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synthetic oil


Kevinsluminaeuro

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ok so im a little undecided im debating whether or not i want to switch to synthetic or not. ive heard the possibilites that are 5000 miles safe and it helps your engine stay a little cooler which i could use having 148k on my euro, but i just wanted to get some other people inputes on this one :shock:

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go for it, but get goot syn oil, like AMsOil, its teh best shit ever my car had 115k and i rolled it to Ams, and hasnt got any problems...just be sure to use the right filter (NOT FRAM!) and itll be great!

i can get Fleetguard brand filters that are actually a synthetic fiber filtering media for something like 3 bucks! check out your local cummins dealer, and tell them you want a cash deal for some major trucking company in your town.....itll be one of the best filter s cheap! its a LF782 fleetguard number

 

 

http://www.fleetguard.com/fleet/en/catalog/index.jsp?searchType=APPLU&step=6results

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what other filters are good for synthetic are there anything in a local parts store like autozone that would be good to use or will they not clean it good enough?

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yeah you can use any filters techniclly with most synthetics.

AMs is way better stuff then anything you can find in an auto store. The only thing id trust there is the mobil 1, not the syntec, if you can afford it, go Ams, its like 60 bucks, but you wont have to change the oil for 30k miles, just the filter every 6k miles...

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thats whats in my cutty too.....my other vehicles have the Ams...when i get rid of the mobile, itll go ams....all fluids will eventually go am

 

all your fluids are belong to ams!

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I just don't see the point spending the money on a 3.1...

 

Everyone thinks it's some magical fluid or something.

 

Maybe on a 3.4 it has benefits since it's higher reving, but on most regular engines I don't see the point.

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whats the problem with FRAM Filters?

 

cardboard end caps, poor QC, that kind of stuff... saving $2 on by buying a Fram filter cost me $100 in hydro valve adjusters in my bike... would have been WAAAY more had I paid someone to take the head apart... 2 tappets dead, beat themselves to death from getting no oil through the check-ball due to the pieces of cardboard in the check-ball assy...

 

Anyway, on Synthetic... If you do a good synthetic (I use either Amsoil or Mobil 1 (the real stuff, not the 5000 or 7500 mile stuff), I usually run conservitivaly at 10,000 miles on oil and 5,000 miles on a filter... Change oil and filter, 5k later, change just filter and top off oil, 5k later, change both again... I have an oil sample of me doing this that I'm about to send in for analysis, so we shal see what we see I guess... I immagine the oil had a TON of life left in it though...

 

Mike

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They're of a terrible design. The construction is shitty, the filter element itself (you know that thing saving your engine from an untimely death?) is some of the worst in the industry, the anti-drainback valve is notorious for falling apart/coming detached in the filter, and it's just an overall cheaply-constructed filter. If you want a good cheap filter, go to Wal-Mart and pick up their SuperTech filters. They're the same thing as a AC Delco PF-52, the STP filters, and numerous other private-label ones.

 

As far as Amsoil goes, unless you let about 10,000 miles pass between oil and filter changes, you're pissing your money away on a stock engine..

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ams came out with a new one about a year and a half ago its what i use its 0w-50! great shit.

My wifes kia is supposed to get like 30mpg Highway at 70 to 75 mpg

i put a true cold air on it, freeflow exhast, and the 0w-50 ams engine oil, and ams gear lube in the 5 speed...and it got 43 mpg average on the 350 mile trip from here to denver last time, and i didnt go less then 83 mph!

i believe Ams makes all the difference.

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ps i had about 50k miles on my last oil, and my Ams dealer thought i was crazy, so he wanted it tested. Yeah it was time to change it, but it wasnt in the bad zone yet! I changed the filter about 5 times in that 50k miles!

Oh, with a 'true synthetic' oil, do not add anything to it, like duralube, slick 50, or any of that stuff, unless it says specifically to do so. itll screw up your oil.

 

heres all youll ever need to know about oil filters!

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

 

Frams will actually void your warrranty on a new 'big three' vehicle! I dont know about imports....

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That oil filter study (http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html) is so outdated. It's 5 years old. While some of the information there might still apply, you really need to keep current as oil fiter brands change manufacturers and designs.

 

HERE is everything CURRENT you need to know about oil filters...and more:

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

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ok so im a little undecided im debating whether or not i want to switch to synthetic or not. ive heard the possibilites that are 5000 miles safe and it helps your engine stay a little cooler which i could use having 148k on my euro, but i just wanted to get some other people inputes on this one :shock:

 

A gentleman on http://www.bobistheoilguy.com typically runs 40,000-50,000km on 0W-30 synth with his 3400-engine equipped minivan. He uses Used Oil Analysis (where you take a sample of the oil and send it to a testing facility), and the oil still has plenty of life, even after that distance.

 

I personally am up to almost 15k miles since my most recent oil change, using Esso Extra XD-3 0W-30 full synth motor oil which I can buy here in Canada for around $4/L (which is around $3/quart in the USA).

 

The biggest gains with synth oil are of course, in extremely cold temperatures. ie: when I first got my car from my grandpa, it had 10W-30 Wal-Mart-installed Pennzoil in it, and it started like ass in the -40C winters, even with the block heater. With the 0W-30, I don't even plug it in, and it starts no problem. And of course, in extreme temperature conditions, though I reckon that the 3.1/3.4/3100/3400 do not get very hot to begin with, to actually see much overall benefit.

 

The real benefits of synth in our engines are the extended drain intervals. But 7500 miles with any off-the-shelf properly rated dino oil shouldn't be a problem in any of our engines (the turbo'ed ones excepted).

 

BTW, if you are in Canada, there is no reason in the world to buy Mobil-1 or even for Amsoil for a W-body. Esso XD-3 synth is a far better product, costs half as much, and even carries a rating for diesel engines, so you can standardize on one oil for your entire fleet of vehicles, petrol and diesel.

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ams came out with a new one about a year and a half ago its what i use its 0w-50! great shit.

My wifes kia is supposed to get like 30mpg Highway at 70 to 75 mpg

i put a true cold air on it, freeflow exhast, and the 0w-50 ams engine oil, and ams gear lube in the 5 speed...and it got 43 mpg average on the 350 mile trip from here to denver last time, and i didnt go less then 83 mph!

i believe Ams makes all the difference.

 

:werd: i got 39mpg once on a really long trip to florida in the cutlass. It definately makes a difference on the highway. 8)

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C-BAD, USmpg, or ImpMPG?

 

I don't know if you have been watching GM's commercials recently, but they've started really hammering away their MPG claims, but they quote them all in Imperial MPG, which gives them a 20% or so 'advantage' over USmpg.

 

All this, despite the fact that the only MPG really in use in the world is the USmpg, since the USA is pretty much the last country that still uses gallons. Canada uses litres, Great Britain uses litres, the EU uses litres, Mexico and Central America uses litres. So it is somewhat misleading, and induces people into believing they are buying more efficient vehicles than they truly are.

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US mpg, as per my DIC. I know the window stickers on the w-bodies have been advertising like 38mpg here in Canada, but I don't have a 3800.

 

5.x - 6L/100km highway from around 90km/h-120km/h. Over that and it starts to go down.

 

heres a converter for those who don't believe me..

 

http://www.eforecourt.com/l_100km_mpg_convert.htm

 

I still only get like 20-23 average city/highway though :thumbsdown:

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C-BAD, USmpg, or ImpMPG?

 

I don't know if you have been watching GM's commercials recently, but they've started really hammering away their MPG claims, but they quote them all in Imperial MPG, which gives them a 20% or so 'advantage' over USmpg.

 

All this, despite the fact that the only MPG really in use in the world is the USmpg, since the USA is pretty much the last country that still uses gallons. Canada uses litres, Great Britain uses litres, the EU uses litres, Mexico and Central America uses litres. So it is somewhat misleading, and induces people into believing they are buying more efficient vehicles than they truly are.

 

I tried to find this... I don't see it anywhere.. fine print, nothing...

 

Also, vehicles are generally set up to beat the "EPA cycle" This is why the Insight says on the window "70mph" but people rarely get over 50mpg with them. The EPA cycle is X number of stops per mile and this rate of acceloration and this much idling, etc. EPA highway is X number of hills per mile at X number of feet elevation change, etc. Anything can be set up to beat the cycle... Everybody does this, BTW, not just GM... As the saying goes "your mileage may vary"

 

Mike

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