jochen Posted October 20, 2005 Report Posted October 20, 2005 Hi, I only found one discussion about this topic, and that was about a Buick Regal which seems to have a different Switch (5 Pins). The switch in my GP died (partially) and now the Passenger and left rear window can only be driven down but not back up. Until I manage do get a new switch I really need to drive those back up. It's not exactly great to drive which binliners on the car to keep the rain out! So does anyone have a clue which pins I have to bridge to make the right front and left rear window go up? It is an 11 pin plug with the pins paired in groups of five and six. I made two pics to show the plug and the colour of the wires. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Jochen Quote
digitaloutsider Posted October 20, 2005 Report Posted October 20, 2005 Can it be moved up via that particular door's switch? If not, then it's the motor or regulator in the door, not your switch. Quote
jochen Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Posted October 20, 2005 Can it be moved up via that particular door's switch? If not, then it's the motor or regulator in the door, not your switch.No, I can't use the respective doors switch. The drivers switch is actually an electronics module and it seems that each doors switch gives the command back to the module. With unplugged module none of the switches work.I used to have the problem for a while with the left back window. Would only go up after some playing around. Also the passenger switch often didn't work until I pushed the drivers switch for the passenger window briefly. After that the passenger himself could use it as well. They thought out a fairly complicated system there, just to open windows... Quote
digitaloutsider Posted October 21, 2005 Report Posted October 21, 2005 That's strange. In my 90 LE, the right rear window switch didn't work on my control panel, but the one on the door worked fine.. Quote
jochen Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Posted October 21, 2005 That's strange. In my 90 LE, the right rear window switch didn't work on my control panel, but the one on the door worked fine.. Then I guess the microswitch inside is broken but the electronics are fine. Piece of metal broke of one of my switches inside causing it to shorten and making some smoke. To open it I had to unsolder the circuitboard from the box which was hellish and all the heat probably damaged it. The rear left caused problems but now it developed some permanent damage it seems. I saw a switch with the 'Grand Prix Pannel' and the door switch for $30 + $12 shipping & insurance. Think it is a good price or should I give the local j/y a try? List price for a new one is nearly $130 and but is sold for $75. Jochen Quote
jochen Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks for the table. I managed to get the windows up by bridging the respective window up output to GRND and the window down output to the powerfeed. Did that last night (what a relief) and just before I got a call from the j/y that my 'new' switch arrived, two days earlier than expected I'm quoting the table here in case the scan will be offline in the future so it can be found here in future: A: GRND B: RH Front down output C: LH Front up output D: RH Front up output E: LH Front down output F: Illumination Input G: RH rear down output H: LH rear down output J: RH rear up output K: LH rear up output L: Circuitbreaker power fee to switch Jochen Quote
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