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Is this too good to be true? Crate Vin V engine?


Adam S.

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I think the only reason the TGP's have a V is so the insurance companys can get more mony out of us. When I first insrued mine my agent went hum vin V that's a muscle car. I said muscle care no way it's only 205 HP. He said it was $95 more than a standard GP. Sure was a lot cheaper than the Corvette I had just sold. :D

 

Jud

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Actually it is the TGP block, but a short block, meaning the block, pistons, crank and plate for the automatic converter. I could get a vin T long block. This is specifically for the TGP.

 

Decisions decisions.

 

Adam S.

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They are different (what's different?...read on this forum at the top of the page :roll: ), so there will be a different price as well, not as bad as one of those stupid aluminum blocks for $4k+ :shock: :lol:

 

Jeff M

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Guest TurboSedan

not to step on any toes, but i have doubts there is anything special about the TGP block and crank. is there any real way to differenciate a VIN 'V' block or crank from a VIN 'T' block and crank? i think it's just hype.

 

EDIT

 

Engine Oil Cooler as some Monte Z34s had, maybe others, unique water tap to regulate water to turbo, and fittings to plumb it in.

 

Oil tap port fitting added to block/metal braided hose for feed line to turbo.

 

my VIN 'T' block already had the provisions for the fitting that regulates water to the turbo. it also has the port for turbo oil supply, which of course made turbocharging my LH0 so much easier (i just removed the plugs and added the fittings). i know you are talking about fittings here and not the block itself, but it certainly raises (my) doubts that the VIN 'V' block is anything special. why else would a VIN 'T' block have these ports already cast in?

 

what if i were to weigh a VIN 'T' and VIN 'V' block? i have both.

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not to step on any toes, but i have doubts there is anything special about the TGP block and crank. is there any real way to differenciate a VIN 'V' block or crank from a VIN 'T' block and crank? i think it's just hype.

 

Stepping back (not on any toes :lol: ) I am looking at this statement:

 

Actually it is the TGP block, but a short block, meaning the block, pistons, crank and plate for the automatic converter. I could get a vin T long block. This is specifically for the TGP.

 

So if he is referring to it as a "Short Block" then that makes it different than a Short Block for a NA 3.1L, which as he states has the TGP Specific Crank. Dealer lists the TGP crank as a different number (and much higher price) than the NA 3.1L. And a few months back when I was on the phone to a past McLaren Employee who was part of the team that was assigned duties to do the TGP he stated the stock 3.1L cranks broke under their durability testing, so the TGP crank was different/specific to this engine. So radical differences, no, but like the crank and mellings M95 High Volume oil pump, the short block will have its differences :wink:

 

Back a few years ago I found that the "T" was only part of the identification of the block, the casting number told more of a story and there are a couple a different "versions" of that as well, I don't remember all the specifics but there was enough to show that the "T" was not the all inclusive indicator of what you had to compare with others. While I am remembering :lol: , the TGP Engine sitting on display at McLaren is an older "T" version that had the oil pressure tap up at the top near the oil pump drive/distributor delete cap.

 

Jeff M

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Here is why I think it's a TGP vin V block. The crate engine for the 3.1 T (including everything except for wiring harness , sensors) is 1900 US. This short block that has only pistons, crank and block is 2100US. If it was a Vin T than why not just buy the complete engine for cheaper.

 

The other thing is I asked specifically for a flywheel equiped block. (for balancing) This part number only comes in the pressure plate one to be hooked up to an automatic tranny.

 

This latter one is also why I'm not sure, because I have to send out my crank, pistons, flywheel / clutch to get dynamically balanced, might as well send out my curent engine for rebuild.

 

I guess if the engine were blown it would be an easier decision.

 

Adam S.

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The bungs are on my old 2.8. They are to flush the engine..originally. On the oil tap...also on my old 2.8. Just where the old pressure sensor used to be if you didn't have a oil filter adapter with the bung..or oil cooler with it. The crank is harden and rods. Starts as cast..then hardedned. Blocks start with more nicle content. You'd know a good block with more nicle content by looking at the bore. Cheap cast blocks tend to weare fast by the top grove...as good blocks tend to stay like new on the bores. I've rebuilt mannnny 350s that weare faster then dental floss :lol: . But i've only had to rering my turbo mazda 2.2 once and had more abuse and neglact (no oil changes) to it than any 350 I come accros.

 

After the TGP..im sure GM got rid of some spare parts though EURO :wink: cars.

If you can't afford the TGP long block (heads, block and rotating mass)..then a low mile 3100 would do as they are constructed to wistand stress better than old blocks. I can't say the same for the crank and rods though..need to TEST those to 250hp/300lbs tq on a 3400lbs mass. :shock: .

 

You need those TGP heads though..or at least any 3.1 head. Old 2.8 heads cannot take the abuse. They tend to crack..especially at the exhaust port. I've seen this on my head and on another boosted 2.8. SAME identical crack..same spot.

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Guest TurboSedan

i have a TGP longblock on an engine stand in my garage :) the heads from that engine have been rebuilt and are on my LH0 right now.

 

i don't mean to be arguementative but i still don't think it's anything special. i would really need to see some clear cut proof to believe it.

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I'd take my crank out of my TGP..but its under 4hrs of work. I also don't have a 89-94 3.1 crank or a 3100 crank. Mind you...crank hardening is more for bearing wear than actual sturcture integraty from twisting/craking. On rods..I'm 1/2 way here and there. GM would be stupid if they didn't take mesurements for higher HP rangegs. On adverisment..even on the Cassets that came with the car...they state the crank was harden. Is the TGP block special...yes..if you lived in 89-91. Later 3.1s have webbing simmilar to the 3100. I know my 94 3.1 does. But I cannot say the same for the nicle content as mine had low miles from a wreked GP. Its held so far. If your really skeptic..you need to take the TGP short block and a regular production 3.1 block and have them check for nicle and surface hardening at a reputable race shop. THough I thougt Jeffs finding would be suffieciant. Guess we need a second opinio..or Fact in this case :lol: . But what would it mean to everyone of its a fact?

 

On my old 90 taurus...when I read about the SHO..Ford found out their little 3liter Vulcan creation coun't wistand the 200hp..so it was up to Yamaha to build a tottaly new unit. New block, crank, rods, heads ..everthing..only thing they share is 3liters in displacent.

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Hmm..can he scratch the TGP crank and regular crank and see if the TGP crank scratches the same deph or any. 60 rockwell is tuff over 30.

 

All 60d rods were forged. So..im still :? about TGP rods.

 

Maybe the TGP block isn't special..but the crank is. "The principle of hardening is to induce residual

compressive stresses in the material, which increase the critical load at which cracks will occur". - http://users.specdata.com/home/emxjc/index.html

 

maybe not too much on bearing wear..but it does help alot. SBC cranks suck on bearing surface.

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