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Torque Wrench ?


bogart219

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Guest TurboSedan
I totally agree with "sweet dreams" It's all common sense. Don't go all Heman and shit on a 1/4" bolt, but hey if you do it's a great learning opportunity to learn how to use easyouts. For those guys that work in a shop, ya on straight time you can afford to torque everything, but on flate rate if your going to torque everything you better get use to eating KD.

 

i would hate to bring my car to a shop you work at. torquing things to spec hardly takes any more time.

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I torque everything to spec that a torque wrench will fit onto. Been doing that ever since I started working on cars 13yrs ago and haven't ever had to redo anything because it leaked or whatever.

 

I can't say the same for some of my friends and family who are guestimators.

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take it to a shop I work at?? you must have your head up your ass or never spent a long day in a shop watchin mechanics work cuz I've never seen a mechanic who torques much anything other than as I mentioned heads,internals, trannies and diffs. you think mechanics pull out the torque wrench everytime they do exhaust,ball joints, tie rods, brakes, etc etc thats crazy man. maybe they pull it out when your standing there to satisfy your question (arent your gonna torque that?) but truth be told parts that arent part of a rotating assembly and are tapped into iron can be done by hand with experience. do you torque your drain plug? lol no because you KNOW what tight is just by the feeling you get in your hand. repetition is the mother of skill man

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What's a torque wrench? way over rated. only thing you need a torque wrench for is maybe a head and lower intake thats it.

 

Get a service manual for your vehicle. Pretty much every bolt has a torque rating.

 

Thats a good thing unless your the type that thinks it's ok to have a bolt or 2 missing or sheared on some things.

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What's a torque wrench? way over rated. only thing you need a torque wrench for is maybe a head and lower intake thats it.

 

Get a service manual for your vehicle. Pretty much every bolt has a torque rating.

 

Thats a good thing unless your the type that thinks it's ok to have a bolt or 2 missing or sheared on some things.

 

The Haynes manuals (if you can find one for your GM's) usually are pretty good with the torque ratings. I've found they're usually correct, especially when it comes to the torque ratings under the hood.

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I torque everything to spec that a torque wrench will fit onto. Been doing that ever since I started working on cars 13yrs ago and haven't ever had to redo anything because it leaked or whatever.

 

I can't say the same for some of my friends and family who are guestimators.

 

Are you tring to say that if you had your dash apart in your car, you would torque every screw and bolt that you took out? I think not!

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Where'd you pull that out of? The service manual doesn't even recommend to replace head bolts (but I did it anyway).

 

The sevice manual does say to replace head bolts, does "torque to yeild"

ring any bells?

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I think he means within reason. Obviously bolts that hold the dash trim on aren't as important as the ones that hold on the water pump or heads. Only dipshits don't pay attention to torque specifications. And I don't want to hear "OH, WELL I'M A MECHANIC AND THIS IS HOW WE DO IT." I don't give a shit about the 10 hour class it took to get that nice little "ASE" badge on your sleeve. It doesn't mean shit to me, and I'll guarantee I still know more about my car than you ever will, no matter what classes you take. Torque wrenches and specifications are there for a reason. Ignoring them is ignorant and really just fucking stupid.

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I think he means within reason. Obviously bolts that hold the dash trim on aren't as important as the ones that hold on the water pump or heads. Only dipshits don't pay attention to torque specifications. And I don't want to hear "OH, WELL I'M A MECHANIC AND THIS IS HOW WE DO IT." I don't give a shit about the 10 hour class it took to get that nice little "ASE" badge on your sleeve. It doesn't mean shit to me, and I'll guarantee I still know more about my car than you ever will, no matter what classes you take. Torque wrenches and specifications are there for a reason. Ignoring them is ignorant and really just fucking stupid.

 

Sorry man I guess i'm ignorant and really fucking stupid. Your right mechanics are stupid compared to a back-yard mechanic that think they know everything about everthing. Its amazing how all this knowledge about cars just comes to them. Wow!

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Is this why any time I've taken my car to a shop, it comes back with more problems than what it came out with? Or, could this be why my friend's GTP has been in the shop 4 consecutive times for the steering rack bearing recall that didn't give us any problems UNTIL he took it in to FIX the recall? Perhaps it could also be why I've been told by numerous GM "mechanics" that my 3400's valve knock/tap is normal and that I shouldn't worry about it, when it's obviously a major issue considering it's at 76,000 miles and burns oil worse than my 190k mile 3.1 did? Maybe it's also why my Grand Prix came back from the shop once and the tensoner pulley bolt came out, leaving my mom stranded on the side of the interstate because, and get this, they didn't torque the bolt enough. WHAT A CONCEPT!

 

I gotta say, you guys are WAY smarter than I'll ever be, and I really think the next time I'm having a problem with my car, the good old GM Goodwrench service bay will the first place I call. Thanks for setting me straight!

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Is this why any time I've taken my car to a shop, it comes back with more problems than what it came out with? Or, could this be why my friend's GTP has been in the shop 4 consecutive times for the steering rack bearing recall that didn't give us any problems UNTIL he took it in to FIX the recall? Perhaps it could also be why I've been told by numerous GM "mechanics" that my 3400's valve knock/tap is normal and that I shouldn't worry about it, when it's obviously a major issue considering it's at 76,000 miles and burns oil worse than my 190k mile 3.1 did? Maybe it's also why my Grand Prix came back from the shop once and the tensoner pulley bolt came out, leaving my mom stranded on the side of the interstate because, and get this, they didn't torque the bolt enough. WHAT A CONCEPT!

 

I gotta say, you guys are WAY smarter than I'll ever be, and I really think the next time I'm having a problem with my car, the good old GM Goodwrench service bay will the first place I call. Thanks for setting me straight!

 

No No No youv'e got this wrong the knock/tap is normal for that mileage

when the cars been bagged for it's intire life. I thought you knew everything about your car, why is a "GM" dealer looking at it anyways???Sorry for stranding your mother on the side of the road like that, but thats the only way I could get you away from her so I could move in. :wink:

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Where'd you pull that out of? The service manual doesn't even recommend to replace head bolts (but I did it anyway).

 

The sevice manual does say to replace head bolts, does "torque to yeild"

ring any bells?

 

Were do you get "replace" from the words "torque to yield"? I personally replace them, but the Service Manual definitely does not recommend nor even mention replacing them unless they're bad.

 

From Section 6A5-30 of my 1991 Service Manual, it says:

 

Clean

...

- Cylinder head bolts

 

Under section 6A5-32, it says:

 

Inspect

1. Cylinder head bolts for damaged threads or stretching...

Important

- Suspect bolts must be replaced.

 

Nowhere after that does it say, "Now dispose of old head bolts and replace with new ones. Hahah, made you clean and inspect them for nothing!"

 

I know mechanics don't torque hardly anything, and it's because they're in a hurry with a job to do. They couldn't care less about being precise or accurate, it's all about getting as much done in the shortest amount of time possible. If that's how you do stuff on your own ride, that's fine with me, but that's not quality work.

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Is this why any time I've taken my car to a shop, it comes back with more problems than what it came out with? Or, could this be why my friend's GTP has been in the shop 4 consecutive times for the steering rack bearing recall that didn't give us any problems UNTIL he took it in to FIX the recall? Perhaps it could also be why I've been told by numerous GM "mechanics" that my 3400's valve knock/tap is normal and that I shouldn't worry about it, when it's obviously a major issue considering it's at 76,000 miles and burns oil worse than my 190k mile 3.1 did? Maybe it's also why my Grand Prix came back from the shop once and the tensoner pulley bolt came out, leaving my mom stranded on the side of the interstate because, and get this, they didn't torque the bolt enough. WHAT A CONCEPT!

 

I gotta say, you guys are WAY smarter than I'll ever be, and I really think the next time I'm having a problem with my car, the good old GM Goodwrench service bay will the first place I call. Thanks for setting me straight!

 

No No No youv'e got this wrong the knock/tap is normal for that mileage

when the cars been bagged for it's intire life. I thought you knew everything about your car, why is a "GM" dealer looking at it anyways???Sorry for stranding your mother on the side of the road like that, but thats the only way I could get you away from her so I could move in. :wink:

First off, the oil was changed in the van every 4,000 miles with Mobil 1. Second of all, it's my mom's car, so I have no control over what she wants to do with it. And, I'm glad to see you like to bang old chicks. You and Ross should hang out some time.

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