RareGMFan Posted October 30, 2005 Report Posted October 30, 2005 Welp, I finally barrowed a scanner off a guy I met who works for NAPA. I have it till next Sunday, so I can try this a few times. I tried to include anything I thought was vital, along with things I noted under different circumstances. Here is what I got from the initial readings. Engine off/Ignition in on Position (running 10 minutes prior to this): Throttle angle - 0% *Pressing pedal 1/4 - 1/2 way down pushes it to a high of 40° TPS - .56 vlt *Pressing pedal 1/4 - 1/2 way down pushes it to a high of 2.86 vlt Battery - 12.2 vlt Fuel Pump Sense - 0.0 vlt Injection Pulse - 9.7 mS *Pressing pedal 1/4 - 1/2 way down pushes it to 18 mS Integrator - 124 Spark Advance - 0.0° Desired A/F Mix - 13.3 O2 Sensor - 233 mvlt Block Learn - 128 Rich/Lean Flag - Lean Loop Status - Open EGR - Off Knock Retard - 0.0° Knock Sensor - 19 Idle Air Mtr Pos - 98 steps Barometric Press - 4.54 vlt MAP Sensor - 2.33 vlt Engine running/idling in park: Throttle angle - 0% TPS - .56 vlt Battery - 13.6 - 13.7 vlt Fuel Pump Sense - 13 vlt Injection Pulse - 1.1 mS *Climbs quickly to 3.0 mS, drops way down, then back to 1.1 when pedal lightly pressed Integrator - 127 *Will not climb over 128, & actually drops to 119 while pedal is still pressed Spark Advance - 9.8 - 14.7 *Heavy fluctuation at times Desired A/F Mix - 14.7 O2 Sensor - High 300's - low 700's *Responsive, heavy fluctuation Block Learn - 125 Rich/Lean Flag - Fluctuates at idle rapidly, rich when pedal is pressed Loop Status - Closed EGR - Off *Same with gas pressed Knock Retard - 13.6° - 14.0° Knock Sensor - Continously starts at 0, counts VERY quickly to 242-253, and starts all over again Catalytic Temp - 572.0° Idle Air Mtr Pos - 9 steps *Jumps quickly to 40+ when pedal is pressed, then back down again Barometric Press - 4.50 vlt MAP Sensor - .96 vlt *Jumps to ~1.17 with light pedal press, then to around .50, & back to .90 - .96 Driving around 20 MPH/occasional heavy throttle: Throttle angle - 80% max when pushed hard TPS - 3.33 vlt max when pushed hard Battery - 13.4 - 13.7 Fuel Pump Sense - 13 vlt *very small range of fluctuation Injection Pulse - 8.6 mS max when pushed Integrator - 128 max at WOT, will hit 130's when you first get back off the gas Spark Advance - Heavy fluctuation from 12.2° - 16.8° @ a stop, ~25 @ light throttle, full throttle lowers it to 17° Desired A/F Mix - 14.7 O2 Sensor - Still responsive, hitting the low 900's for a high Block Learn - Will not pass 128 Rich/Lean Flag - Fluctuates with no throttle, rich when getting on it Loop Status - Closed EGR - On for a split second when pushing it, & off again even while pedal is still depressed Knock Retard - 14.0° steady Knock Sensor - Still doing the same thing as in park, throttle makes no difference Catalytic Temp - 599.0° Idle Air Mtr Pos - 80 steps when pushed Barometric Press - 4.54 steady MAP Sensor - 2.68 vlt max Well, there you have it. First things that sticks out is the knock sensor, which appears to be going nuts, and may also be causing some of the other off readings. Then there's the throttle angle/TPS voltage being low (which is also one of the codes I have), and doesn't move when the car is started. I will try unplugging the TPS and seeing what kind of readings I get (should be default, correct?). I would have done it today, but the engine was just too damn hot. The others codes I had before I started were 33, MAP sensor voltage low, and 43, ESC, which is most likely due to the KS. You can see there is QUITE a bit of KR, which is probably causing shuttering feeling I get (almost like a fuel cut off) when I got on the throttle. I *think* that's the max timing it will cut. Is this because of the sensor itself, or is there still a possibility of internal motor problems? I'm guessing the sensor is fried, or there's a wiring issue since it's still getting a reading even with the engine off. Anything else stick out to anyone? If I should conduct any other test while I still have the scanner, do tell. If you need further clarification on anything, or more info, let me know. Any help would be super duper appreciated! Quote
skalor Posted October 31, 2005 Report Posted October 31, 2005 Is this a TGP?? If it is then the first thing I would start with the knock sensor, but then change the memcal if that doesn't fix that code. As far as the MAP code I would guess a crack in the vacuum line running to it. A whole new vacuum line set is ~$25 from GM so you may as well replace the whole thing if it's cracked. Quote
RareGMFan Posted October 31, 2005 Author Report Posted October 31, 2005 Yes, it's the TGP. Yeah, I was thinking about starting at the KS first, too. I already bought a new one a few months ago when I was suspecting that was the culprit. Then we'll go from there, see what it does. I keep forgetting to pick up the vacuum lines set from the dealer, too. You wouldn't happen to have the part number, would you? Quote
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