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UNdoing the automatic locking mechanism


ismellrealbad

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OK over the past couple days there has been lots of bitching (mostly by me :oops: ) about the w-body's with the mehcanism that locks the doors when the car is put in gear. who is going to be the higly rewarded GENIOUS that can show me how to undo this in a 96 GP???? Of course the reward is my great appreciation and thanks :wink:

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Well, I told you in the other post to disconnect the little inline connector coming off the chime module.

 

The chime module is to the right side of the steering column, sort of under the cluster. I have no idea the best way to get to it, but maybe you can reach the connector. Listen for the "ding ding ding" it's a little white box that you can barely see if you pull the cluster out. You might be able to reach it better from underneath, I don't know. It almost looked to me like the car was built around it.

 

Unplug it and auto locks goes bye-bye.

If you just want to keep yourself from getting locked out, just adjust your neutral start switch so that the car doesn't relock in Park.

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sorry...i must have overlooked your post. my bad. anyways, im having a hard time getting the cluster out because the connector is behind all this stuff and its such a tight fit that i cant pull the cluster out unless the connector isnt in. and i cant reach the connector because.....lol because i just cant. i cant get to the clip and pull at the same time. i will keep trying at it though. how exactly would i adjust the neutral start switch? is that the second cable attached to the shifter?

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Ugh. That's one reason I HATE working on 94-96's. The one I have, and the ones at the junkyard, they all had such short wire harnesses that it was almost impossible to get to anything. I'd much rather work on an 88-93!

 

Anyway, the neutral start switch is actually underhood on the top of the tranny. It's kind of hard to get to, it's easiest to see if you pull the airbox. Follow the shifter linkage to a lever, and under the lever is the switch. You'll see the harness coming out of it. The switch has a normal sized hole on one side, and an elongated hole on the other so that it can be adjusted by loosening the bolts, rotating it and then tightening the bolts back down. I adjusted mine by trial & error, but you could always unplug the connector and use a multimeter to fine tune the adjustment that way (trial & error just seemed less hassle). You need to get it to where:

 

- Doors will not relock automatically in Park and Neutral

- Trunk will release in both Park and Neutral

- Starter still cranks in both Park and Neutral

- Starter does NOT crank in any drive gear

 

It's kind of tricky because sometimes when you get one thing (like the trunk) working like it's supposed to, the starter won't crank in Neutral, or the locks still relock in Park. So you have to get it just right.

 

Good luck!

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alright...thanks again for all the help from here. its great. im gunna save that to the comp too and i will do it on a warmer day cuz i HATE playing around with stuff in the car when its cold. now i see what your saying about all the wiring being short and cheap. it pisses me off. also i did not know the trunk wont unlock in anything but park and neutral, thats kinda like a useless safety thing imo, like how the back windows on a lot of 4 doors only go down halfway

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The trunk only popping in park/neutral has never been a problem. I mean, how often do you need to pop the trunk while in motion? :)

 

The rear window thing on 4drs isn't a safety feature, it's a drawback to the design. The rear window can't go down because the rear wheel is in the way. Many (most) 4dr cars have the rear window split with a stationary section so the rear window can go down a little further than if it wasn't split. Some cars they split the window in a spot that the rear window can go completely down. Anyone who says it's a "safety feature" is probably a car dealer. It's actually more of a design compromise.

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never thought about that, but then i lookat it and ur right...

 

anyway as for the chime module i found it, but it was nowhere near the location u described. it was under the glovebox on the passenger side. i ripped it out and no more auto door locks!!!! i also lost the annoying chime too. i hate the chime, i only like the 4 dings after u start the car but who cares this is a great compromise. also u loose the warning if ur headlights are on. oh well. id rather have a dead batter than be locked out, and with this stupid feature ill be locked out many more times than i will have a dead battery :?

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Weird! That location sounds like the old location on 88-93.

I know 94-95 has it under the instrument cluster, but I'm surprised they moved it back in 96.

 

Well, you can keep the chime by just unplugging that connector hanging off the wire harness that comes out of the module.

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If you still have it apart, would you snap a pic of it and where it's located?

I'm curious if they went completely back to the old electrical center or not.

I practically tore up my hand trying to get the chime module out of a '94. :(

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IF you pulll this cord, you loose all chimes?

 

also, your car locks you out? How? IS it a stick shift or something? While its something I worry about ( doors locking when i have car on, and out of car), it doenst happen for me.

 

Jon

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If you pull the cord, you only lose 1 chime, the one that warns you that you left your turn signal on too long. You can cut (or extract the terminal from the connector housing) just the wire that controls locking, but I forget which color wire it was... either LT-BLU or DK-BLU I think (just guessing).

 

Yours doesn't lock you out probably because your park/neutral switch is in proper alignment.

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I hope you guys did not go through more than you had to!!!

Reading the owners manual on my `94 cutlas I have found a way to didable the auto locks.

I have at least 3 fuses that work the locks, one of then is in the COMPONENT CENTER not the FUSE BOX. It is labeled LOCK CONTROL in the manual, and removing it disables the auto locking feature without disabling the electric locks

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Well, you can keep the chime by just unplugging that connector hanging off the wire harness that comes out of the module.

 

If you get the time, can you point that out in the picture? I may look into this tommorw. Debs will be soo happy

 

Jon

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