fender2082 Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Greetings. My '93 cutty decided it doesn't want to shift into gear until the trans gets nice and hot... prolly bad piston seals. Rather than get it rebuilt for $1200, i bought my buddy's '95 cutty for $1500. good deal, right? the only thing that i feel absolutely must be fixed before i garage the '93 is his turn signal stalk. it doesn't move, up or down. you can pull it forward to turn on the brights, no problem, and all the other controls on it work, but it physically won't move to turn on the turn signals. I saw the post here about how to replace the switch... i want to make sure there's not some easier answer, like 'hit it real hard' or 'just pull on it'. It's funny, because the signals in my '93 were going out too... you have to hold the lever slightly forward and up to get the signals to work on that one too... way to go GM :-p Anyway, am i looking at a new stalk for sure, and how much is it gonna run me for labor if i decide not to try to track down the more specialized tools and tear into it myself? Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 you won't need a new stalk. it sounds like the switch itself is bad. i've never heard of one seizing like that, but i can't think of any way the stalk would be to blame. the stalk itself is detachable. unplug the wires on the back of it and pull it out. then try to move the signal switch with a screwdriver or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Yeah I'd go and get a wheel puller and lock plate remover(which you'll need if you have an airbag) and replace both switches in your GP and the Cutlass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 thanks for the speedy replies... stockgp, i'm with ya, if the stalk and the switch are two separate things, it makes sense it's the switch. what kind of dough are we talkin for the tools (yes it has an airbag... for now)? I've had the entire dash apart about 20 times from the cluster down to the shifter, but i'm a little more nervous about the column just because it's, well, the steering. as long as i have half a brain and a chilton's manual, would you say this is something worth attempting myself? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 There's no easy fix. And ditto on the "it's not the lever" sentiment. You'd have to open up the column to lube up the siezed signal switch anyway (if there was a possibility of freeing it up) so you might as well replace the switch. The "specialized" tools can be bought at any parts store. If you're certain you won't be tearing into another column for a while, you can get by with the cheapest lock plate compressor they sell (I had a $10 one that lasted me for a good 2 years worth of tearing columns apart) and you could rent a "harmonic balancer" puller (the one that has spots for 3 bolts instead of 2) if you don't feel the need for buying a steering wheel puller. Either way, you'll still come out ahead versus having someone else replace the switch for you. To answer your question, I've talked to people who spent over 2 bills to have their signal switch replaced. "F" that! Forget the Chilton's manual. CLICK HERE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 it seems easy enough. i've never done it on the 94+columns. here is a write-up from discostudd (hope you don't mind) http://www.likeabigdog.com/column/94upsignal.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THe_DeTAiL3R Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Both tools I borrowed free from Canadian Tire. Either of those I'd just use once and return cause it's not like you're gonna use it much anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 oh sure. edit your post now that i already posted your write-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 oh sure. edit your post now that i already posted your write-up I had an "oh shit" moment right after I hit "submit" and didn't realize you 2 posted right after me ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 well I WOULD have posted before you, but it took me too damn long to find your write-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Looks like i know what i'll be doing this weekend :-p What's the estimated time for a steering column virgin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryptnix Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 you won't need a new stalk. it sounds like the switch itself is bad. AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 was that confusing? :-p I meant how long would you estimate it to take somebody who's never taken apart a steering column before to replace the switch? I'm all grins for having to tear apart my third car a week after i bought it :-p i checked out that photo how-to before i posted here... that's an awesome page. just looking for a little more reassurance, seeing as how if i mess this up i can't exactly drive it to the dealership. Thanks again all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 I think it took me over a half hour the first time I tore down a "saginaw" column (on an 80 Skylark - to replace the lock cylinder.) What hung me up (and hangs me up every time) is the little clip that holds the lock plate in place. If you're handy with a set of tools, then this should be no problem to accomplish. It shouldn't take you more than an hour, hour and a half to tear it down and put it back together. Besides, you have a step by step write-up to guide you along, something I didn't have the first time I dove into one of these columns . If you have any troubles whatsoever, drop me a line at: discostudd@likeabigdog.com and I'll be more than glad to offer my guidance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted October 27, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 Thanks a ton man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 27, 2005 Report Share Posted October 27, 2005 No problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender2082 Posted November 1, 2005 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Update for anyone that cares... DiscoStudd is indeed a stud... his tutorial is right on and the switch is replaced, at a grand total of about three hours due to a helluva time getting off the snap rings for the clock spring and the lock plate. If i were to make any suggestions to the next guy trying this it'd be to have new snap rings on hand, because the one on the lock plate is pretty f'ing hard to get off without destroying it and they're not easy to find on a Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 DiscoStudd is indeed a stud glad to hear yo got it fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted November 1, 2005 Report Share Posted November 1, 2005 Yeah, it sure is a bitch getting that lock plate ring off, but as long as you don't break it, you can bend it back into shape and reuse it. The snap ring holding the clockspring in place is very easy to remove if you have a set of snap-ring pliers. Maybe I'll mention in the write-up that you can pick up a pair of cheap snap-ring pliers at Sears for under 10 bucks... DiscoStudd is indeed a stud... Aah, the legend continues to grow Once again, glad my document helped you out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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