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Alternator 45 min 3.4 change out Questions


Afubar

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I have a 94 Cutlass Supreme Convertible, it now has a bad alternator (again, last changed Jan 2004). Have been reading and checking out other threads. Have the Chilton's manual and would rather do the 45 min change from this forum.. Here's the rub - I'm a female and I don't understand some of what he said, like 'cradle' where is it, and what is it, the picts don't really give me a real clear view.

 

Also, any and all advice is greatly appreciated. I've done brakes, points and plugs (when cars still had them), oil pumps, front struts(on this car, with your guys help, thanks), and other things not limited to cars (like built a huge deck on my house, installed a garden bath with necessary plumbing, built a koi pond, replace breakers) so you guys can see while I may not know 'names' of things, I'm not afraid of trying anything. I just need a little advice.

 

Thanks again

Kaye

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The cradle is actually the front sub-frame assembly that the engine rests on. If you look underneath when it's jacked up you will see one bolt with big washer under the passenger area and one bolt with big washer that is up front around the bumper area. When you get it jacked up and take a look at it, you'll figure it out.

 

On mine, the rear bolt was not too bad, but the front was frozen on, they can be a real pain in the ass.

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thanks DOHCRagtopguy. That makes sense. I may have an advantage, I live where we get little to no snow and no salt on the roads. Hopefully the bolts won't be too bad.

 

PS - I LOVE your tagline.

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Hey, it's not all that hard at all. Hell, I could type it out right here, or even walk a person through it on the phone while I was watching a TV show.

 

Basically, undo the neg. battery terminal. Loosen the lug nuts, jack up the car, take off the wheel. Put one jack stand where you jacked up the car at. Take the jack, and put it underneath the tubular looking thing that the engine sits on. Try to find a place that will even out the weight between the front and back. Next, crawl under the front bumper, and look for a bolt with a rubber grommet, that it connected the to the tubular subframe. Undo that one. By now, you should have the jack up high enough that when you drop both bolts, the cradle won't come crashing down. Undo the rear one. Undo the tie-rod nut, and know the tie-rod out, and swing it to the side. Lower the subfram slowly. Take off the drive belt, undo the alt. bolts, and have fun wiggling out the alt. Seriously, actually taking out the alt., then putting the new one in place takes about the longest amount of time out of all of the steps, in my opinion. I can do the rest in 15 minutes max, but the damn alt is just a PITA to get out, then get back in. If you need to, remove the CV Joint shield (you'll know what I'm talking about once you see it). Then, just put her all back together, and your done.

 

BTW, I'll probably be doing it again here within the next month or so. I'm going to try to break my own record, again.

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Thanks Slick, I need all the info I can get.

 

Approximately how much do you lower the jack that's holding the cradle? I don't want to go so far as to cause other problems, ie. steering. Since I have a 94 cutlass, I probably have the CV joint shield, yes or no? And is it difficult to remove?

 

Anyway, I really appreciate all the advice.

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I think I let mine down all the way tell you the truth, just do it slowly.

 

As for the CV shield, i think it's held on by like 3 10mm bolts, or something of that effect. Nothing you couldn't have off in like 10 minutes or less. Most likely you will have that shield there.

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when i did it on the GTP the shield came out in 2 minutes if that. Just make sure you have access to a few long extentions for your ratchet. Good luck with it, beofre all that was written up i did it two years agoa nd it took me 9 hours :oops: . (Snowy day with no heater, on my back on concrete, that sounds like a good enough excuse, true none the less) Again good luck. Jay

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