Whats better for bass

[rshissler]

I dont know which is better for hard hittin bass. Are 10in better or are 12in subs better? I'm gonna put them into a sealed box. I want a pair of subs that i can get alot of bass out of from my 1000 watt amp i have.

[jdcutty]

Definitely go for 12's, how much are you looking to spend?

[jeremy]

12s are typically deeper sounding, but 10s will be more a more accurate sub....that being said, I would get the 12s

[rshissler]

I'm gonna get 2 12" or 10" Alpine Type-E subs

[stockgp]

if you really just want it to be loud, get 15s.

[Garrett Powered]

I was going to go with three alpine 10s in the wheelwell enclosure just to get a lot of good sound. I had the templates cut out and everything, then took a 180 and went with 1 speaker and ran it mono into a dual voice coil monster.

 

The theory is simple, and it goes the same with turbos . Less-is-more.

[stockgp]

The theory is simple, and it goes the same with turbos . Less-is-more.

 

maybe in this case, but not always.

[Garrett Powered]

Yea, I guess if you had 2 cs-130-D alternators. because a 1000 watt amp can use all the juice that this unit can throw at it. Anything more would just drain the battery quicker. I could only imagine how fast the battery would get zapped with 2 w-7 13.5 " subs. get what I am saying?

[Garrett Powered]

The human body only has 1 heart.

[stockgp]

like i said, in this case. if he's getting serious, he can always use a multi-battery, multi-amp sytem with a few memphis mojo or lvs 15s. but yeah, with the charging system in these cars i would still recommend a 15 over a 12 or 10

[Garrett Powered]

Well I don't know about that either. Not trying to pick on you at all bud, just givin what I know

 

If you want a huge box in your car, go with a 15" sub. they are really hard to install on anything smaller than a bus.

 

I would probably go with a single 12 ( or even better a 13.5" JL W-7 if you need LOW bass) and go with a long throw woofer. the airspace in the wheel well is almost enough to work for a 15" but I used a JL W-7 because it does not need as much airspace in a sealed enclosure as some 15s do.

 

Some 15s need 6 or 7 cu. ft. where as the W-7 needs 3-4 .

[stockgp]

true. but there was no mention of trunkspace restrictions. he would always build a wide, thin box that sits at the back of the trunk against the rear seat. anyways, i'm still not going to recommend 10s or 12s if he wants loud

[Puggsley456]

like i said, in this case. if he's getting serious, he can always use a multi-battery, multi-amp sytem with a few memphis mojo or lvs 15s. but yeah, with the charging system in these cars i would still recommend a 15 over a 12 or 10

 

^ x2

 

 

If you want a huge box in your car, go with a 15" sub. they are really hard to install on anything smaller than a bus.

Some 15s need 6 or 7 cu. ft. where as the W-7 needs 3-4 .

Ahhh I beg to differ on that one.

I know of at least a couple excellent quality 15" subwoofers that will work superbly in 1.6 cubic feet.

[stockgp]

i imagine the spare tire well in an alero can't be too much bigger than a w. that said, i helped build an alero with 4 15s in the tire well.

[Garrett Powered]

When you say loud do you mean lots of noise thats not music? Like as in a vented box? Because thats easy, you need not as much airspace. then I would recommend an 18" sub , like the one I had in my old '78 Blazer. That thing put out some cool sound. It was actually a sealed enclosure that was WAY too small. It was about big enough for a 15 or 2 12s. But low!

 

If you get a 15 or an 18 and DO get enough airspace though. Get ready to shit your pants when you hear how MUCH sound you hear!

[stockgp]

he said he wants a lot of bass. i assume he wants to feel, not hear it. that's the way it should be anyways.

[Garrett Powered]

Hear, sense, feel,smell whateva!

[rshissler]

um ok. I want some nice feeling bass i dont care if i can hear it just feel it. My speakers in the car are for the hearing part. I'm goin with 2 12" no bigger. Its for my Sunfire not my broken ass W (no offense but it is broken).

[Regalblue]

You say "I want a pair of subs that i can get alot of bass out of from my 1000 watt amp i have."

 

First you wanna stop looking at the peak/max rating on the amp you have.

Pay attention to the RMS rating.

How do I know your looking at the peak rating?

If I had a 1000 watt RMS amp, I certainly wouldn't be looking into buying some Type E's.

IMO- The peak rating doesn't mean shit, Since you'll only get it for a split second.

Even at that, Most of the manufact's that rate their amps at the peak rating. Push the fucker untill it dies & Say well it put out 1000 watts just before it fried. So,It's a 1000W amp.

 

You gotta link to the amp you have? So, We can help out using the amps specs?

 

IMO- That'd be best for you. So, You won't be just slapping shit all together & You can get the most out of what you have.

[rshissler]

Its a Nitro - Berlin Moblie Westex amp Specs are here some where... here we go

 

My friend's brother is gonna tune it and tweek it for me when i get everything in and stuff. He used to do SPL comps and all kinda of audio stuff hes really good at it.

 

This is the subs http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0S1ZFsHZmG4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=500SWE1242

[Garrett Powered]

um ok. I want some nice feeling bass i dont care if i can hear it just feel it. My speakers in the car are for the hearing part. I'm goin with 2 12" no bigger. Its for my Sunfire not my broken ass W (no offense but it is broken).

 

Go for a ported enclosure then. If you are not worried about ALL frequencies being heard at the settings on your custom eq setting. Or accurate sound reproduction and just want to FEEL a vibration.

[m0sh_man]

Just so you guys know, sealed boxes are smaller than vented boxes, most people think that if the box is vented that it can be smaller, WRONG! if the box is vented it needs to be larger than its sealed counterpart,

 

its all about soundwaves, and the vented boxes work better if they are larger than their sealed counterparts, My 12" subs require 1 cubic foot sealed, or 1.5 cubic food vented per sub, and thats the minimum recommendations.

 

when i first got into car audio i figured if the box was vented it could be smaller cause its letting more air move, boy did i learn quick that, that would make a shitty sounding system.

 

makes you wonder why the truck boxes you see at walmart for like 29.99 with a 10" woofer in each box is vented doesnt it? seal up that port and listen to how much better it sounds.

 

 

matthew

[m0sh_man]

Its a Nitro - Berlin Moblie Westex amp Specs are here some where... here we go

 

My friend's brother is gonna tune it and tweek it for me when i get everything in and stuff. He used to do SPL comps and all kinda of audio stuff hes really good at it.

 

This is the subs http://www.crutchfield.com/S-0S1ZFsHZmG4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=500SWE1242

 

 

well basically you have a 300 watt amp then (assuming yours is the bigger of the two listed, very rarly any more does a company actually put what there amp really makes.

 

id say if your amp does 300x1 RMS, then it probably peaks out at 500 watts @ 2ohms.

 

they may have had to drop it down to 1/4 ohm for 10 seconds to get the 1000 watts outta it.

 

also, another way to look at it is looking at your fuse rating, if you have a 30 amp fuse, you take 30 amps, times the 14 volts your system may be putting out, and you get 420 watts, if you can blow that 30 amp fuse by cranking up the radio, then you know your amp can put out atleast 420 watts max power.

 

my 200 watt sony mobile ES amp has two 30 amp fuses and if i put it down to 1 ohm (what its stable to) and run my 12" subs, and crank it up, after a while, it will blow the two fuses, which doesnt surprise me seeing as how some of those 200 watt amps were tested to put out over 800 watts peak.

 

you can use the amps x volts = wattage but its not 100% accurate

 

matthew