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Brake Help? What causes this!!??


gmrulz4u

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Last year around this time I had all 4 rotors replaced with new ones, as well as the rear calipers with new ones, and all pads. So the only thing I didn't change were the front calipers. I know there's something wrong. The most notable thing is the 'pulsating' stops. The car, an 89 Supreme, shakes back and forth when stopping, like the front brakes are grabbing and letting go, on and off, on and off etc...it doesn't stop steadily and in one fluid motion. It seems to get worse the longer you drive it.

 

Anyone know what's goin on?

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The rear calipers not working well is what usually causes the front rotors to warp. The front brakes normally do 80% of the braking and the rear does 20%. Often, the rear does much less than its 20% share so the front has to do 90-100%. This makes them heat up to the point that 1) Front pads wear quickly, and 2) Front rotors warp.

 

The only long-lasting solution I found was to upgrade my rear calipers and rotors to the 94+ design. However, my wife's '88 hasn't warped its front rotors and I'm not sure why, but it already needs new rear calipers for unrelated reasons (piston boots deteriorated) and they are only 2yrs old.

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I have had that happen to me when my ex-wife took her car to the tire shop and it shook like hell when you slowed from 30MPH. Come to find out they not only tightened the wheels uneven...but actually stretched to near breaking three of the wheel studs.

 

Just recently I got new Good/Years on my TGP and made them hand torque the lugs! They didn't like the request, but they sure did like the idea of me spending $680 at their shop...they hand torqued the lugs... 8)

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I have had that happen to me when my ex-wife took her car to the tire shop and it shook like hell when you slowed from 30MPH. Come to find out they not only tightened the wheels uneven...but actually stretched to near breaking three of the wheel studs.

 

Just recently I got new Good/Years on my TGP and made them hand torque the lugs! They didn't like the request, but they sure did like the idea of me spending $680 at their shop...they hand torqued the lugs... 8)

 

that is interesting

wonder if this stretching of studs is a common occurence?

 

Monty

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It's got to be at least as common as morons with impact wrenches. When I bought this car it had one completely stripped stud and some mismatched lugnuts. By mismatched I mean I had a couple of generic nuts that are shorter than factory and one flat one instead of the proper conical kind.

 

The vast majority of people out there give no thought whatsoever to things like lug nut torque and tire inflation. To them, so long as the wheels are on and don't look flat, it's all good...

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Might want to ensure that the rear calipers are working correctly then after that, loosen the lugs up on the front and torque them down to between 90-110 Ft Lbs. Then again there are parts you should go cheap on, then there are parts which you should splurge and buy good stuff. never buy rotors that cost 15 bucks and expect them to last long. As a matter of fact, Autozone sells rotors for my Lumina that can't be turned. Once they are worn and you try to turn them, they are too thin to meet the factory specs.

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The vast majority of people out there give no thought whatsoever to things like lug nut torque and tire inflation. To them, so long as the wheels are on and don't look flat, it's all good...

 

you are telling me

 

i catch alot of grief cuz since i got my car mid may i have inflated and deflated my tires so many times. each time i take note of how it effects handling. i know the optimum also improves gas mileage, but i am willing to give a little to get an edgier ride. once the money is there for wheels and tires then i am sure i will be more @nal retentive about it.

 

Monty

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