, thanks for the info....i see what your saying...i think.

 

I should have 4ga and run it from the remote terminal to the starter?

Yeah. Look at where your original positive cable used to connect to the battery. The large cable runs to the starter. Instead of running your "trunk wire" to the positive post, you should put a bolt through your original battery cable's connector (where it connected to the battery) and connect the "trunk wire" to it there (and then wrap it good with electrical tape...)

[AWeb80]

O, ok. I'll do that.

 

I took it for a drive for the first time in 2 wks and everything worked perfect.

 

I only have .2 volts of drop from engine to trunk.

 

I drove for about 3 hrs and no problems so far.

[mfewtrail]

Well, not to pick on you, just a suggestion. Your car will not be allowed to 1/4 mile tracks the way it is. Your bracket is far too weak- only plastic. Basically, by the NHRA it is mandatory for relocated batteries to have a battery cut off switch mounted on the back of the car and the minimum thickness of the 2 studs that hold the battery down is 3/8". I had a similar setup and I wasn't allowed to race at NE Dragway.

 

If you only run test/tune nights, you should be fine. I always run at an NHRA track and they take a quick glance under the hood and then you're through tech.

[sonyman87]

Well, not to pick on you, just a suggestion. Your car will not be allowed to 1/4 mile tracks the way it is. Your bracket is far too weak- only plastic. Basically, by the NHRA it is mandatory for relocated batteries to have a battery cut off switch mounted on the back of the car and the minimum thickness of the 2 studs that hold the battery down is 3/8". I had a similar setup and I wasn't allowed to race at NE Dragway.

 

If you only run test/tune nights, you should be fine. I always run at an NHRA track and they take a quick glance under the hood and then you're through tech.

 

thats only if you are runing faster then 14.0

same as the helmat rule, firejacket rule, or rollcage

[bve32k]

What is the difference if someone used 4 guage and 2 guage? On here Aweb used 4 guage, but if you buy a battery relocation kit they all come with 2 guage.

[Jcrow]

Looks good! I use a 150amp fuse and had no problems for almost a year. I carry a 200 amp just in case

[Miko K]

Well, not to pick on you, just a suggestion. Your car will not be allowed to 1/4 mile tracks the way it is. Your bracket is far too weak- only plastic. Basically, by the NHRA it is mandatory for relocated batteries to have a battery cut off switch mounted on the back of the car and the minimum thickness of the 2 studs that hold the battery down is 3/8". I had a similar setup and I wasn't allowed to race at NE Dragway.

 

If you only run test/tune nights, you should be fine. I always run at an NHRA track and they take a quick glance under the hood and then you're through tech.

 

thats only if you are runing faster then 14.0

same as the helmat rule, firejacket rule, or rollcage

 

Yep, I guess they knew that I run faster than 14 They didn't even let me in on a test/tune day. Bastards... But I bought the official NHRA book and it says that it's mandatory for relocated batteris to have a cut-off switch mounted on the back of the car with clear ON/OFF positions, and also the battery mounting studs no less than 3/8. So that's my $0.02

[slick]

So wait... you left that 10 ga for your amp running clear back up to the front of the car when your battery is in the trunk??? Thats what it's looking like in the pictures.

 

PLUS, you never want to hook your amp pos. cable to the AUX. post, ALWAYS hook up directly to the battery.

[bve32k]

So wait... you left that 10 ga for your amp running clear back up to the front of the car when your battery is in the trunk??? Thats what it's looking like in the pictures.

 

PLUS, you never want to hook your amp pos. cable to the AUX. post, ALWAYS hook up directly to the battery.

I have experienced this before. If you hook more than what is up to the AUX post it will start corroding and you will start losing your connection.

[mfewtrail]

 

If you only run test/tune nights, you should be fine. I always run at an NHRA track and they take a quick glance under the hood and then you're through tech.

 

thats only if you are runing faster then 14.0

same as the helmat rule, firejacket rule, or rollcage

 

 

According to their site and rule book all cars with a relocated battery must have an exterior cutoff switch. And as I said before, if you run at test and tune nights, they probably don't even care as they barely glance at any car short of one that's been tubbed out(they take a 1sec glance under the hood of my friends 11 and 12 second cars on those nights..during regular events they go over everything pretty thoroughly though).

[TGPilot]

Here is a link to the 2003 rulebook which still holds precidence until this rule is changed. Any NHRA sanctioned TRACK (not event) must follow these rules or run the risk of having their NHRA certificate revoked. To some podunk track that will never have a money making NHRA event they may choose to look the other way. Bandimere on the other hand will pull your inspection immediately!

 

I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?

Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.

 

But I drive on the street. I don't want a big cut off switch hanging on the back.

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

 

http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

[94CutlassSLCoupe]

doesn't look bad...I just would feel more comfortable if the battery was in a sealed box that was only vented outside through a tube.

 

I'm still thinking of putting the battery on the passenger side of the car to be able to do a FWI...looks like if you use a '88 2.8 style radiator overflow and mount the computer to the strut tower there would be plenty of room.

[mfewtrail]

Here is a link to the 2003 rulebook which still holds precidence until this rule is changed. Any NHRA sanctioned TRACK (not event) must follow these rules or run the risk of having their NHRA certificate revoked. To some podunk track that will never have a money making NHRA event they may choose to look the other way. Bandimere on the other hand will pull your inspection immediately!

 

 

The info I stated was about an actual NHRA track, not an "event" for what it's worth. They hold the part of the NHRA nationals, etc., etc. here just like all the other major NHRA tracks.

 

http://www.atlantadragway.com

[blackbombshell95]

IIRC you can't race at the track now unless you get a special cut off switch on the rear of the car

[SigEpCutlass]

IIRC you can't race at the track now unless you get a special cut off switch on the rear of the car

 

welcome to two days ago

[OldSkoolGP]

I get hit with that shit all the time. But if you only visit the tracks once a year and keep going to different tracks, they just inform you of it and let you run for the day. Norwalk is awesome because they don't require it, and the track outside of Mishawaka doesn't ether.

 

 

But Adam, if I were you, I'd put that battery in a vented box, just for that added measure of safety. I got mine at a marine store.