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Posted

I am thinking I'll need to replace the upper and lower intake gasket on a '95 Cutlass Supreme 3.1. Can someone give me the steps involved? Is there a perticular gasket/manufactuer that I should avoid? Any other tips? Thanks.

Posted

yeah just be careful and keep in mind where all the vacuum lines go when you take it all apart. and most of all, have fun!

Posted

I see that those instructions are for the 3.4 DOHC. Would the procedure be the same for the 3100?

Posted

ive replaced my lower intake gasket. Just start at the top and work your way down, remember to torque the bolts to manufactures torque specs or you could overtighten and crack the gaskets or other fun stuff. Most of all, have fun!

Posted
I am thinking I'll need to replace the upper and lower intake gasket on a '95 Cutlass Supreme 3.1. Can someone give me the steps involved? Is there a perticular gasket/manufactuer that I should avoid? Any other tips? Thanks.

 

Yeah, the only thing I dont like about doing a 3x00 lower intake gasket change as opposed to a 3.1L is that it seems like there is a certain order you have to put stuff back on to get to everything. Other than that, its pretty simple. Go ahead and change your T-stat while you're at it. Its a bitch to get to by itself. If you havent done your spark plugs and wires in a while, now is a good time to do it.

Posted

Buy your gaskets and sealant from GM...its about $120 or so for everything.

 

-Intake gasket set....this includes upper and lower.

-Valve cover gaskets.

-Coolant nipple for thermostat housing.

-Water pump housing o-ring.

-Distributor drive o-ring.

-Lower intake manifold bolts....they have a special thread locker that works VERY well. Torque these bolts with the specs that come with the gaskets, thats a VERY important thing to do.

 

The metal pipe that runs from the thermostat housing accross the lower intake manifold sometimes leaks.....if you see a stain from coolant, it would be a good idea to replace the lower intake manifold. I know its more money, but you'd get the job done right.

 

Craftsman's 3/8" drive chrome swivel works very well for the corner bolts.....they are 10 mm.

 

Long pushrods go to the exhuast valve....don't mix these up.....only loosen the rocker enough to get the pushrod out.

Posted

I bet this is what happened. The nutcase that had the car before has a bad habit of tightening the $h*t out of everything. Had the plenum gaskets swashed so bad they were broke...and, he used enough silicone to drown a rhinocerous. I bet he put that lower intake gasket on, torqued it down like a crank bolt.

 

Went to GM and got the intake kit. I'm gonna take the plenum, lower intake, and valve covers to a mechanic buddy of mine and have him soak them in his parts washer.

 

I hope this does it!

Posted

Sdwhite,

Let me know how the whole process goes for you. I will be attempting to replace the gaskets in the next couple of weeks on my '95 CS also...

I have never taken the engine apart this far, so I am kind of hesitant of doing this. But from what everone says it seems to be straightfroward.

 

Please post back and let me know if you run into any trouble, or have any tips!

 

Brian

Posted

It's no cake walk. Removing the throttle body from the plenum is easy...two bolts. Taking off the plenum is easy...bunch of bolts...one hooked up to the alternator bracket was a bit of a pain. Careful not to drop anything down the intake holes! Well...that's all the farther I got.

 

Aparently there are two different kinds of lower intake gaskets. One for "ball and nut" rockers, and one for "roller rockers". People at GM didn't know which was which, even with the VIN, so I had to go back and pull the valve cover off.

 

Speaking of valve covers... you need a 3" extension to get the lower left bolt off. I lost mine and the deep well wasn't long enough and the 6" extension was too long (hit the wishbone mount). Caused me a bit of a headache.

 

The gasket is a wicked looking thing. All zig-zaggy...a hard plastic with silicone sealers. I wonder if I have to add anything to this to make it seal right or will it seal good all by itself? Anyone know?

 

That's all the farther I've got. Next, aparently, is the Fuel Rails. I've never messed this deep before so it'll be a new experience for both of us.

Posted

Taking off the fuel rails isn't all that hard either. Sounds like you have everything under control.

 

For a first timer, a total of about 7-8 hours of total work is normal for this.

Posted

Just be sure to put GMS (the grey tube you should of gotten from GM) on the ends of the oil gallery. Also put a dab in the lower corners on the heads were the intake gasket lays. Don't forget to put another dab were the pricks on the valve cover gaskets meet the head and lower intake.

 

Some WD-40 will help lose the injector o-rings from the lower intake....as well as help them slide back into place.

 

The new gaskets work pretty well.....just be sure to ue the new bolts and torque them to spec.

 

Swivel sockets are your friend! These are my workhorses....

sbdupm76tb.jpg

 

3/8" drive deep impact swivel sockets from Matco Tools. $250 for that set...yes, only 7 sockets. :) My 10, 13, 15, and 18 are nearly silver.....I've only had them for about 10 months. Those four sockets, an 8 mm, my air ratchet, hose clamp pilers, a screwdriver, and prybar.......and I can get your lower intake manifold off in just under an hour when I bust my ass.

 

Rocker vs stamper rockers on the 1995s seemed to be 50/50......there was a thread on Beretta.net a long time ago talking about this very subject. We never did track it down to a spefic build date, but it seemed like the older 1995s got the stamped and the newer 95s had roller.

Posted

HOLY CRAP! $250 for 7 sockets. Don't think I'll be getting those soon.

 

Yea...GM people didn't know. They asked for the VIN so I figgered it would be indicated there somehow...made trip to garage to get it. They still couldn't figure it out. Had to go back to the garage to pull a valve cover off to check. I was NOT happy. This one was MFG in 10/94. Not sure when production started...would this be considered early or late?

 

Yes... I didn't find out until a day ago to use new bolts @ 60degreev6.com

I hope the previous owner/dufus didn't break one of them off! Does anyone have the part numbers for those bolts?

Posted

I didn't get a tube of GMS from GM. Why should I have recieved it? What is it? Nobody told me aobout those neat little metal clips on the fuel injectors. I pulled my hair out for a while trying to figure out how to get them off. Lower intake off now. Guy before me was an idiot.

 

He got the intake gasket for a roller rocker engine. Instead of getting the right gasket, he took a hack saw to it and "modified" it. I suppose it works about the same but still!

 

I have MANY questions, now that I'm here.

 

Do you put ANY kind of extra sealer on the lower intake gasket? How about the valve covers?

 

How do you seal from between the Lower Intake to the Block, in that 3-4" section at the bottom?

 

How many Ft/Lbs do you torque down the rocker arm bolts?

 

What kind of sealer do you put on the plenum gaskets?

 

Now that I'm @$$ deep in motor, how do you test the fuel injectors? is there any way to clean them now that they're off the motor?

 

Should I replace the o-rings? What's the PN?

 

Should I replace all the fuel injector-to-fuel rail clips?I broke some. Part number for these?

 

Any help? thanks!

Posted

Wow...I figgered someone would have replied by now. Lots of questions....somebody must know the answer.

Posted

You do not need extra sealer, just make sure the surfaces are clean, 400 grade sand paper can help you.

 

You can find the torque spec from the repair manual at the auto parts, sorry mine is a 91 so it could be diferent from 95.

 

Plenum gasket do not need sealer, that is the gasket for.

 

No need to test fuel injector. Do not fix what is no broken.

 

The o-rings, you can buy new ones at the auto parts or if they look good I will reused them.

 

and anything you broke try to replace it with junk yard parts or the parts and service dept from your local dealer can help you to find the PN, they have pictures with all the PN in the computer database and can have the part in stock.

 

I hope somebody here in this board will help you with more details.

Posted

Thanks! Stuck fuel injector might be part of my problem, though. Running super rough, has no power, kills at idle, kills when you put it in gear. I figgered I could re-use the o-rings but...when you're ass deep in motor you don't want to go back and fix what you should have done right the first time.

 

The last idiot used silicone on EVERYTHING... it was squeezed into the ports, into the plenum, all over the valve cover gaskets...

 

Thanks for your help.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Does anyone have the link to the 60V6 article on the first page? I visited the 60V6 page , but it seems like all of the articles they had are gone!

 

I probably have to attempt the LIM gasket this weekend, I noticed the milky white sludge on the oil cap and PCV valve yesterday. If anyone has a copy of the procedure w/ any pics (CBAD??) Please let me know, or PM me!

 

Thanks in advance!

Posted
Does anyone have the link to the 60V6 article on the first page? I visited the 60V6 page , but it seems like all of the articles they had are gone!

 

I probably have to attempt the LIM gasket this weekend, I noticed the milky white sludge on the oil cap and PCV valve yesterday. If anyone has a copy of the procedure w/ any pics (CBAD??) Please let me know, or PM me!

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Basically everything you need to know is in the Haynes manual.

 

I used brake cleaner to get the shit off the parts, then paint thinner to clean the brake cleaner off (I didn't know if it's oil based or whatever). Also used some 1500grit around the coolant passages cause they were corroded looking.

 

Heres my thread with some pics...

http://wbodysource.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=530

 

 

I really took my time doing this job (couple hours after work, then all of Friday that I had off). So you might want to see about finding an alternate mode of transportation for a little while just in case...

Posted

Reused the lower intake bolts. Clean them really good and apply thread lock to them.

 

I'd go for the Fel-pro set, considering the GM ones I bought looked exactly like the old ones that were in there :roll:

 

I used high temp blue RTV on the block between the heads. Hopefully it will last (didn't get a tube with my intake gaskets :shrug:)

 

Since you car is a 95 is could have the older 3100 lower intake gasket, or the newer 96+ design (same but has "pushrod guides"). I bought both and returned the set I didn't use. You'll know which one you need when you tear it apart.

 

If you have msn I'm on quite a bit davestanic@hotmail.com

Posted

Thanks!

I am sure I will run into some minor problems, but hopefully nothing I ccan't fix.

 

I will start early on Saturday morning, so i might new a couple of hints if I get stuck.

 

Thanks for your insight!

 

Brian

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