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Oil Issues


f_399

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Scenario:

1997 3100 using Amsoil/Royal Purle Synthetic 10w30 using K&N filter since 50,000 Miles

 

Currently: 146,000 miles

 

Issue:

The car has been pretty reliable but now it has a minor oil leak(oil seems clean an no signs of coolant mixture)

 

I want to move backk to regular oil and maybe a thicker grade to compensate for the leak

 

What brand and oil grade would you recommend?

 

Also being an old car I dont know if I want to continue on investing in expensive oil

 

I will still keep using K&N filter no matter what oil I use.

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wheres it leaking from? Ams is desighned to be on there for quite a while, and i actually had my filter start leaking. if its leaking, its not the oils fault. even thick oil is going to leak. Fix it, cause ams is worth having in her....

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I would try a cheaper semi-synthetic, or one of the high mileage oils. Personally, I just use whatever is cheap and change it and filter every 3k. Oil changes don't take long to do. My engine had about the same mileage as yours and no leaks/burning of oil. On my old 2.8 I tried Castrol Syntec once but realized it was retarded spending so much on an old engine w/ 170+miles so I changed back to GTX/whatever and had no issues.

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Semi Synthetic is just a ploy to get you to spend more money on oil...no benifits.

 

My old '88 2.8 Cutlass had no problem running Pennzoil 5w30 even at 200k...it leaked maybe half a quart in 3000 miles...ran damn good too.

 

I run 5w30 Pennzoil in my current cutlass and the engine still looks like new inside

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AMSOIL 10W40 w/ AMSOIL OIL FLITERs ONLY! but thats a opinion. Good Luck! Only be bought thru special dealers. Locate one online.

 

I agree that you should go with a heavier weight oil than you have now. Stick with the Amsoil. I definately agree that you do see better results when you use their filters too. Keep it Amsoil :thumbsup:

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You can try that stop leak, however it didn't stop shit in my dad's car from leaking...so I usually just say fix whats leaking because that other stuff is just a bandaid that sometimes doesn't work

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Semi Synthetic is just a ploy to get you to spend more money on oil...no benifits.

 

 

valvolines duriblend is mixed at high heat to round all the molicules for better flow. worked for them for a while and the shit actually does outflow standard dyno oil.

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my car is due for an oil change and i have been searching the net regarding what oil to use....

 

from what i read i should definitely stick with full synthetic

 

now... should i keep using amsoil/royal purple or go back to the "cheaper" mobil 1?

 

also was using 10w30 but the car is suppose to use 5w30.... which grade should i use?

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my car is due for an oil change and i have been searching the net regarding what oil to use....

 

from what i read i should definitely stick with full synthetic

 

now... should i keep using amsoil/royal purple or go back to the "cheaper" mobil 1?

 

also was using 10w30 but the car is suppose to use 5w30.... which grade should i use?

 

From what I heard, Mobil 1 is about the best synthetic you can get outside of RP/Amsoil.

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If you're Canadian, and have an Esso/Imperial Oil distributor nearby, Esso XD-3 Extra 0W30 is a full group IV synthetic, generally shows lower wear than Amsoil and Mobil-1, and costs about $4/L, far less than Amsoil, M1, or RP.

 

I am so glad I said goodbye to the 3k mile oil change, and I am now half-way (2-years, ~12k miles) into a 25k mile oil change and my XD-3 0W-30 is still performing well, with no loss of fuel economy whatsoever, and no visible sludge or varnishing when I put a flashlight down into the filler hole.

 

As a bonus, the 0W-30 viscosity makes cold starts very easy compared to 10W30 oils.

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