Jeff M Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Yea, something got funked but easy to do in that tight ass area , sounds like you are very close to being all set 8) yeaaaaa Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 i dont see how the nut to tighten the accumulator could be anywhere BUT the back of it, how else does it turn? like wheres the nut on that thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 it's on the other side, right next to where it threads in. IOW retarded. anyone have a pic of a Prior accumulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Umm, me confused, the GM accum has the nut on the front, where its easy to get to, the last Prior I bought (a while ago, still working good) had the nut on the back side near the threads, had to hack-saw an open end to get a good tool for putting it on, so not sure what other accums there are? Oh yea, think someone/you? was having a challenge tightening their accum, remember now that it has an o-ring for its seal, so no need to torque the accum real tight, good and snug, is good enough . Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 HA! i had to use a rubber mallett to straighten out that area of the heat shield but it slipped right in! thanks a million Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 HA! i had to use a rubber mallett to straighten out that area of the heat shield but it slipped right in! thanks a million Jeff Ahhh (big sigh) glad that did work out, I was hoping for you As for Prospeeder, the GM unit has the nut right in the center of the front of the accum body, where its very easy to get to and is a much better design for working on......don't you have a TGP with a GM accum to look at/or once had one that you maybe took off ....to know what these look like??? But for the price GM wants for theirs, go Prior for a lot less $$, and as its something you don't have to replace very often anyways, and helps save wearing out your pump motor relay contacts, and pump motor, and helps avoid all the metal shit that wears off with a "too-often" running pump motor from a dead accumulator, that gets into the brake fluid and prematurely wears out the ABS unit's internal seals and such . Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Well i know what the stock GM one looks like, I was thinking the front was where it threads and the back where the nut is, i cant see the nut being anywhere BUT there to be able to turn the acumulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Well i know what the stock GM one looks like, I was thinking the front was where it threads and the back where the nut is, i cant see the nut being anywhere BUT there to be able to turn the acumulator Ahh, I see the diffusion So here we go; all the accumulators have the threads on the back of the accum body (relatively speaking ) at least when looking at it while its in the car. And that is why you cannot really see the threads, and this Prior Nut very easy either, but that is where it screws into the cast housing back there that also has the ABS Pump Motor and Pressure Switch attached to it (the pressure switch cycles on the pump motor when the pressure drops too low). The GM accum has the nut on the front of the accum, right there where you can see it, and get to 8). So if you have a GM accum then go out and educate yourself by looking for those elusive threads , or get one of these like I have : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Factory-Manual-Delco-Moraine-Antilock-Brake-System_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6760QQitemZ8018680143QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Hope that helps, bye-now!!! Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Why not just JB Weld a nut onto the front of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Why not just JB Weld a nut onto the front of it? Hell yea prep the surface of the accum well enough and it might work, might, but don't think anyone here wants to test out the idea Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Use an oil filter strap to tighten it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Use an oil filter strap to tighten it. :worship: best idea yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 actually thought of that, but i didn't think i'd have room to swing the strap wrench. didn't try it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Yea having room in that area makes things real fun no matter what. They do make a chain strap versions that would really bite verses the cloth one, anyways. Just pulled the engine, tranny, transfer case out of my truck and then was able to really remembered just how easy it is to work on the GPs verses these damn trucks, yea that’s right, GP might at times be frustrating (DOHC are really up there though), but stupid S10/S15/Jimmy trucks are way beyond that, everything is super hard to get to, super tough to get off, and far from being designed at all for service work later I mean most everything you have to unhook is in-between the back of the block and the firewall; tons of connectors (that you don’t want to break off the hold-tabs getting rough) and bolts and ignition system and fuel lines, vacuum lines, and a whole shit load of wire looms all just have to fukin share this same area, arggggggg. Some owners have even gone so far as to cut an access panel in their firewall from the inside of their truck, its that insane!! I got lucky some (no not sex ), still a lot of work (no not sex ), but had a super smart guy (surely not sex ) tell me to unbolt the cab from the frame and jack the cab up about 2 inches and this space at that firewall shit-zone will open up more, better but man if you have a short fuse, there is going to be some broken parts. Last is some guys take off the wheel wells, even the fenders to try and get better access at things. So, with bloody knuckles that seldom ever happen with the GPs, wash my hands of that bitch for a while, used up at least a years worth of patients getting that project started, but 6 years waiting to start it and I should have saved up some along the way I just forgot :oops: , maybe I wanted to . Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Scince were on the topic of PM3 obviously, are these norotrious for just setting off an ABS light and then no ABS for no reason for awhile then just reset themselves and be just fine, but not store a code? The oil filter strap wrench sounds like a really good idea if theres room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff M Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Umm, not sure if turbosedan, who started this post, is all set now so we can enjoy obliterating it but back to him a little, the ABS Light on the dash, and the beeping and beeping from the DIC is the super features of the TSTE (not so super if it won’t shut up!!) that I am sure he knows about, but that I do still like, but when mine did this beeping from Cali till Vegas where I got sick of it and unplugged it till I could get home to fix it, found the only “fix†it needed when I did get home was the accumulator, yehaaaa!!!.. As for the intermittent shit you got, I would just get some wrenches and go at it, time to get your feet wet with working on cars, and like I said above, not nearly as bad to work on as other car and trucks :!: , and you got enough guys here on this board and the other that know the shit out of this car, you can bug the hell out of them to get all the troubleshooting you would need for it . Since I like my cars, and want them to like me back, found the best way to support this relationship is to start with the basics, these can, a lot of times fix problems along the way. So, not knowing what you have done, will just plug through my suggestions so that others can do them too if they have not already done them. Do the pedal pump to relieve pressure in the ABS unit, now replace the damn accumulator, then do the brake bleed procedures for this that I know I have at least posted before (search). Relieve the pressure again then pop the lid, exercise up and down that white round plastic thing in the front reservoir to loosen all the shit that has collected on it (its magnetic) from the pump cycling so much with a dead accumulator (that was a mouth full). Then suck all the fluid out of the reservoirs, use q-tips to get the last drops along with any shit still in the reservoirs. Now fill it with fresh brake fluid, then follow the brake bleed procedures that have also been discussed so many times before on here. Once you got the lines flushed then you have done yourself a great service and ensured a much better chance of not having problems later , the old pay me now or pay me more later . If you still got ABS lights just remember, the gauge cluster has its fussyness with this that you can overlook, or try out that link to send it out to get fixed, or try it yourself which I have (per Shawn Linn’s excellent web page). With yours I would still go look at the fuses for the ABS unit, having a repair manual, that has been shown and shown and talked about here over the years, will help you find their locations, pull out the fuses, make sure they don’t have corrosion or whatever, just need to look clean and good enough to put back in. Try a few connectors (insert this part back when doing the accumulator above and when the heat shield is off!!!) to make sure they are fully seated, hell take them off and look into them to make sure there is no corrosion or bent pins, or wires not attached to the pins (tug on them LIGHTLY to check). Basically stick your nose into everything you can, study it, learn it, shit will stand out and problems can be found if you just take your time, you don’t even have to know how everything works, if something looks odd, or broke (duh) or out of place, chances are it is. Last (sure there is more others can add in) is there being metal or dirt or some shit (boy I love shit ) at the ABS wheel sensor and the gear wheel that the sensor reads off of, can’t find it/never seen it……there is only one wire in that caliper area so follow it around to both ends to inspect things, and check for cuts or pinches in the wire, like I said, look for something that does not look right. Ok, nuff of this :yak: , got way too much work here to be taking such a long break here, yea it’s a fun “break†for me compared to the “work†I got to get caught up on . Jeff M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prospeeder Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Its a SOLID light, not blinking, its not the accumulator, the pump runs every 3 or so pedal presses, somtimes 4, depends, the abs itself STOPS functioning! I locked up all 4 wheel when it was on to test my therory to see if it turns my ABS off with the light, and it doesnt set a code, my auto teacher did a full diagnostic test of the Pump, accumulator pressure, and silenoid function and it all checked out OK, but never stored a code right now the light is off and my ABS works fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bossman429 Posted February 14, 2006 Report Share Posted February 14, 2006 I was joking, but soon afterwards I realized that that would probably be a pretty good idea. With the heat shield out of the way you could probably move a strap wrench. You should see how much room I have to work with that strap on an actual oil filter! Example Cavalier or any GM 2.2L enigne I've got my technique down for those though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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