GP1138 Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 I don't know if anyone else is confused on this, but I didn't know when I started. The rear calipers DO have to be turned in to compress. I was under the impression that they were just pushed in, so I had to go buy a caliper piston spin tool. FWIW, that was the easiest rear brake job evar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 2, 2005 Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted October 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2005 All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go ... Well, I was going to buy the pliers, but I found that 1.) The piston tool was only $2 more. 2.) It saved me about five minutes of fighting with the clamp and related BS. 3.) The savings of work was worth the extra $2. But yeah, that was my original idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalgorn Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 If I end up having to do rear brakes, I'll just rent the tool from AutoZone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Is it bad that I never have to use a tool to do rear brakes on my car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 i just used a needle nose pliers on mine too. although i do have the tool now. i kinda doubt AutoZone will rent the tool since it costs less than $10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlassdude96 Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 that tool makes makes things easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 What does this tool look like?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SigEpCutlass Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go ... That's what my dad told me to do when I couldn't get them back in and it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStudd Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go ... Well, I was going to buy the pliers, but I found that 1.) The piston tool was only $2 more. 2.) It saved me about five minutes of fighting with the clamp and related BS. 3.) The savings of work was worth the extra $2. But yeah, that was my original idea. Aah, I see. But when you get down to "brass tacks," you'd get way more "mileage" out of a pair of needle-nose pliers than you'll ever get out of that piston tool ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 3, 2005 Report Share Posted October 3, 2005 Yup, only gen 2 W calipers don't turn in because they have the separate drum for the park brake. The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron350 Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 The cube brake tool like K-D 3163 does not fit the notches in the caliper pistons properly. It got the job done but this is not the best tool for W- body caliper pistons. http://www.kd-tools.com/3163.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted October 4, 2005 Report Share Posted October 4, 2005 Yup, only gen 2 W calipers don't turn in because they have the separate drum for the park brake. The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though. yup...and the pads are easier to change, and they are less likely to sieze on the sliders...i could go on and on BTW: they use the same rear brake pads as Gen II's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though. - 94 for the Lumina lol Poor Luminas are left out of the upgrades in 94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 the Lumina was left out on quite a few things. it was almost like the red-headed step child of the 1st GEN W-bodies really....almost more so then the Regal. the Grand Prix and the Cutlass were practically spoiled. i think it's kind of wierd though that alot of them got ABS when most other W-bodies didn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassSLCoupe Posted October 5, 2005 Report Share Posted October 5, 2005 the Lumina was left out on quite a few things. it was almost like the red-headed step child of the 1st GEN W-bodies really....almost more so then the Regal. the Grand Prix and the Cutlass were practically spoiled. i think it's kind of wierd though that alot of them got ABS when most other W-bodies didn't. The lumina did get the Duke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdwhite Posted October 13, 2005 Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 There's a writeup on the w-body page on how to swap out '94 and up calipers back to a 88-93 vehicle. Well worth it, if you don't mind losing your emergency brake. I had the rears done on my 93 shortly after I bought it, and then again after about 15,000 mi (done under warranty from GM). When they seized up AGAIN IN 3 YEARS I said to hell with this! I did the swap, got bigger rear rotors, junkyard calipers for $20ea and lifetime pads and have had NO problems since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 26, 2005 Report Share Posted November 26, 2005 this is an example of the same tool as the autozone loaner http://store.autotoolexpress.com/reardisbrakc.html it compreses and rotates. REMEMBER the tabs on the piston head on the 94+ must be perpendicular to the bolt on the caliper when finished or the brakes may misfunction! (this from someone who has taken some 40+ junk ones off old cars and knows which calipers are ruined) I've done the brake conversion several times and Lucky you might find a car with a fresh brake job like I have every time:) Don't use antisieze, use synthetic caliper grease available at advanced auto -ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 29, 2005 Report Share Posted November 29, 2005 This is a how too for rear brakes: It includes caliper replacement AND FOOT PEDAL REPLACEMENT! http://www.tpsgarage.com/TGP/brakes/rear_brake_upgrade.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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