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Getting ANNOYED!


gmrulz4u

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A few weeks ago I replaced my 89 Cutlass' Drivers outside door handle with a New aftermarket one. At first it wouldn't work at all because the adjustments needed to push the lever down far enough were completely different than the original. Even as it stands right now, I have to use my hand/fingers in a specific way to get it to open properly. But whatever, at least it works!

 

So yesterday I go to install the Passenger side handle with a New aftermarket one(presumably from the same company/manufacturer). I get it all ready to go and then realize that the two 14mm nuts won't screw onto the New handle because the New handle's built-in bolts have absolutely NO threading!!!?? I was like, what the hell!!?? The black plastic nuts just kept turning and turning. I have no idea if this was just a defect or I somehow got a wrong handle!? I mean it looked exactly like the one I took out. The sticker on the package said "88-91 Cutlass Supreme International".

 

Before I took it all off and put the factory one back on I thought I would at least just try it and see if I was going to have to do a whole bunch of re-adjustments like I did with the Drivers door, and, sure enough, I closed the door, tried to open it with the New handle, and NOPE!

 

So what the hell is going on here?? For those of you that have had to replace these handles with aftermarket ones(and I'm sure there's a lot!), did you have to go through a lot of re-adjustmenting of the levers and linkages etc.? I just don't get it...

 

Should I just give up and buy GM ones? Or does it really matter?

 

THANKS!:)

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I've had pretty good luck with used ones from teh junkyard. On my 88 GP I changed the driver's side twice I think. I haven't changed any on my 95 cause I'm very careful with them (just wait till winter though.. lol). I've got a backup set though from the old car :thumbsup:

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I've never had any trouble like that replacing them neither. Just out with the old in with the new and voila, done.

 

I always open the door by just unlatching it with the handle and pulling it completely open with another part of the door. Haven't broken another one since, even in the winter.

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I always open the door by just unlatching it with the handle and pulling it completely open with another part of the door. Haven't broken another one since, even in the winter.

 

:werd: I've been doing it that way forever, and have never broken one EVER... except on my TGP, when I broke one trying to straighten it back because the previous owner had pulled on it so much the top part of the handle was sticking out and drove me nuts.

 

I usually just buy the GM replacements - costs more, but perfect fit and they don't break again the way I use them.

 

I think though, that those nuts are supposed to be able to cut threads into the studs. I seem to remember it's normal for those studs not to be threaded.

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you need to adjust that attaching "button" on the linkage (door side, it doesn't come with the handle) spin it on the threads, basically the way you described it, you need to put that button "higher" up on the linkage rod. wish i had a pic :)

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Because of manufacturing tolerances or lack of them (cheap parts made off-shore), you might very well need to adjust the actuator rods. I've had to do this with the cheap door handle replacements I've gotten off of ebay....no worries.

 

The studs that the 14mm nuts fasten to are indeed not threaded. The nuts will cut their own threads when you screw them onto the studs. When you tighten them up, don't reef on them.

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What exactly is it that goes bad in those handles? My Z34 driver's side was hard to open too, especially in the winter, but it never broke. Does something bend or just flat out break?

 

Handle bends because it can't repeatedly support the weight of the door. Eventually it will break. That's why I use the handle to pull the door open only a couple inches, then grab the pillar to pull it the rest of the way open.

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