R-134a Retrofit/Recharge Problems

[digitaloutsider]

So I got tired of sweating my ass off all day, and caved and bought an R134a retrofit/recharge kit at Wally World. I unpacked it, watched the intructional video (very nice) and went out to look at my Cutlass. Strangely enough, it already had an R134a valve on it. Okay.. So I turn on the A/C full blast and hook up the guage thing. It reads low, but after I spray in the stuff, the gauge reads insanely high. WTF. Okay.. so I empty the current refridgerant. Compressor now does not run. Okay. I hook the can up again. Gauge reads way lower than before. I pull the trigger and let some in. Gauge reads way to the high side again. WTF WTF WTF. Either this kit sucks, or I'm some sort of an idiot.

 

It's the InterDynamics R134-a Retrofit/Recharge kit. They sell it at Wal-mart. It comes with three cans, a gauge/hose, assorted valves, and an instructional booklet with CD.

[GnatGoSplat]

From empty, you need the full 3 cans in it if they're those 12oz cans.

The compressor will run when there's enough pressure. You need to be putting this into the low pressure side.

[Kalgorn]

Not to be off topic but let's say my AC blows very warm and the compressor is turning on... would you say I'm out of r-12? And let's say I am, recommend picking up one of the r134-a recharge kits? Think I could do it myself? I'd rather not go somewhere and have to spend money for them to switch it over.

[digitaloutsider]

Well anyone who went with the "Shaun's an idiot" theory was dead on. I didn't push the valve on enough . The Cutlass now has ice cold air. I guess I didn't empty it all the way. 2 cans did it (12oz).

 

Shawn, the valve only fits onto the low pressure connector. It doesn't even remotely go on the high side.

 

Kalgorn, yes, it's possible that your'e simply low on refridgerant. Man, just buy the kit. Mine cost me $33. It's INCREDIBLY easy.. when you pay attention, unlike me! lol. The 284 gives you a little more room, so I was happy about that. 4T60 guys, it's a tight squeeze, but you still should be able to fit the click-on, click-off valve on there. If you still have some R-12 in your car, I reccommend getting it evacuated professionally. R-12 depleats the o-zone layer and is toxic. Most places will do it for free (they can resell R12). I emptied mine out since it was already R-134a. Don't empty it on the high side like me. It's WAY too much pressure and it doesn't totally evacuate the system properly.

 

Anyhow, I'm happy!

[THe_DeTAiL3R]

I recommend those kits as well. I had my A/C working for a whole half hour! (It all leaked out). But it was nice while it lasted!

[Stevo]

Whoa... your saying you bought an r-12 to r-134a kit and did it like changing a tire???? :shock:

[99RegalGS]

LOL, too bad I didn't know it was converted to R134a already otherwise I would have charged up it a lonnnngg time ago. Glad it had cold A/C now.

[TeeJay3800]

Those InterDynamics kits are really slick. Especially with the gauge so you know exactly how much you have to add. I've always had to take the airbox off, but even with the 4T60 there is plenty of room.

[digitaloutsider]

FUCK. I go to show my friend my nice new A/C, and smoke starts POURING from under the hood. WHAT THE FUCK?! I turned off the A/C and haven't touched it since. MOTHERFUCKER.

[3pt1lumina]

Yeah my buddy and I recharged my dad's R-12 system in his 77 Monte with a retrofit kit in about 10 minutes..... works ice cold and it is sweet..

 

 

the smoke from under the hood... i heard that what happens is if you make an A/C system function after awhile of being inoperable, the radiators crack from stress or something? ( a mechanic told me this, although i dont really trust him) anyhow, it is at least a theory someone that knows what they are talking about can possibly prove me wrong.. please. lol

[digitaloutsider]

Okay. Investigated a bit. The line running to the condensor.. burning hot. Scorching. The low side line is barely cool at all. I started the Montana and checked it out. The low side is nice and cold, and the high side is warm (not hot). I'm at a loss. I guess I'm going to get the system properly evacuated and start again.

[supreme_style21]

Was it evacuated to begin with? Or was it some trailer-parked job? Those things don't get along too well, as I'm sure you know.

[GnatGoSplat]

Did that kit have any "stop leak" in it? If so, your cooling system may have just suffered black death.

[digitaloutsider]

I'll go check the can in a few. What could the aformentioned stop leak do?

[digitaloutsider]

Just read up on black death. Fan-fucking-tastic. New condensor on the way..

[TeeJay3800]

What is this infamous black death? I'm pretty sure I used the same kit as Shaun, and my A/C system has been great for years. It does have some "seal conditioners", but its never caused any problems for me.

 

This is the kit I used.....with no problems:

[GnatGoSplat]

I was just thinking, it might not be black death at all.

If your kit had any stop leak in it, the chances are higher, but it MIGHT have just blown a shaft seal. Is the compressor greasy looking?

When my shaft seal went, it made a stinky smell. I'm not sure about smoke since the hood was shut at the time.

What kind of gauge came with that kit? If it's a pressure gauge, you might see if you lost all your refrigerant. If so, it might have just blown a leak. Shaft seals are the most common.

[digitaloutsider]

Yep. That's the kit I used. The compressor doesn't really look bad. I don't smell anything bad. Let me go see what the pressure gauge reads.

[digitaloutsider]

Okay. Good pressure on that gauge registers from 25-45 psi. I had filled it to just about 45 PSI. Now it's down to around 35. I've got a leak somewhere I suppose.

[GnatGoSplat]

Yeah, sounds like a leak. With the hot engine temps, you should also have greater pressure than with a cold engine. I've had fairly good luck finding leaks with those UV dye kits that you inject into the AC system.

Is the compressor coming on at all? If not, that would explain why those lines are hot. They'll get as hot as underhood temps.

[digitaloutsider]

The compressor actually comes on, and cools the air.. but man that pipe gets HOT.

[paulo57509]

Here's a site that was a big help when I repaired my Lumina AC system after it had died the Black death.

 

http://www.autoacforum.com/

 

Actually, I had to finish the repair because the shop I took it to had no clue as to how to go about completing the repair. I essentially had to start from scratch and undo every wrong thing the shop did.

 

Just illustrated to me that if you want it done right, you have to do it yourself. Was expensive, but I have a nice set of AC tools now.

 

Just reading thru the FAQ and some of the forum topics was an education in itself. Good stuff and great members on that forum.

 

FWIW, the Lumina is still running R-12!

[GnatGoSplat]

Yep, those guys on that forum are good. They helped me figure out what was wrong with the AC on the Cutlass and it was a really easy fix (compressor needed a new control valve).

[mikeymo]

i did the same thing...the a/c works now but the air blows from the dash until the revs go over 3000 after which the air blows from the lower vents...back under 3000 the dash vents come back on again....whats going on with that?? ive heard someone mention something about vacuum lines causing it but i have no idea where to start looking?? :?: :?:

[GnatGoSplat]

Look at the vacuum line that goes from the "T" near the driver side strut tower and goes around the battery to the vacuum ball in front of the wheel.