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Posted

I don't know if anyone else is confused on this, but I didn't know when I started. The rear calipers DO have to be turned in to compress. I was under the impression that they were just pushed in, so I had to go buy a caliper piston spin tool.

 

FWIW, that was the easiest rear brake job evar.

Posted

All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go :wink: ...

Posted
All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go :wink: ...

 

Well, I was going to buy the pliers, but I found that

 

1.) The piston tool was only $2 more.

2.) It saved me about five minutes of fighting with the clamp and related BS.

3.) The savings of work was worth the extra $2.

 

But yeah, that was my original idea. :lol:

Guest TurboSedan
Posted

i just used a needle nose pliers on mine too. although i do have the tool now. i kinda doubt AutoZone will rent the tool since it costs less than $10.

Posted
All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go :wink: ...

 

That's what my dad told me to do when I couldn't get them back in and it worked.

Posted
All you really need to do is put a bit of pressure on the piston with a C-clamp (to break it free,) remove the clamp, then spin it with a needle-nose pliers and you're good to go :wink: ...

 

Well, I was going to buy the pliers, but I found that

 

1.) The piston tool was only $2 more.

2.) It saved me about five minutes of fighting with the clamp and related BS.

3.) The savings of work was worth the extra $2.

 

But yeah, that was my original idea. :lol:

Aah, I see. But when you get down to "brass tacks," you'd get way more "mileage" out of a pair of needle-nose pliers than you'll ever get out of that piston tool :wink: ...
Posted

Yup, only gen 2 W calipers don't turn in because they have the separate drum for the park brake. The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though.

Posted
Yup, only gen 2 W calipers don't turn in because they have the separate drum for the park brake. The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though.

 

yup...and the pads are easier to change, and they are less likely to sieze on the sliders...i could go on and on

 

BTW: they use the same rear brake pads as Gen II's

Posted

The 94-96 turn in a million times easier than the 88-93 though.

 

- 94 for the Lumina ;) lol Poor Luminas are left out of the upgrades in 94 :(

Guest TurboSedan
Posted

the Lumina was left out on quite a few things. it was almost like the red-headed step child of the 1st GEN W-bodies really....almost more so then the Regal. the Grand Prix and the Cutlass were practically spoiled. i think it's kind of wierd though that alot of them got ABS when most other W-bodies didn't.

Posted
the Lumina was left out on quite a few things. it was almost like the red-headed step child of the 1st GEN W-bodies really....almost more so then the Regal. the Grand Prix and the Cutlass were practically spoiled. i think it's kind of wierd though that alot of them got ABS when most other W-bodies didn't.

 

:werd:

 

The lumina did get the Duke :lol:

Posted

There's a writeup on the w-body page on how to swap out '94 and up calipers back to a 88-93 vehicle. Well worth it, if you don't mind losing your emergency brake. I had the rears done on my 93 shortly after I bought it, and then again after about 15,000 mi (done under warranty from GM). When they seized up AGAIN IN 3 YEARS I said to hell with this! I did the swap, got bigger rear rotors, junkyard calipers for $20ea and lifetime pads and have had NO problems since.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

this is an example of the same tool as the autozone loaner

http://store.autotoolexpress.com/reardisbrakc.html it compreses and rotates.

 

REMEMBER the tabs on the piston head on the 94+ must be perpendicular to the bolt on the caliper when finished or the brakes may misfunction! (this from someone who has taken some 40+ junk ones off old cars and knows which calipers are ruined)

I've done the brake conversion several times and Lucky you might find a car with a fresh brake job like I have every time:)

Don't use antisieze, use synthetic caliper grease available at advanced auto

-ken

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