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Posted

does anyone have pics of how and where exactly the intercooler is mounted in the tgp?

Posted

very good thanx :) I was told I wouldn't be able to use the stock intercooler on my beretta, looking at the pics it looks like i could make it work :)

Posted

Maybe. The TGP uses a smaller, yet thicker radiator to fit the intercooler next to it without changing the core support.

 

Jason

Posted

Had the intercooler been good on the Junkyard TGP I got the turbo system from, I would have might been able to install it with the TGP raidiator on the GTU. Ofcourse now I hit myself on the head everytime I think about that radiator--which is in high demand.. :shock: . I am planning on installing a ford probe intercooler or my brothers extra Tbird turbo coupe intercooler. Theres not enough room to play with.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

you can fit that puny tgp intercool in just about any car its all about piping not size. If you want a easier cooler then get a side mout dsm unit or if you got some $$$$ supra_1727_50624208

Posted

actually right now i'm thinking about staying away from the TGP intercooler and going for a saab 900 intercooler and mounting it up front, or maybe in the fender well, it won't get much air hitting it there, but it might easier squeezing pipeing that way, i'm not sure though....

Posted

that doesn't work WTF! I'll find it but look at this anyway and shed a tear of happiness.http://store5.yimg.com/I/supra_1734_244779

Posted

Two words...

 

DIAL UP

 

Can we watch the 390k pics on posts, a link would be nice.

Posted

Rebel check out the CRX CAI thread on bnet and you'll find the perfect place to run the intercooler pipe. Have it come back up through the bottom of the battery tray. You just have to relocate the battery to the trunk (easy) and move the vacuum canister (even easier). The CRX CAI thread has pics too

Posted

that would be easy for me cuz my battery tray is rusted so bad you can see your feet LOL! hopefully the battery doesn't fall out :cry:

Posted

I am not relocating my battery b/c i don't want to have to run an external kill switch as per NHRA/IHRA rules.

Posted

Yeah, not a good idea to relocate your battery as it is against NHRA/IHRA rules to relocate it without a kill switch. Plus, it puts more weight on the rear tires and that would help with weight tranfer to the rear of the car which is exactly what you don't want on FWD 8)

 

Then again, I've been to the track 3 times with my TGP last year and I haven't even had to open the hood yet. I get the same tech inspector everytime and he has a '89 GP SE and always tells me how much he likes TGPs :D

Posted
:confused: :confused: Dial up? :confused: :confused: What is this dial up you speak of?? j/k!! :lol: :lol:

 

Thanks about the pic 1tru'

 

Unfortunately for me dialup isn't a cheapness issue, its all thats available here in good ol' B'more.

Posted
Yeah, not a good idea to relocate your battery as it is against NHRA/IHRA rules to relocate it without a kill switch. Plus, it puts more weight on the rear tires and that would help with weight tranfer to the rear of the car which is exactly what you don't want on FWD 8)

 

Then again, I've been to the track 3 times with my TGP last year and I haven't even had to open the hood yet. I get the same tech inspector everytime and he has a '89 GP SE and always tells me how much he likes TGPs :D

 

Hmm, so why don't you need a kill switch if its in the stock location.

 

I mean, whats different if its not where the factory put it?

 

Chris

Posted

ask a NHRA/IHRA safety inspector, they'll probally go into great lengths about it, they seem to like to talk. heh.

Posted

Sorry don't have one handy! ;)

 

I was just thinking, BMW puts the battery in the trunk factory, but don't have and I would wager won't need a kill switch to comply. So.....?

Posted

Its probally just some stupid safety precaution having to do with fuel and the battery being on top of it or something like that. Someone probally did something really stupid a while back and thats why the rule is there, that'd be my guess.

 

Just like the SCCA rule that you can run with center caps on, cause they might fly off, even though mine are bolt ons.... lame-o :lol:

Posted

my dealings with a NHRA tech:

 

Brian,

in regards to your question. how you hock it up is up to you. what NHRA is concerned about is that you have a master shut off switch install at the rear of the car and clearly marked "off and on" and when the switch is turned to the off position the engine shuts off.

Thanks Rick

 

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----

From: Brian Srch [mailto:brian89gp@hotmail.com]

Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 9:01 AM

To: techdept@nhra.com

Subject: trunk mounted battery

 

 

 

I read the FAQ but it doesn't quite answer my question. What I am wondering

deals with the cut-off switch for a trunk mounted battery. Will this work:?

 

2 relays, one on the alternator wire, the other on the battery power wire

that are energized for the car to run or de-energized to turn off. A

latching circuit with a push button would control the relays and power would

have to be disconnected to reset it. The push button with a length of wire

would then be left hanging out of the trunk and mounted to the rear of the

car.

 

Is this method acceptable?

 

and

 

in regards to relocating the battery. it applies even when you take the battery from one side to the other side. anytime you relocate the battery, the stock wiring becomes altered and then we look at it as a safety issue.

Thanks Rick

-----Original Message-----

From: Brian [mailto:brian89gp@hotmail.com]

Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 4:52 PM

To: Rick Canning

Subject: Re: trunk mounted battery

 

 

I got another question. In the FAQ you say "Any car with a relocated

battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff". Does this apply

if the battery is moved from one side of the engine bay to another, or does

it only apply if it is moved further back then the firewall.

 

Brian

 

seems as if they only trust factory wiring...

Posted

an idea for a cutoff circuit, from the email above it would be acceptable:

 

put a ford starter solonoid in the battery wire right next to the battery, and a small current relay in the positive feed to the alternator (controls the digital regulator, unhook it and supposidly the alt stops pumping out current). Make up a small electrical circuit with a large toggle switch, flip it off and it turns off the current needed (very small amount) to keep the solonoid and relay energized, thereby cutting all power to the car.

 

This way you could get away with something you hang out of your trunk (think those food trays they hang on your car door at Sonic like resteraunts) with the switch. For normal street driving you short the 2 sides of the starter solonoid and the 2 sides of the alternator wire together (don't want to wear it out too quick, or have it suddenly turn off on the interstate) and unplug the switch. Go to the track, take the 2 jumper wires off and plug the switch in.

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