starter or just solenoid?

[briandors]

Seems it's something new breaking every month. Glad I love this car.

 

3.1 V6 Cutlass Supreme convertible 1995, 143k miles.

 

I'll get in turn the key to ON, all the lights come on correctly. Turn to START and nothing. No crank, no clicking. Let go of key, back to ON, turn key again and it starts right up, no hesitation.

 

I have tried my other ign key, so I assume this isn't Security related? Also, I never have to wiggle or move the shifter to get it to fire, so I assume it wouldn't be neutral safety switch related?

 

I just turn the key again, and sometimes it starts on the 2nd try, sometimes 3rd, sometimes 5th... so far hasn't left me stranded but I'm beginning to worry.

 

Is this the starter ($80-100 at autozone) or just the solenoid ($30)??

Any other testing I need to do first?

 

Thanks

Brian

[jeremy]

check the battery and the Aux. terminals to make sure all the connections there are tight.

[briandors]

I double checked all the connections, everything's tight.

[digitaloutsider]

It sounds like the VATS system to me.. Try cleaning off your keys and see if that helps any.

[paulo57509]

I recall a TSB regaring this problem. I can't recall (no pun intended) if it covers your make/model/year though. IIRC, it covered service parts such as new part numbers for the solenoid, spring, etc.

 

TSB 338113 Nov. '93 - Starter - Motor may click but no crank.

 

Regardless, I would suspect the solenoid is your problem. Depending on how many miles are on your starter, it might be best to just replace the whole thing.

 

My '92 Lumina did this and replacing the starter with a rebuilt Delco unit fixed it. I went with a Delco because I figured it would have the new parts specified in the TSB.

 

One would think that your car being a '95 the problem should have already beed addressed.

 

EDIT: Here's an old-timers trick you might try (if the solenoids are like the ones made in the '60's - '70's):

 

The post that the battery cable is attached to....remove the cable and there should be another nut on the stud. Loosen the nut enough so that you can push in the stud a bit and rotate the stud 90 degrees...pull on the stud and you'll feel it drop into place. Tighten the nut and replace the battery cable.

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

check the battery and the Aux. terminals to make sure all the connections there are tight.

 

 

 

I think it's a common issue with our year(s) of car...

[skiiirt]

Im going to say Park Neutral Safety Switch

[briandors]

When this happens, I never have to touch, jiggle, or otherwise mess with the shifter. How could it then be the neutral safety switch?

 

I also did double check the connections. They are plenty tight.

 

I've narrowed it down to VATS or the starter. I will check the VATS wiring for the correct resistance tonight. If that seems good, time for a starter.

 

Thanks.

[skiiirt]

When the switch goes it just goes.

 

Mine went without warning (except the occasional no start)

It never started after jiggling, or messing with the gearbox. I do remember before it got to the point of absolutely no starts I would always turn the key once, nothing, turn the key back to off, and turn it on and it would start.

 

Symptoms I had- drive car around town, go park at store, come out no start, no click notta. Tried many times over the course of an hour to no avail. 20 hours later I come back to the car and it fires right up first try.

 

If you dont have even a click then i doubt your starter is even getting any power, so if it's not clicking then why waste your time. Like if your starter was on the fritz then you would get atleast an attempted turn over right?

vats is always a possibility, I dont have it so I don't know the problems